Question about 2003 BMW 325

9 Answers

My 2003 BMW 325i's central locking system doesn'y work

The key fob does not unlock the doors or open the trunk and the button on the center console doesn't unlock or lock the doors either. The trunk button works and the only way to unlock/lock the doors is to put the key in the door lock and turn. Please help me

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  • ckoperna Mar 13, 2009

    The battery in the fob is fine. I assumed I would need to check the wiring I was hoping you would tell me how to check the wiring. Like how to remove the console or something not so vague as check the wiring.

  • ckoperna Mar 13, 2009

    The battery in the fob is fine. I assumed I would need to check the wiring I was hoping you would tell me how to check the wiring. Like how to remove the console or something not so vague as check the wiring.

  • ckoperna Mar 13, 2009

    just replaced fuses yesterday. They are all correct and brand new. What do you mean by jammed up?

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9 Answers

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Your power lock relay has failed.
Consult your owners manual for the location in the fuse panel.
Thanks for using FixYa.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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I think it is due to wearing of the internal part of the door mechanism. The handle on the inside of the door will open it.  remove the door inside panel and  you can see the mechanism and you  can figure out how to remove it . The window slide rail is in the way. The mechanism is connected with four linkages, the top lock plunger, the door handle rod, the door key rod and the solenoid that actuates the whole thing. The solenoid is pulling but it can't pull hard enough to overcome what is worn. The key also does not overcome it. The door handle will.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Hey,

Read a part of the article to have a clear concept of central locking

E30 Central Locking Operation
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

The following description is based on the 1990 325 iX Electrical
Troubleshooting Manual (ETM). It probably works the same way on related
models, but I make no representation of the range of applicability. If you
find it does not to apply to your E30, please contact me via e-mail at
with particulars.

A Macintosh PICT file of the CLCU and basic wiring is available that can
help make sense of the following descriptions. If you can receive MIME
attachments and want the diagram, let me know.

Caveats:
^^^^^^^^

- Terms are those used in the ETM, except "unlock inhibit" has been
replaced by double-lock". Don't confuse "key lock" with "door lock" or
door latch.

- The ETM does not describe what goes on in the central lock control unit,
so I cannot infer the exact voltage level required to assert a function,
input impedances, or other electronic behavior such as output durations,
etc. The double-locking function likewise cannot be determined exactly
from the ETM, but it can be deduced.

- The manner in which the motors, cylinder locks, door latches, locking
mechanisms, and linkages operate may not be adequately depicted in the ETM.
Further, I have made no effort to verify the ETM's depictions.

Terminology:
^^^^^^^^^^^^

CLCU: Central Locking Control Unit - the electromechanical assembly,
behind the speaker in the driver's kick panel, that accepts electrical
inputs to lock, unlock, and double-lock the doors, and that contains the
lock and unlock relays and the impact switch.

Door lock motor: operates the door lock, the mechanism that prevents the
outer door handle from opening the door.

Double-lock motor: a motor that operates the (unlock inhibit) mechanism,
which prevents the door lock button from being raised. This mechanically
prevent doors unlocking. The driver's door does not contain a double-lock
motor, according to the ETM.

Key lock: the key-operated cylinder lock that mechanically operates the
door lock and other electrical switches.

"Unlock inhibit": the ETM term for the double-lock function.

General:
^^^^^^^^

- The rotation of each door or trunk key lock does two things:
operates mechanically on the lock for that door (or trunk), and operates
one or two switches that ground one of three "inputs" on the CLCU: Lock
Request ("lock"), Unlock Request ("unlock"), and Unlock Inhibit Request
("double-lock") .

- Not all key locks switches can operate all input functions. For
example, the passenger's door and truck key locks do not operate the
double-lock function.

- Certain functions are mechanically prevented. For example, if the
double-lock feature is engaged, the passenger's door key lock (on a '91 iX)
will not mechanically operate, and, therefore, cannot issue the unlock
command to the CLCU.

- The lock (CLCU pins 7 or 8), unlock (CLCU pins 6 or 9), and
double-lock input (CLCU pin10) are switched to ground to activate each
function.

- Locking and unlocking apply voltage (of opposite polarity) momentarily to
the door lock motors. This is accomplished using two "1 pole, 2 throw"
relays in the Central Locking Control Unit, labelled "lock" and "unlock".
The common contacts of these relays (CLCU pins 1 and 2, respectively) are
connected to opposite sides of the door lock motors. (The lock relay
common, in addition, connects to one side of the double-lock motors.) The
normally closed (NC) contacts of both relays go to ground (via CLCU pin 4),
and the normally open (NO) contacts both go to +12 v (via CLCU pin 3).
When either relay is energized, 12 v is applied through the NO contact to
one side of the motor while the other side of the motor is grounded through
the unenergized relay's NC contact. Only one relay is actuated at a time.

- The polarity of the double-lock motor voltage is reversed with two
diodes. One side of the double-lock motors is connected to the "lock"
relay common (CLCU pin 1); the other side of these motors connects to CLCU
pin 11. One diode, conducting from pin 11 to pin 10, provides the ground
return for double-lock motors when pin 10 - the unlock inhibit
(double-lock) input - is grounded. Another diode, conducting from the
unlock relay common (CLCU pin 2) to pin 11, supplies 12 v to pin 11 when
the unlock relay is actuated. This applies a reverse polarity voltage to
all motors - lock and double-lock - with the (unactuated) lock relay
common providing the return to ground via its NC contact. If you've
followed along, notice that if the unlock function is operated while the
unlock inhibit microswitch is also operated, it will produce a short
circuit from +12 v to ground through the aforementioned diodes, surely
destroying them. This may be the source of several cautions, both in the
ETM and in the factory repair manual, about not connecting power to the
CLCU "if the unit is not properly positioned"; see CAUTION, below.

LOCK:
^^^^^

When any door or trunk key lock is rotated (45 degrees for the driver's
door), it operates a switch that grounds the "lock" input of the CLCU.
This momentarily energizes the "lock" relay in the CLCU, applying +12 v
(via CLCU pin 1) to one side of all door lock motors which are grounded as
described above, and also to one side of the double-lock motors, which
don't operate, as they lack a ground return path at this time.

DOUBLE-LOCK:
^^^^^^^^^^^^

When the driver's door lock key (only!) is turned to 90 degrees, it
operates the "unlock inhibit" microswitch, which directly grounds the
"unlock inhibit request input", CLCU pin 10. This operates the lock relay
and simultaneously provides a path to ground for the double-lock motors via
the diode from pin 11 to pin 10. Consequently, the double-lock motors
operate, and the door lock motors operate again.

UNLOCK:
^^^^^^^

Unlocking any door or the trunk operates a contact that grounds the unlock
request input. If the car was double-locked, the passengers' door key is
physically prevented from rotating, which prevents unlocking. The drivers'
door and trunk locks can be operated, however. When the unlock request
input is grounded, the "unlock" relay momentarily applies 12 v (of opposite
polarity, as described above) to the door lock motors, and, through a
second steering diode, to the double-lock motors as well. The double-lock
and door lock motors are grounded through the "lock" relay NC contact.
(Apparently the double lock mechanism unlatches quickly enough to allow the
door lock motors to do their job!)

CAUTION:
^^^^^^^^

A key point (pun intended!) is that if the "unlock" relay is operated when
the double-lock microswitch is also operated (grounded), it will damage the
two steering diodes in the control unit. Normally this can't happen - it
would require two keys to be used simultaneously, one unlocking while the
other double-locks. However, it could happen accidentally during system
diagnostics. For example, suppose the normally-open inertia switch (which
operates an "automatic unlock request function") has been unintentionally
closed when the CLCU is removed for inspection. If power is restored to
the CLCU as the driver's door key lock is rotated 90 degrees, pfffttt!
Smoke!

Now,

sit in the car. Press the lock manually. the car would be locked. Again push that button up to open the lock. Looks funny but works like anything.

After repeating the same for 4 to 5 times, try using central locking key.I hope you would be able to resolve the issue,

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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  • 412 Answers

Contact to your car dealer for that problem.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Hi

Have you taken a look at the fuse panel in the passenger compartment? There is also a relay box under hood. It will be a black box that you will need to remove the cover of and will allow you to check the relays. I don't have a wiring diagram for this car buy if you purchase a Haynes Manual, it will have the wiring diagram for all electrical components that make up the locking system.

Benjamin

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Hello!                                                                                                  Your door locks and trunk locks are electrical solenoids, so since they work by manual means, it sounds like the reciever for the fob (not the fob itself) is inop. I am not going to tell you where it is because beamers are their own breed of cat and it could be any where but I will say that it is most likely in the PCM. Your best bet would be to take it to an import shop, tell them your problem and have them run a diagnostic. You don't have to have them fix it but if they find the problem it will save you time, money, and headaches vs. trying to find it yourself. Usually when a problem like this arises, there are more that accompany it or there are other problems that cause it. Beamers are chock full of wiring and I know a few techs that steer clear of them like the plague for that reason. I wish you the best of luck in fixing your beamer!

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Sounds like the power door lock fuse is blown. Check the fuses.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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Check if the fuse is blown off or something is jammed up.check and reply.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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Hi!

Try replacing the battery of the fob. Also check the the wiring of your central locking system.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Mar 13, 2009

    Please look at this wiring information---



    12volts red/green and red/blue + ignition harness
    Starter black/blue + ignition harness
    Ignition green + ignition harness
    Power Lock blue/red - 54 pin plug, pin 22 at general mod
    Notes: The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.
    Power Unlock white/black - 54 pin plug, pin 20 at general mod
    Notes: The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.

    On some models, unlock may require a double pulse.
    Lock Motor white (any one of 5) 5wi 54 pin plug at general module
    Notes: The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.
    Unlock Motor blue 5wi 54 pin plug, pin 35 at general mod
    Notes: The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.
    Disarm Defeat (chassis ground)
    Parking Lights+
    Parking Lights- see notes
    Notes: Need to remove the light switch module from the dash and pop off the front cover. A ribbon cable which connects the switch to the module will be exposed. With the switch facing towards you, you need to interrupt the fourth wire from the left with a relay. When interrupted the parking lights will comes on. See DirectFax document 1055 for wiring information.
    Hazards
    Turn Signal(L)
    Turn Signal(R)
    Door Trigger red/blue + 54 pin plug, pin 18 at general mod
    Notes: The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.
    Dome Supervision comes on with unlock
    Trunk/Hatch Pin white/brown - driver kick panel
    Hood Pin purple/green - 26 pin plug, pin 7 at general mod
    Notes: The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.
    Trunk/Hatch Release gray/green + 54 pin plug, pin 17 at general mod
    Notes: The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.
    Power Sliding Door
    Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
    Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock
    Disarm No Unlock
    Tachometer black ac diagnostic plug
    Notes: The diagnostic plug is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. If the vehicle does not have the diagnostic plug then the black wire can be found at the data link connector under the driver side dash.
    Horn Trigger purple/blue + horn relay
    Notes: The horn relay is above the general module. It is the green relay to the right of an orange relay.
    Memory Seat 1
    Memory Seat 2
    Memory Seat 3
    Interface Module: Category:
    Immobilizer Bypass Required:
    Yes Type:
    EWS III
    Part #: 556UW
    Alternate Part1 #: 555B



    Also see this link for refrence to see the installation & wiring pictures for a similar model---



    Alarm Installation & Wiring



    Wiring Document





    Thanks

    Rylee

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