Siezed exhaust manifold bolts

Hi Sounds like your distrbutor is siezed to the block. Try spraying some rust inhititor on it. If you can get it to mover work it back and forth until it loosens up. Keep adding lube and then it wil free up and you can replace it.

Exhaust is one of the hardest things to replace without breaking bolts So the 1 st and up most thing is lubrication get a good penetrating oil liquid wrench,WD40,LPS whatever your parts guy suggests buy the large can now spray ever bolt you can see even the exhaust pipe flange nuts run until hot spray again let cool down over night spray again now you are ready to try to get the bolts out. place a socket with a ratchet 3/8 the handle should be at least 8 inches just slowly pull in a counter clock wise motion until you have reached about 45 lbs torque if bolt has not moved then stop try to tighten bolt a little then repeat on the real stubborn one use a long round steel rod go thru fender well and hit the bolt head really hard this will shock the threads to allow easier removal after all are removed then throw all those bolts away and install new ones with the new manifold and gasket..

Alot depends on where you live. Here in the southern states, I don't have many problems with bolts on these year model truck. I did head gaskets on a 2000 F150 from Ohio, and had to cut every exhaust stud. If your not in the rust belt, you should be fine. I recomend pulling the front weel and fenderwell liner to get to the manifold. It's the only good way to get to them.

would help if knew what model and year this vehicle was or is ,have you tried to put engine oil on the bolts as this works better than any spray stuff

May not need to totally remove the manifold. Use a spray lub (I use Movit) and spray the exhaust bolts liberally on cooled down engine. Let sit for an hour or more (or follow instructions on can) Then use 6 point sockets on the bolts and rock back and forth to remove. Once all of the bolts are out you should be able the move the manifold back far enogh to expose the frost plug. When you put the exhaust back on - be sure and use anti-seaze on the bolts along with your new gaskets. Get all of the bolts started before you torque them to spec.

there are rubber mounting underneath the car, remove there.

follow the exhaust pipe to the engine, loosening any bolts and nuts holding the exhaust in place.

the exhaust pipe meets the exhaust manifold close to the engine. loosen it there and replace,

the part remaining on the engine (also a much thicker pipe than the pipe) is the exhaust manifold. this must the loosened at the engine itself. normally two nuts per cylinder and your car being 4 cylinder its 8 nuts.

There nuts can be dreadfully tight though, it gets hot there so the expansion and cooling of of the studs and nuts tend to make them tighter over time

Crawl underneath with a lubricant like WD-40 and spray the heck out of the shifter rod where it attaches to transfer case, and work it back and forth, spray again. This worked on my last 2 Fords, made a big difference.

Need to R&Rand put splash flaps in the fender wells.

Whatever it takes, but make sure you soak some penetrating oil oi wd40 on others to avoid any more being broken. Pulling the manifold is the safest and quickest way. With it out of the way, you'll have someting on the broken bots, now studs to work with. Always drill a broken stud or bolt clean through. Penetrating oil can work from both ends and a broken easy out can be driven in far enough to work arounf -Good Luck, force nothing, Tap stud and apply only stesdy even presure when extracting.

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