An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: how to remove security ring on drive shaft?
I think you are talking about the clip on the splines at the end of the shaft. You don't need to remove anything. Just get a large screw driver or prybar and try to lever the inside joint out of the transaxle. That clip just provides a some retention in a groove, but it does not need to be removed. Sometimes, just a sharp tug on the shaft will release it.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.
Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)
Need to replace the drive shaft. Aftermarket parts work fine. The biggest issue is removing inside connection to the half shaft. The clip ring tension is stronger than the boot holding the inboard joint on the drive shaft. To break it loose get a large screw driver and from under the car in front hit the inboard joint hard several times until it over comes the clip ring. Remember... always use jack stands when working under the car.
Ignition Switch/Lock Cylinder REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION CAUTION Some models covered by this manual may be equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), which uses an air bag. Whenever working near any of the SRS components, such as the impact sensors, the air bag module, steering column and instrument panel, disable the SRS, as described in Section 6.
The ignition lock is an integral component of the steering lock mechanism. If the ignition lock must be replaced, perform the following procedure.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the ignition switch/lock cylinder assembly
Fig. 2: Remove the break-off head retaining bolts by chiseling a slot in the bolt, then removing them with a screwdriver
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Properly disarm the air bag system.
Remove the rear console box, brake boot and center panel (disconnect the harness connectors).
Remove the rear console.
Remove the undercover, glove compartment and compartment cover.
Remove the upper and lower steering column covers.
Tilt the steering shaft down. Remove the cap and panel light control switch. Remove the meter hood mounting screws. Pull the meter hood forward to disengage the clips.
Remove the instrument cluster,
Remove the drivers side air bag and the steering wheel.
Remove the combination switch.
Remove the passenger side air bag mounting bolts, electrical connector and remove the air bag module.
Remove the hood panel release lever. Pull the side panel forward to disengage the clips, remove the side panel.
Remove the side covers.
Remove the dashboard mounting bolts, pull the dashboard up and forward and remove.
Remove the steering shaft.
Remove the screw and the ignition switch and disconnect the ignition switch connector.
Using a chisel and a hammer make a groove in the heads of the steering lock mounting bolts. Remove the bolts and the steering lock assembly.
Install the steering lock mechanism to the steering column jacket. Make sure that the lock operates correctly. Install new mounting bolts and tighten the bolts till the heads break off.
Reconnect the ignition switch connector to the ignition switch and install the ignition switch to the steering lock mechanism with the screw.
Replace the dashboard close to its mounts and connect all harness connectors. Install all mounting bolts. Torque to 14-18 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).
Install the side covers.
Instal the side panels.
Install the steering shaft and torque the mounting bolts to 12-16 ft. lbs. (16-22 Nm).
Connect the passenger side air bag module electrical connector and replace the module to the dash and install the mounting bolts.
Install the combination switch on the steering column.
Install the steering wheel and drivers side air bag module.
Install the instrument cluster.
Install the meter hood.
Install the upper and lower steering column covers.
Install the glove compartment cover, compartment and the undercover.
Install the rear console, bracket, center panel, brake lever boot and the rear console box.
Reconnect the negative battery cable,
Place the steering column securely on a workbench. Use a chisel and hammer to make slots in the head of the lock screws. Remove the screws.
two axles, different for ach side. Passenger side has a carrier on the half shaft, driver side is one solid link. Loosen lug nuts, the you need a 36mm socket to loosen the center nut on the drive shaft, same for both sides. Remove the cotter pin and retainer before loosening the center nut. Jack up the vehicle and secure with jack stands. Remove wheels. Remove brake calipers and tie up out of the way. Loosen and remove lower strut bolts (2) and lower ball joint bolts (3). Swing center knuckle out and off the drive shaft. On passenger side, loosen carrier bolts (3) halfway up the drive shaft, above the exhaust pipe and crossmember. This is a pain on the 94, but easier on later models. The passenger shaft has two half shafts joined at the carrier. No retainer clip is used, so pull on the end of the shaft and it will come out. Iff the inner CV boot is puked, it will probably come out in two pieces. You may have to use a large screwdriver to pry the inner shaft out of the transaxle. The driver side does not use a carrier and will come out with a strong pull. It does use a retainer clip on the inside end of the driveshaft. You can get new driveshafts with cvs as an assembly at most auto parts stores, about 60-80 bucks with exchange. Be sure the new driver side shaft has the new retainer clip on it. Assembly is reverse of dissassembly, but make sure to tighten everything up good.
YOU NEED A LOCK PLATE COMPRESSOR TOOL TO COMPRESS LOCK PLATE SPRING SO YOU CAN REMOVE STEERING SHAFT SNAP RING.YOU CAN BUY LOCK PLATE COMPRESSOR TOOL AT ANY AUTO PARTS STORE.SEE WHEN YOU COMPRESS LOCK PLATE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE STEERING SHAFT SNAP RING.YOU NEED TINY SMALL FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER AND TINY PAIR NEEDLE NOSE PLIER THE LOCK RING IS HARD TO GET OUT.
its retaind with a roll type snap ring. you need to POP it out. being carful not to damage it seal, pry with a good jolt between the trans and cv cup, or take a pry bar or pipe and jab at it like your stabbing it lol. dont use a hammer or go crazy but it takes a good wallop to release. then slide it out, to install, trun till it drops in and POP it in by hand with the slop in the cv joints.good luck!