Engine power loss

no VIN 8th digit told.(engine)
well; if a tune up fails (spark plugs) and Spark COP boots.
then check fuel pressure by the book.
bogs under load,
stalls means engine stop spinning as in zero RPM./
loss of power or bogging , and not violent loss, means mostly fuel supply is weak. or low injector rail pressure found
a shop has the tool to do that, why not put them in the loop>?

ever get a full tune up in 15 years.
lost power is 99% of time just that, not doing service on car.
and is very common,.... so....did you?
spark parts and filters?
lost power can be misfiring or bogging,
misfire is violent and spark.
bogging (smooth) is loss of fueling.
stalling is same
if you cant save the stall with a fast right foot, it is usually loss of fueling.
say, bad fuel, out of fuel, wrong fuel (diesel)
or filter clogged, low fuel pressure. (forget EPS)
fix engine.
unless transmission was slipping what it, RPM rises car fails to move faster, that be SLIP.

If the engine bogs on accel it is usually a fuel delivery issue. Does the vehicle run smoothly at idle? Is the check engine light on?

what engine, 16valves, or 8valves. silver top or black?
MPI or TBI engine. they sold both and are vastly different.
hums dont mean a thing, only that the pump can make noise.
pressure rules (and flow #1)
ive personally fixed every fail possible on these, stalls.
owned many and fixed more. (own 3 and restored them to 100% )
unfortunately this older car is not OBD2 level ECU/PCM.
so no scan tools work.
Ever give it a tune up.? at the 60k mile interval.? repeats?
1: spare parts, both filters. and timing belt?
2: EGR ,main loves to stick open if it does engine will stall.
starts fine , yes
does engine get to 180F coolant temp and hold? if not fix that first.
is engine idle at 800RPM, hot? y/n? if yes, EGR is not stuck open.
if lower, EGR stuck. or other probs.
not knowing which engine makes answers hard, and only generic.
not knowing the transmission option too, makes it hard. 3,4,5speed.?
the 3sp can have vacuum leaks that can be real bad for the 16v engine, see? see how the work together? or not?
3: bad TPS.
stalling happens for 2 reasons (not counting bad engine)
the ECU (engine EFI brain, puter. etc) does all it can to stop stalls
it has 2 slaves to do that. one is ISC other is spark timing.
when stalls happens this is a warning that the ISC is bad,
or is overloaded.
A: MISFIRE. Gross.( 50 reasons, but can be to rich or just needs a tuneup.)
B: bogging . Gross (too lean, or called fuel starvation)
my questions.
does hot idle run at 800 all the time. RPM.
does engine have full power on hills.
does engine stall coming up to traffic stops (EGR malf)
does the lost power. recover, with just holding throttle down? only?
can you tell the difference from bog and misfire.
bog is lack of power, its smooth
misfire is violent, it shacks the motor. does it?
when you pump the throttle, this engages ENRICH mode
in the ECU , and overrides lean,.
my guess, (cant drive it and if could , i can tell whats going on)
but based on your inputs, it say its lean.
if power is low on hills, i then.
grab my fuel pressure gauge. $20
i do this at every fuel filter change, since im THERE already
it has a test port, a 6mm plug.
i take this hose and check for 30psi,
see why guess here.
34 to 36PSI, key on, 3 times, (both engines, not stated, so..)
see the tool here,for next to nothing. costs.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html

the EFI totally can no work at 20 PSI or hums.
it must be at leas 34psi.
below 28 the injectors fail. (read injector spec, and see that)
if the pressure is good there is hope.

post engine type, 4 injectors or 1.
and can go way deeper and more accurate.

bogging is here
http://www.fixkick.com/power-index.html

Here are the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle, it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and/or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving

hi i have a 80 series 4.2 diesel wagon, i went 4x4 and got bogged in this mud hole/puddle for a while, i drove back and fourth until i got out, but while i was trying to get out it stalled, it started easy straight after it happened and it drove great for a few hours after then all of a sudden it lost power and stalls if you don't give it any throttle but it idles fine, I'm not sure what it could be?

The ignition timing is not advancing at higher rpm.

That is the job of the ECM (Electronic control module).

Inspect / replace the ECM.

The CAMshaft position sensor is faulty.

Hi,
The air cleaner mighty be clogged causing insufficient air supply. That is why it runs fine on idle because less air is needed and when the engine demands for more air, there isn't enough.

Your timing belt could be broken. You want to have this checked as soon as possible to prevent any further engine problems.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_62314e5b2470e8b5