I recently ran into problems with my ford probe idling rough and occasionally dying when you would stop quickly the rpm would go down to around 80 or lower before going back up to around 500 or stalling. Yesterday I checked all the electrical connections, cleaned the MAF sensor, and the IACV then I set the ECU to recalibrate (disconnecting negative battery cable and holding the brake pedal in). After that the car ran great for a bit it idled strong around 750 and wasn't sluggish feeling at all, until about 20 minutes of driving then it refused to idle period you let off the accelerator and the car dies then once this happens its almost impossible to start the car it just cranks then dies and the fuel cutoff light comes on, I've checked the fuel cutoff switch in the back and it hasn't been activated and if the car is cold it seems run fine until about 20 minutes of driving.then starts doing this. Any info would be much appreciated this is really a headache
Re: 1993 (2.0l 4 cyl) Ford Probe Wont Idle when warm.
Josh, Did you output the car's diagnostic codes before you reset the computer? Just to confirm: your car has the "FS" engine - 1991cc double overhead cams? built on the Mazda "GE" platform? does your car have an "engine check light" or "MIL" on the dashboard? if so where and what does it look like and what does do ? ie: comes on when ignition is turned on & goes out after engine starts. or comes & goes out after x seconds. etc etc are you 5sp manual or auto trans?
does your car have a diagnostic plug with a flip open lid just behind the battery near the front left suspension tower?
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Sounds like you have bad gas. It can get strong mix of gas to give you the right idle, but when it has water mix, it will cause the car to fire like it should. This will then give you a low, rough, or just cutting off idle. Try mixing water remover in with the gas. You may have to drain the gas out or just drive it like it is until the tank is almost empty. Fill up with gas (from a different store) and you may want to change the plugs after the good gas is through the system. I'm not saying the plugs are bad, but there may be a lot of moisture beads from the water sitting causing rust.
when you are traveling about 35 or 40 mph press the brake just hard enough to make shudder let off do it again let and off. if you can control the shudder that way then its the brake if does not do it til you slow to a certian speed then the problem may be engine related. As far as the low idle there is an idle stabilizer which can definitely cause that problem. Or in some case an aged timing belt can cause similar issuses
Answer: The engine noise, it is impossible for us to help you here without listening to the engine ourselves. As for your idling problem, check all the vacuum hoses and intake manifold gaskets as you might have a slight vacuum leak somewhere. In addition, check the idle speed control motor to make sure it is operating properly. If all checks out okay, scan the computer for fault codes. Scan the computer for fault codes. Also, check the oxygen sensor and coolant sensors and also Check your EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve it sounds like it is stuck open and needs replacing