Question about Cars & Trucks
Pressing either the inching pedal (combined clutch/brake) or the brake pedal causes fluid to come back into the reservoir and the pedal goes straight to the floor. Pressing both pedals at once, as you push one the other rises, both sides. My mechanic has replaced both master cylinders and the problem is the same. He says he can't fix it. What can cause this?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had this same problem on my last 91 accord. You most likely have air in the line. I had to bleed the line for the master cylinder, and then refill the clutch popped up right off the floor. As long as it is not continuious then I would try this. All I needed was a wrench. and i didnt cost me anything. Hope this helps, if you buy the book it will show you how to do it, just look under clutch it will show you how to bleed it. Good Luck.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
First look for obvious leaks under the vehicle, especially the inside area of each wheel... If you see fluid, you have either a blown cylinder seal or a bad line (check the rubber hoses to the front and back brakes too) Repair the offending part and bleed the air out of the system... (remember to clean pads or shoes if they have fluid on them)... If you see no hint of leakage anywhere, then suspect the master cylinder... if you remove the master cylinder, check and make sure that it didn't leak fluid into the brake booster diaphragm (Brake fluid will destroy the booster)... as in any repair when you open the system (lose fluid), you will need to bleed out the air to restore function... hope this helps...;-)
Posted on May 04, 2009
do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
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HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING This operation must be performed any time the clutch master or slave cylinder has been removed or if any of the hydraulic lines have been opened.
WARNING Do not spill brake fluid on the bodywork of the vehicle; it will destroy the paint. If fluid is spilled, immediately wash the surface with plenty of clean water.
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