I pulled a spark plug wire when engine was running, and engine balked and died. Later, when checking spark at coil wire I found that ONE spark, and one only, would occur when beginning to turn engine over. No more spark after than. This happened whenever I turned off the key and tried again to start. Cause??
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
Re: 1997 Prelude ignition
You probbably damaged the distributor coil when you pulled the wire off recommendations: try pulling battery lose for few and see if it helps replace distibutor coil and wires to plugs and replace plugs
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
What engine ? 3.1 , 3.4 , 3.8 L When it dies check for spark at coil pack . Pull the two plug wires off of the same coil and crank it over , is there spark ? If not , could be the ignition control module , or crankshaft position sensor . Videos on youtube !
Definition: Engine cranks OK, but does not start for a long time. Does eventually run, or may start but immediately dies.
• Refer to the Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check .
• Refer to Important Preliminary Checks .
• Refer to Visual/Physical Checks .
• Search for bulletins.
• Check Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor for being shifted in value. Connect a Scan Tool and compare the Engine Coolant Temperature with the Intake Air Temperature on a cold engine. The ECT and IAT should be within ± 3°C (5°F) of each other. Check the resistance of the ECT sensor if the temperature is out of range with the IAT sensor. Refer to Temperature vs Resistance . If the ECT sensor resistance is not within the specification, refer to DTC P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage or DTC P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage .
• Check the throttle body inlet screen for foreign objects or damage that may affect the MAF sensor airflow sample. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly Replacement .
• Use a scan tool in order to check the IAC operation. Refer to Idle Air Control (IAC) System Check .
• EGR system. Check the for the following conditions:
- EGR pipes and adapter for vacuum leaks.
- Remove the EGR valve and check for a stuck open pintle. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Replacement .
• Check the fuel pump relay circuit for proper operation. Refer to Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis .
• Check for incorrect fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Pressure Test .
• Check the fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel Injector Solenoid Coil Test .
• Check for fuel contamination. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Test .
• Check for proper ignition voltage output by using the following steps:
- Clip the spark tester J 26792 to engine ground.
- Connect one end of a spark plug wire to the spark tester while leaving the other end of the spark plug wire to the coil being tested.
- Connect one end of another spark plug wire to the other coil tower.
- Connect the other end of the spark plug wire to ground.
- Crank the engine while observing the spark tester. A crisp blue spark should be observed.
- Repeat the above steps for each coil.
• If an adequate spark is not present at the coil(s), check for the following conditions:
- Coil(s) - Cracks, carbon tracking/arcing, or a resistance value outside the specified range.
5000 - 8000 ohms (5K - 8K ohms)
- Spark Plug wires
• signs of arcing/cross
• carbon tracking
• plug boot damage
• pinched or improper routing
• high resistance
- Spark plug wire resistances should measure less than the specified value.
VIN 1 Spark Plug Wire Resistance
7000 ohms (7K ohms).
VIN K Spark Plug Wires Resistance
10000 ohms (10K ohms).
Important: Spraying the secondary ignition wires with a light mist of water may help locate an intermittent problem. Ignition components will arc to ground when a secondary component is malfunctioning.
- Defective module.
- Ignition System Wiring - Loose ignition module feed or ground connection, or damaged system wiring.
• Remove spark plugs and check for the following conditions:
- Fouled plugs
- Improper gap
- Burned or damaged electrodes
- Improper heat range or reach
• If spark plugs are gas or oil fouled, the cause of the fouling must be determined before replacing the spark plugs.
• Excessive oil in combustion chamber-Leaking valve seals. Refer to Engine Mechanical.
• Low cylinder compression. Refer to Engine Mechanical.
• For incorrect basic engine parts. Inspect the following:
- Cylinder heads
- Camshaft and valve train components
- Pistons, etc.
- Refer to Engine Mechanical.
When moisture gets inside something it shorts it out . Take a spray bottle an spray ignition coils an see if it dies . For that matter spray the whole engine , fuse box etc... If it dies see what's missing , spark more then likely . Do you know how to do that ? Pull a plug wire off the coils an hold it near the coil tower an see if spark jumps the gap . What engine does yours have ? V-8 V-6
Sounds like a bad distributor. Had you pulled a spark plug out you may have found them wet with gas after cranking. If they are wet the crank sensor is working since both injector pulse and coil pulse rely on crank signal.
The distributors are known week points in the ignition system and used to be common when theses cars where still on the road. A reman will run you $250 U.S.
An ignition coil is more than likely your problem. When the car is not running pull one spark plug wire and a plug and insert plug into the wire hold plug end on ground area. Have someone crank engine and check for spark. If no spark, replace ignition coil.
Locate the ignition coils - they are mounted on the ignition module. Remove the wide connector that goes to the module. You will have to unscrew it first. Spray some WD40 on the connector pins and try to scrub them with a tip of a small screwdriver. Be delicate not to brake or bend anything. Reconnect the connector. Start the engine and see if it still misses.
If it still does, try to touch/move each of the wires that go to the ignition module. BE VERY CAREFUL not to touch any of the moving parts of the engine as you have to do it with engine running.
If it still misses, do the following.
1. Engine off
2. Mark the ignition wires so that you reconnect them later in the same order
3. Locate the coil which gives spark for cyl 1
4. Switch locations of this coil with any of the two remaining coils
5. Reconnect the wires
6. Start the engine
If it now misses on another cylinder, you will have to buy a new coil.
Those Chrysler engines in the late 80's and early 90's relied on a hall- effect coil located in the distributor and had alot of problems with them. What I would do first is, remove the coil wire at the coil an the dist. check the coil and dist. cap where the wire goes in and look for burning or cracks. If that is OK I would be inclined to think the hall-effect coil is bad.
I just did one the other day. There are three coils. You can determine which one is bad by using the number one spark plug wire and an old spark plug. Put the spark plug in the wire ( while it is still in the coil) and ground the plug against the engine block. Make sure it is grounded solidly to metal or you could get a nasty shock. Have someone start the engine. Look at the spark. It should be fat and blue. Turn the engine off as soon as you have seen the quality of the spark. Pull one of the wires from each coil in sequence and move the number one wire to that coil. Proceed as above. The weak coil(s) will have intermittent spark, yellow spark or maybe none at all. Once you know which coil(s) are bad remove the two small screws at the ends of the coil. They hold the coil down. Pick the coil straight up, pulling the contacts out of the ignition module. Set the new coil in place and screw it down. Both towers spark every time the coil fires so reinstall the wires in either spot on a given coil. Good Luck
Find out which cylinder is missfiring by using an inductive timing light to check each plug wire for spark. If you find a dead wire you should replace the all the wires and spark plugs. If you don't find a dead wire check the distributor cap. You could have a broken contact or a crack which might cause a loss of spark at one cylinder.
Honda wires are much better than their aftermarket counterparts so don't skimp there.
What are you wondering is correct.
Let check the coil first. if coil is good the there is a problem with the ignition module. If the ignition module is good then a problem with the crankshaft sensor.
The coil can be checked by measure resistance of the terminals of the primary coil and secondary coil separately to see if it open.
To check if it can generate a spark, once you identify the primary coil terminal, run 12 V wire to these terminal, connect a spark plug to the secondary coil, by just leaving a spark plug with connected with spark plug wire and let it touch the engine chassis. Now you have to make pulses at the 12 volts connection by making a break and connection several time to turn it on and off to generate the spark at spark plug. The ignition module is supposed to do what you are doing now to generate the spark. If it is bad, it can't do what you did then a spark is not generated.
For the crankshaft sensor, only the shop can tell you it is bad or not. Good luck.