Question about Cars & Trucks
Check the upper suspension mount in the mudguard at the top of the shock absorber. It is a large rubber mount held in by 3 bolts. They have a habit if breaking and allowing the shocky/steering mount to move around. Test by jacking the car off the ground and watch for down wards movement of the rubber. I have known then to allow the whole unit to drop out .
Posted on Apr 22, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Have you checked your wheel bearings? When these go out you can get a harsh grinding noise. This sounds like that is what it might be. Does it happen when you are going fast/slow turning/going straight? I know you said it's inconsistent but the more info the better. However, if I had to bet, based on what you have already said, it's your wheel bearings. Let me know if you have further questions. Thanks for using FixYa!
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
Have the brake pads been so very work they are down to the metal? This could cause the caliper piston to extend too far and not be able to retract properly.
Calipers Fail mostly from a cut in the rubber boot around the pistion dirt and debris get in there and rust the piston and it cannot retract properly Do they retract after they cool Down? if so the brake fluid has "boiled" if brake fluid is not changed about every 24,000 miles condensation builds up and lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid causing this problem.
Tell me does it happen after a long drive or siting a long time in heavy bumper to bumper traffic in hot summer weather? I recommend a complete brake fluid flush an change the calipers with NEW ones ot rebuilt and use dielectric grease on all points of metal to metal contact between the caliper an the mount bracket and thee ends of thee pada n the slide points they ride on and the pins that go through thecaliper and thread into the mount only dielectric not regular grease it will cause sticking and a worse problem than you have now.
Posted on Aug 25, 2008
you might have a froze caliper piston, he is asking for all of that because whenever you change a caliper out you dont just want to change the caliper but do the brake job while you are there because more than likely the rest of your brakes are worn as well and if you just do the caliper you will damage you brakes more because of uneven wear sometimes a caliper gets locked up from extreme wear on pads past limit, he is actually saving you money in the long run. now as far as price it doesnt take much to change a caliper out, if you pinch off the line hooking directly to that caliper and unhook it along with the two bolts, all you have to do is put the new one in and pump the brakes back up and then bleed them to ensure all air is out of brake system, and depending on make and model, bleed them starting from furthest wheel from master cylinder....in other words you should be able to find a better price cheaper considering they want to replace the rotors instead of resurfacing them so that is alot less time to just replace them it is merily just parts changing, I hope i could help
Posted on May 14, 2009
take off tires. two 14mm bolts behind the caliper. loosen the bottom 1. tilt the caliper up. slide caliper inward of the car, let caliper hang. two 17mm bolts behind the bracket take it off. and rotors should slide out. if rotor seized spray WD40 and hammer the rotor. careful don't hammer the stud it will screw up the thread.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
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