Question about 2003 GMC Yukon XL
Check cv joints. check wheel bearings.. Check wheel nuts are tight and are tightening up on the center part of the wheel
Posted on Apr 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I sounds like you need to grease the intermediate shaft. GM sells a kit that consists of a plug and a bag of grease for around $18. It has been a few years since I bought it so the price could have went up. They also offer an update shaft for around $100. I am nearly 100% sure this is your problem. I have a 03 Yukon and have done it 3 times in 120,000 miles.
There are a few other posibilities, but they are not so cheap. The next logical problem could be the power steering pump or the valve in the gear box.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
I'm not sure if that truck has rack and pinion steering, or a steering sector. In either case, it sounds like you have stuck valve and the hydraulic pressure is fighting you, instead of helping you. When ever you turn the steering wheel the valve is supposed to move and direct the hydraulic oil pressure to help you steer. The valve is built into the sector or the rack and pinion, you may have to replace the assembly. There are companies that recondition those items so you might want to shop around.
Posted on Jan 09, 2010
It sounds like your front 4x4 actuator on the front differential has locked up. It's common to happen and the fork that engages the 4X4 in the differential is still locked up or partially locked up.
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. They are available at most auto parts stores, and are about $90. They are also on eBay for about $55 plus shipping. These are very easy to change - just thread out the old one, and thread in a new one.
Good luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts.
Posted on Feb 01, 2010
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