Question about 1988 Ford Thunderbird

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Too much fuel

During restoration if all vacuum lines are plugged/installed engine chokes out. If at least one line is left open/not installed, engine continues to run but get over loaded with fuel and eventually kills it. MAP sensor's already been replaced. Any other suggestions.

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  • Ford Master
  • 21,873 Answers

Which engine, and was it running correctly before the repairs were made ?

Posted on Apr 23, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 5501 Answers

SOURCE: 02 F150 4.6 has 84K is missing / hesitating durring accellarat

Try cleaning the groove under the Airhorn gasket. Then try it. A municipal mechanic who works on 4.6 engines in Police cars told me about the groove.

The TPS regulates spark and fuel, its not too expensive and wears continuously. A slow advance would make the engine stumble.

Thought of a fuel sample? You get same problems from bad fuel. Some "Octane Booster" might cure it until you can tank up with Premium. Good Luck

Posted on May 23, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Multiple vacuum problems. Now receiving P0401 and P0308 codes.

spray carb. cleaner on vac lines while running. engine will change rpm when sprayed near vac leak

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: MAP sensor / does a 2006 f150 have one? and if it

Bad MAP sensor....located on your intake manifold....one connector...1 o-ring

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

johnjnail
  • 1702 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 Bronco runs rich. I've replaced Map sensor,

check that there is no fuel in the vacuum hose that is going to the fuel pressure regulator, if there is fuel in the vacuum hose replace the regulator.

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: what causes 2000 taurus engine rough idle but no codes

remove neg. cable from battery so the ECM will reset this may work. make sure the IAC is air tight. if this doen't fix your problem have someone check the IAC valve if it's bad the part runs $300.00 pluse

Posted on Nov 25, 2011

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I have a 1984 Toyota pickup with 22R. Can't get it to star. Done changed the coil


Could be one of the following problems:
Fuel supply to carburetor:
  • Choke operating
  • Flooding
  • Needle Valve sticking
  • Vacuum Hose
  • Fuel cut solenoid not opening
  • Secondary throttle valve not closed
Ignition Problems:
  • Ignition Coil
  • Igniter
  • Distributor
Spark Plugs Faulty
Vacuum Leaks
  • PCV line
  • EGR line
  • MC line
  • Intake manifold
  • CMH
Low Compression

Aug 30, 2015 | Toyota Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i replace the vaccum line for the light and choke. model 1993


which swift?
the canada one?

you have a choke and carb,. NOT IN USA.
so why not say country, we cant help you unless you state
the engine size and country.
what is a light vacuum line.?
chock is easy.
but light?

all vacuum lines, un plug them , put new back in.
all.
they push on and off. no clamps no treads;

93 swift, has these engines. and many carbs used world wide
in fact fueling is regulate by LAWS in most countries.

engines.
G10a
G13 A or B?
G13BA
G16A or B?
lots of engines.
i have vacuum maps (real suzuki) but the first question
in the database is WHAT COUNTRY? or market.

Aug 08, 2014 | 1993 Suzuki Swift

1 Answer

1983 chevrolet monte carlo


make sure spark plugs and wires been replaced.replace distributor cap and rotor.replace fuel filter in the carburetor in let nut to fuel line.also check carburetor automatic choke plate make it closed during start up and open as engine warm up.but the choke need to closed when you first start engine up in the morning. i had same car years back you had to pump accelerator pedal twice then start engine. had be careful easy flood out carb engines.

Apr 25, 2013 | Chevrolet Monte Carlo Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hello, After my 1987 F-250, 7.5 L V-8, 4BBL sits for more than 12 hours I have to pump the accelerator anywhere from 20 to 50 times to get it to start. Once it starts it runs fine. I have replaced every...


That would be a Holley, probably model 4160 carb on it. You need to do a little detective work on this. You either need to adjust the choke or find out where the fuel is going after 12 hours.

First, when the engine is running check the Intake and Carburetor gaskets for vacuum leaks. Also spray by the Vacuum reserve canister (Like a coffee can) with either Choke cleaner or a water mist. Either way the RPM will change if you have a Vacuum leak. Fix the vacuum leak if you find one. The engine needs Vacuum to draw in the fuel for a cold start. There are vacuum ports with gaskets (Hidden until disassembled) where the Choke housing attaches to the main block of the Carburetor. A leak here will mess up the tiny piston inside the Choke. (Its under the Black cover and operates the stepup for cold starts).

The black choke dial should be set for 2 marks rich. You should not need excess force on the choke flap to unload it. The choke flap should maintain an opening about 2 credit cards thick measured between flap and carb housing. To get this space you bend the rod pushing the choke flap. This should help the choke work better.

If this does not help, on the next 12 hour interval check for fuel by taking off the strainer on the Carb inlet and remove the line from the carb to the pump. If the fuel line is dry you are losing the Prime to the pump. You must have either a bad pump or a hole in the fuel line from the tank.

Would like to know what you found. The Power pump inside the front bowl of your Holley has a number and you can go to a Holley website to see if it is correct for your truck. The fuel inside the front bowl of your Holley should be enough start the truck. Even if the bowl went dry overnight, the fuel pump would replenish the supply well before 20 to 50 pumps.

Nov 04, 2010 | 1987 Ford F 250

1 Answer

Fast idle


The specification calls for 900 rpms for the idle speed when warm for the 1987 Dodge Shadow.

One can adjust this with a screw on the carburetor, if it has one.

If it's fuel injected the idle speed is automatically controlled.

Fast Idle Speed HOLLEY 5220/6520 Fig. 5: Turn the adjusting screw with a screwdriver to raise or lower the fast idle speed — make sure that the adjusting screw is resting against the lowest speed step 86735g04.gif
NOTE: This procedure is performed while the carburetor is installed on the engine.
  1. On 1981–82 cars, disengage the two-way electrical connector at the carburetor (red and tan wires).
  2. On all years, disconnect the jumper wire at the radiator fan and install a jumper wire so that the fan runs continuously.
  3. On 1983–86 models, pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover and allow it to draw underhood air.
  4. Disengage the oxygen sensor system connector located on the left fender shield near the shock tower.
  5. Ground the carburetor switch with a jumper wire.
  6. Open the throttle slightly and place the adjustment screw on the slowest speed step of the fast idle cam.
  7. With the choke fully open, adjust the fast idle speed to comply with the value indicated on the underhood sticker.
  8. Return the vehicle to curb idle, then reposition the adjusting screw on the slowest speed step of the fast idle cam to verify fast idle speed. Re-adjust as necessary.
  9. Turn the engine OFF, remove the jumper wire and reconnect the fan.
  10. Reinstall the PCV valve and remove the tachometer. On 1983–86 models, reattach the oxygen sensor system connector, and remove the jumper wire from the carburetor.
Fast Idle Opening MIKUNI
  1. Before adjustment, leave the carburetor alone for approximately one hour at 73°F (23°C).
  2. Adjust the fast idle opening by turning the fast idle adjusting screw to the following specified values (drill diameter):
    • 2.6L engines equipped with manual transaxles — 0.028 in.
    • 2.6L engines equipped with automatic transaxles — 0.031 in.
Choke Valve Setting MIKUNI Fig. 6: After tightening the choke cover lockscrews, cut the heads off of lockscrews A (total of 3 screws) and stake the heads of lockscrews B (total of 2 screws) with a blunt punch 86735g56.gif
NOTE: This procedure need only be performed if the carburetor is disassembled.
  1. Fit the strangler spring to the choke lever.
  2. Assemble the choke valve, aligning the inscribed line or black painted line on the tooth of the choke pinion with the inscribed line on the cam lever.
  3. Temporarily tighten the new lockscrews.
  4. Set the choke valve by moving the pinion arm up or down, align a punched mark on the float chamber cover at the center of the three inscribed lines, and secure the pinion arm with the lockscrews.
  5. Install the choke cover and tighten the lockscrews.
  6. Cut off the heads off of lockscrews A.
  7. Stake the heads of lockscrews B using a blunt punch.
Vacuum Kick HOLLEY 5220/6520 NOTE: This procedure is performed while the carburetor is installed on the engine. If the vacuum kick is adjusted to open the choke too far, the engine may stall or idle very roughly just after cold start. If it is adjusted so that the choke does not open enough, there may be black smoke in the exhaust. NOTE: To perform this procedure, you will need a hand held vacuum pump capable of producing at least 15 in. Hg (50.6 kPa) of vacuum. The vacuum kick diaphragm may be damaged if you attempt to retract it manually. You will also need a drill or dowel which has a diameter equivalent to the specification for Vacuum Kick in the Carburetor Specifications Chart.
  1. Remove the air cleaner. Open the throttle, close the choke and hold it in the closed position, and then release the throttle to trap the fast idle cam in the choke-closed position.
  2. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the choke vacuum kick diaphragm. Connect a vacuum pump and apply 15 in. Hg (50.6 kPa) or more of vacuum.
  3. Gently move the choke blade toward the closed position just until play is eliminated from the vacuum kick linkage (so that the vacuum kick is determining choke blade position).
  4. Insert the drill or dowel into the gap between the upper edge of the choke blade and the air horn wall, toward the center of the gap. The dowel or drill should just fit into the gap. If necessary, rotate the Allen head screw in the center of the diaphragm housing to create the proper gap and then recheck with the measuring device.
  5. Restore all vacuum connections and reinstall the air cleaner.

Aug 05, 2010 | 1987 Dodge Shadow

1 Answer

I have A 1985 Pontiac Trans Am with A 5.0L E4ME carbonated engine and I had to remove all the vacuum line's and I need to get A diagram to hook it all up again. Or since I don't need to pass any emission...


You need to hook the vacuum advance for the distributor to the front lower left on the carb. The PCV valve goes in the center bottom front. The dashpot for the choke goes upper left front. The vacuum to the brake booster goes in the lower middle at the rear. If you have a second vacuum pot on the rear on the choke side it needs vacuum from the front. The transmission vacuum usually hooks to the rear on the intake. This is all you need. The rest of the ports on the carb and intake can be plugged. Hope this helps.

May 19, 2010 | 1985 Pontiac Firebird

1 Answer

How do you install injectors in a chevy s-10 pick-up?


Removal & Installation

8205896.gif
Exploded view of the fuel rail and injector mounting


Take care when servicing the fuel rail assembly to prevent dirt or contaminants from entering the fuel system. ALL openings in the fuel lines and passages should be capped or plugged while disconnected.
  1. Before disassembly, clean the fuel rail assembly with a spray type cleaner such as AC Delco® X-30A, or equivalent. After removal, DO NOT immerse the fuel rail in liquid solvent.
  2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove the air intake duct, as necessary for access.
  4. Tag and disengage the fuel injector electrical connectors.
  5. Disengage the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, then tag and disengage all other necessary vacuum hoses.
  6. Loosen and remove the fuel rail retaining bolts.
  7. If necessary to remove the fuel rail assembly completely from the engine compartment, or to prevent stressing and damaging the fuel lines, disconnect the fuel lines from the rail assembly.
  8. Carefully lift the fuel rail assembly and fuel injectors from the intake.
  9. Carefully release and separate the fuel injectors from the rail assembly.
  10. Remove and discard ALL old O-rings from the fuel injectors and, if disconnected, the fuel lines.
To install:
  1. Lightly coat the new O-rings with clean engine oil, then position them to the injectors and, if applicable, fuel fittings.
  2. Install the injectors to the fuel rail assembly.
  3. Carefully install the fuel rail and injectors to the intake manifold. Make sure the injectors are properly seated in their bores, but DO NOT force them into position.
  4. Install and tighten the rail retaining bolts to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
  5. If removed, connect the fuel lines to the rail assembly and secure the fittings.
  6. Engage the fuel pressure regulator and any other vacuum lines, as noted during removal.
  7. Engage the injector electrical connectors.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable and cycle the ignition switch (without attempting to start the engine) in order to pressurize the fuel system, then check for leaks.
  9. Install the air intake duct.

Apr 25, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

While starting my 2002 Ford Explorer sometimes it acts as it is flooded and will not start unless I put my foot all on the way down on the accelerator. I believe that this started when I came out of store...


well theres two things that could be happening. first would be the most obvious and to say the fuel pressure regulator is bad. simple test for that would be to pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator, and check for fuel in the vacuum line, if so it needs to be replaced. if not the next answer would be if you take lots of short trips without getting the engine warm, the engine will actually flood. its because the EFI tells the injectors to stay open longer and to dump more fuel in the cylinder just as a choke on a carb would do, and if you shut it off during this time it can actually flood the cylinders with fuel.

Feb 04, 2010 | 2005 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

Runs ok with choke almost closd


With the choke almost closed your using the vacumn of the intake maniflod to **** more fuel. This means that your engine is running too lean with the choke open. Why? Possibilities are, Fuel pump output to low, Check by disconnecting the fuel line at the carb (this takes two people) hold the end in a tin can, crank the engine. if fuel flow is good then pump isn't the problem if it's just a trickle replace the pump and the filter and you should be good to go. Other possibilities are clogged fuel lines. On an '86 I'd replace them unless they are stainless in which case I'd just blow them out with compressed air. Pinched fuel line, look for crushed areas or kinks, clogged fuel filter, should be an in-line filter near the carb on an '86. Other than that your carb might be set up wrong or in need of a good cleaning ang rebuild. I'd start by inspecting the furl lines and flow and go from there. Sounds like a fun ride! Good luck with it!

May 12, 2009 | 1986 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

1988 Chevrolet 1500 V-8 It idles high and won't start the first


could be the fuel pressure regulator. if too much fuel pressure it would act like the choke is on. as with all fuel injection, the pressure to the injectors vary according to the demand from the engine. It can run anywhere from 12psi to 15psi at idle to 30 psi plus when in demand for power. unplug the vacuum line from the pressure regulator while idling and see if the engine acts different. if not the regulator could be at fault. it will be a round barrel about 1.5" in diameter mounted in the return line with a small vacuum line running to it. while you have it off check the line with your finger for vacuum. mike

Jan 06, 2009 | 1988 Chevrolet K1500

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