Question about 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Loud hard clunking after replacing front drive shaft

Drove without my front drive shaft in for approx. 1000miles(I know...foolish. But I was on the road alone traveling with no spare money.) parked the vehicle and found the right bolts for the front shaft. Immediately had a loud hard knock, especially when accelerating or going uphill. Not sure if its a viscous couple or the torque converter. Not a mechanic myself just got opinions from friends(who aren't mechanics either.) need some help in finding what it may be. Its a 95 grand Cherokee 5.2 with all time 4wd. Any thoughts would be great

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  • andy snod Apr 24, 2013

    so im finding after research that it is most lokely the viscous coupler in the transfer case. so now im trying to find a 249 tc instead of swapping out. dont do alot of offroading with this jeep...but i do get lots of snow and friends that need a trailer or help moving. any suggestions on where to get a reliable new 249tc and what a good price would be?

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  • Jeep Master
  • 1,449 Answers

It may be you need to take it out again .and grease the spline and refit it .check it by turning the hub to check it is ok.

Posted on Dec 23, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 512 Answers

SOURCE: Head Bolt Torque for a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L

the torque is a 4 step process

1 torque all bolts to 22 ft/lbs
2 torque all bolts to 45 ft/lbs
3 recheck all bolts to 45 ft/lbs
4 torque bolts 1 thru 10 to 110 ft/lbs
bolt 11 to 100 ft/lbs
bolts 12 thru 14 to 110 ft/lbs
bolt #1 is the fourth bolt from the front on the passenger side....#2 is the fourth bolt on the drivers side then you continue in a clockwise order

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 4wd Grand Cherokee has grinding noise in front

From what you said, it sounds like the viscous coupling inside your transfer case failed. However, first, you need to get the vehicle on a lift and identify the source of the grinding, as there are multiple items in the driveline that can grind.
Stores like JL are a good starting point for aspiring technicians but the good ones quickly move on to better positions with dealers and independent shops. Therefore in my opinion, you always run the risk of having "Joe" who tomorrow will be flipping hamburgers, working on your expensive vehicle. This applies to Wally World and all other variations of these quick oil change places as well. You are far better served by doing as much of this work yourself (you care about your vehicle).
As far as Jeep VS other vehicle choices, the primary reason for breakdowns I see with all vehicles, not just Jeep are caused by "over-engineering" and the constant urge to continually change what works to "new" improved? systems that are far more unreliable and difficult to diagnose/repair than anything they replace. If you read through the numerous posts you will see exactly what I'm talking about. Best example is : why did they decide to replace the $3.00 flasher that operates your directionals with a "module"? It is far more prone to not only failure but strange failures that no one ever saw before!!! So, it's not just Jeep, it's everyone! But then, perhaps I'm nutty!
Have your Jeep checked over carefully by a good reliable shop and isolate the source of the noise. If the JL shop did not fill what they serviced, notify them right away. It is possible though that whatever failed just happened to fail, and would have regardless of service.
Good luck with it and hope it is not an expensive repair!!!

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 77202 Answers

SOURCE: If the viscous disk is bad on a 1999 Jeep Grand

viscous disk?, 40 years as a tech and still not sure what you are refering to, please explain the symptoms you have and where this part is located and what it does, thanks.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you so much! "

  • 46 Answers

SOURCE: Front drive shaft on Jeep Grand Cherokee

yes but make sure you don't in gauge the front axle

Posted on May 19, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1996 Jeep

This problem is called Death Wobble...



I found some Jeep enthusiasts here locally that had done a lot of coil spring conversions on Wranglers and on Cherokees. They said they have had Death Wobble on the Cherokees almost every time they did a coil spring conversion. The reason they discovered for the Death Wobble is that the drag link on Wranglers comes from the pitman arm down to the left front hub and then from the left front hub straight over to the right front hub. This is a strong link geometrically. Unfortunately on the Grand Cherokee's and Cherokee's they used a different link system... the drag link drops from the pitman arm straight down to the front left hub, but instead of the second arm attaching at the left hub and going to the right hub they attached the second arm in the middle of the first arm so you have this triangular type figure created. The problem with this setup is when you start lifting the Jeep with a Budget Boost the front axle is pushed down and since the trailing arms arent replaced the axle is actually pushed backwards. This change to the axle position changes the geometry of the actual steering setup and starts allowing for more and more play. This is why it seems that GC's with budget boosts are more susceptible to DW. This is also the reason why guys with taller lifts will many times never see DW on their Jeeps. If you get taller lifts that come with drop pitman arms then many times you wont have DW because you have returned the geometry on the drag link back to an angle that will not allow for very much play in the steering.

Other reasons that DW can be formed are:
- The Steering Stabilizer is shot and causes the steering not to be tight enough
- The Track Bar is bent which allows for a little bit of movement in the axle
- The tires are warped or the alignment is messed up
- There are some bushings on the front end somewhere that is allowing for some play.

**The things listed above can happen with or without lifting the vehicle. **

Now for some Solutions:
Everyone should start with the steering stabilizer I would say. It is only around $60 bucks for a good one from Rancho or Old Man Emu. If that does not cure the problem then I would IMMEDIATELY go to an Offroad Equipment shop. Walk into the shop and point at your vehicle and say Death Wobble. If they start laughing and know exactly what you mean then you are at the right place if they look confused and don't have a clue then you are in the wrong place. Once you find a shop that knows what Death Wobble is then you need to talk to them and they will tell you a lot of what I have told you here. Then ask them where they have taken their trucks to get aligned after they are lifted. Most alignment shops don't have a clue except for "factory specs"... if you can find a shop that knows how suspension really works then they know all the tricks for maxing out every centimeter to get your vehicle fully aligned. Normally the alignment shops that do the alignments for offroad shops will know exactly what DW is and be able to check everything for you. Many times... find the problem.

Now as far as specifics go... if you have a 2" budget boost then you need to make sure they roll the caster back to around -6.00 to -9.00. Since your axle has been pushed down and slightly backwards then you need to get it pushed forwards at least as far as the factory position or even further forward. This should be possible with a 2" budget boost, but if you have something taller then you might need even more caster. Anyways... a good alignment shop should be able to tell this... a lot of "normal" alignment shops just try and move it back to the factory spec when you are going to need more than that to compensate for the lift.

Basically... if you have DW, it can be fixed. It is normally a combination of several of the things I mentioned. My particular problem was the Track Bar, Tires, and Alignment problems because of my budget boost. I did buy Kevin's Track Bar Conversion which was great and did add some stability, but was not my total solution in the end. I also bought a OME steering stabilizer which helped make the steering tighter but did not solve the problem either.

The key is to find a shop that knows suspension and knows what DW is. From there... you WILL find a solution.

P.S. I know it is long, but hopefully it helps. There might be more info from other people's experience to add here, but this is what I have discovered in my journey towards Death Wobble Recovery.

Posted on Sep 06, 2011

Testimonial: "Thank you so much! My mechanic had no clue. Much appreciated!!! ~ Jan"

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