Question about 1986 Nissan Stanza

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My Headlights assbly on both left and right are very hard to find

I currently own 1986 Nissan Stanza Wagon 2.0. I cannot pass inpection for the simple fact that both headlight are rusted and very old. I need to ask you if you know someone that carries this headlight for the "wagon" not the car model, because they are different in shape and size, I will sincerely appreciate the help, thank you very much.

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  • Anonymous Apr 12, 2009

    Definitely have the same problem with trying to replace 1986 Nissan Staza WAGON headlight. I have a headlight that leaks and although I replace the bulb, there is hardly any light coming thru. The drive side is still good. You might find some at the carwreckers, but most people are still driving their 1986-87 Nissan WAGONS because they never give up. Mine has over 300,000 miles on it. The only other chance is to find someone who owns a junk car in their driveway and would sell you the headlight



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I had a quick look on ebay and craigslist and nothing. I would suggest the auto wreckers, but even if they had them, they would likely be shot as well. If you are desperate and so inclined, you could buy some standard sealed beams for a 2 lamp system, fabricate some mounts and surrounding trim and replace the existing units. Even if you did this temporarily until you found the right ones, the inspector must pass them if they are at the right height and aimed properly. They don't have to be pretty, they just have to work and have no sharp edges exposed incase you hit somebody. Not kidding about that either.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • paul knisely May 20, 2011

    With composite headlights, the ones where you screw in the bulb, you must open up the housing. Hopefully you have a glass front to the headlight - plastic will not do.
    The 'bucket' must be metal to tolerate the separating method proceeded to now.
    To Get Into the bucket that invriably rusts to nothingness, you remove anything that will melt, and then place the bucket/glass item in the oven at 450* for two hours......
    You want to 'fail' the mastic glue that is preventing you from separating the glass & steel from each other. Once the alarm goes off at 2 hours, turn off the oven and let cool for 2 hours. CAUTION: EXPOSING THE GLASS TO A COOL BREEZE WILL CRACK IT INTO A BILLION PIECES (as my first attempt).
    Once cooled, the metal bucket can be brought to your local Hi-School where a Glovebox (sandblaster) is used to remove ALL rust (bribe the Teacher with a jar of honey). Then just prime the interior of the bucket with Black Krylon Primer, and then use the Chrome-Spray paint from another rattle-can so it will really reflect light. Avoid the area where the glass goes, that has to be primer. I use a two-part JB WELD to attach the glass to the bucket, and close ALL rusty holes, weep holes, and to replace the bulb spigot that may need to be reset.
    My specimen was from a 1986 Nissan Stanza Wagon, National listings started at $100 for
    used - expecting the same problem - sooner or later - so repaired for $8.00 and time.


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I see that it is a wagon, but, is it a GL...XE?

Posted on Mar 13, 2009



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I am trying to replace the starter in my 86 nissan stanza but cant see it

NISSAN STANZA WAGON - Manual Transmission

Q. Where is the starter on a 1986 nissan stanza station wagon and how do you get to it ?

Due to limited access to the starter, it is recommended that the transaxle be removed when servicing the starter.


1. Cold vehicle.

Remove 2 mounting bracket bolts, 10 & 12 mm (Figure 1).

Remove top starter motor bolt 14 mm with universal & long extensions.

Raise vehicle on hoist.

Remove front splash pans 10 mm.

Automatic transmission: Drain 2 qts out.

Remove rt-ft wheel 21 mm., & tie rod (Figure 3), axle cap, cotter pin, adj-nut & rubber washer.

Remove ball joint nuts 17 mm., left lower control arm 19mm. & swaybar bracket 14 mm. (Fig 2).

Remove axle nut 36mm (Figure 4), the front tube, catalytic converter heat insulators 10mm, ctr ex-tube 17 mm., and front tube from exhaust system (Figure 5).

Remove long bolt from ft engine mount (next to radiator), 17mm socket (Figure 6, Item A).

Remove tension rod mount 14 mm. Has adj-bracket with rubber insulators (Fig 6, Items B, C).

Remove right side drive shaft bolts that hold shaft to bracket mounted on engine (Fig7) 12mm.

Remove rt-driveshaft.

CAUTION: Transaxle side seals are cut by spline teeth.

Install hoist type transmission jack and wooden block under the transmission/engine. Be certain the transmission is safely balanced on the hoist.

Remove 5 engine crossmember mounts (3 bolts, 2 nuts) 14mm.

Remove nut that attaches crossmember to engine mount.

Loosen stabilizer bar mounts to allow adequate clearance for crossmember to be removed.

Remove following brackets to allow starter assembly to pass through bottom:

tubular support bracket - engine to transaxle

angled support bracket - driveshaft bracket to engine mount

manifold collector stay - (bottom bolts)

Loosen top bolts, remove bracket above driveshaft-holding bracket 14mm.

NOTE: This bracket is slotted to allow it to slide out without completely removing the bolts.

Remove bottom starter motor mounting bolt.

Separate starter assembly from bellhousing, DC all cables/connectors, remove starter motor.

When installing starter, connect cable, install/torque starter bolts.

Nov 03, 2010 | 1986 Nissan Stanza

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I need rear struts for a 1986 Nissan Stanza wagon 4x, anyone know where I can purchase these?

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I need the number on the computer (ECU) nissan Stanza 87 SW, STD,FWD

Hi... On your question For ECM to 1987 Nissan Stanza..
Are 6 Available number .
2 are for vehicles 4WD. Incl. wagon. Calif emissions. 2261A-20R66RE,
with out calif, 2261A-20R06RE,

2 For vehicles FWD Wagons only. Calif emissions, 2261A-20R75RE,
With out Calif emissions, 2261A-20R15RE.

2 For vehicles Sedans FWD Exc Wagon. Calif emissions, 2261A-D5507RE,
With out calif emissions, 2261A-D4507RE,

NOTE , " RE" Mean Remanufactured ECM. Is not available new.

Ok.. Are the number I have Based on Mitchell ondemand, Repair Software.

I hope this info help on your question.
Any more questions let me know...

Nov 07, 2008 | 1987 Nissan Stanza

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Could be the clutch is wearing down.If it's in ALL gears,it is likely the clutch.If i remember correctly,your car has a hydraulically activated clutch.If this is the case,under the dash,where the clutch pedal attaches to the clutch master cylinder,there is a jam nut,either 12mm or 14 mm wrench,loosen the jamnut,and spin the threded rod in,towards the clutch pedal,and away from the firewall.This should make your clutch pedal engagement point closer to the floor,and easier to shift.

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