a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check for correct bearing preload adjustment
check that the hand brake was properly adjusted off before the pads were fitted as if not on the first application the pads will stay on the disc
the problem is in the workmanship and procedure for the repair
might be something in the braking system or wheel bearing going. don't take the wheel off. just jack up the wheel and turn by hand chock the front wheels and take the hand brake off to do this. turn the wheel back and forward. then do hand on top and bottom and wiggle the wheel should move a bit but not a lot with no clunking. then do west to east on the wheel feeling for the same. if there is a rumbling sound wile you are turning wheel and it is vibing though the wheel then it is more likely to be the bearing if it is a grinding sound then it could be the hand brake or brake disc check them for wear. also check disc for chips and excess rust on the disc. clean off with a wire brush or drill type. if nothing but rust do the clean up and try out the car on a drive. if sound has gone then it was the rust build up knocking on the brake pads. make sure there is no grease marks left on the disc when finished.
it sounds like you brakes are bad or going bad, block front wheels so they cant move!!!! jack up the back of the crv till tires are 1" to 2" off the ground, put shifter in N stop and spinn back wheels by hand lision for the noise, it is probably the brake squeaker on the brake pad and needs to be replaced
My immediate quick test would be to move the front tires to the back (and backs to front, of course) then try it out. If the vibration is still there but feels like it's coming from somewhere else (vibration could feel like it's in in steering wheel or seat), you've got a broken belt or bent rim (wheel). Don't want to get your hands dirty? Get all 4 wheels balanced -5 to 10 bucks per wheel.
Hi there! Check out this link. http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic175126.htm this link will take you to a forum full of people with CRV's who are having the exact same problem. It seems to be with almost every year of the CRV as well. Unfortunately Honda has no explanation or solution for this problem. I have a 2009 CRV and have not had this smell, but I have been having a ton of other problems with it. I have been incredibly dissapointed with this car, and will never get another Honda. I hope you have better luck than I, and be careful with it cause I think there are some serious problems with these CRV's. Good Luck!
The CRV is produced in both front wheel drive and four wheel drive versions. However in UK and Australia it is only available as a 4 WD as the front wheel drive option is not available in these countries.
The answer to your question therefore is that it is produced in both 2 WD and 4 WD but is dependant on what country you live in and the model variant.
Hope this helps. Please do rate my answer. Thanks.
dear in most cases it will be very hard to reach adjuster but there is another way to get ur hand brake better
1- lift jack "big one" 2- proper wrench 3- car supports for safety 4- screw driver
now u have to do the following:-
1- lift up the car from the rear middle but be sure it is in NORMAL gear and hand brake is down supports for front tires is highly recommended 2- remove both of your rear wheels put wheels under the car as if suddenly car fall it will fall on tires and nothing bad will happen 3- put car supports and both sides of rear Axle for more safety 4- now u can see your brake discs, near center of brake discs u will find a removable knob remove it by screw driver and see in side u will see the hand brake clutch push it by ur screw driver towards the center of the wheel until the maximum u can get 5- repeat last step for the other brake disc 6- restore the knob push it hard using screw driver 7- fix ur tires back, remove supports, lower the car and u r as good as new
Hub and Bearing Assembly
CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:
A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.
Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal. Removal
Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
Raise vehicle on hoist.
NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.
Metric Hub Remover Adapter
Front Hub Replacer
Turn Wrench Counterclockwise
Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench
Front Hub Remover/Replacer
Two Stud Adapter
Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)
Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.
NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.
Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .
NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.
Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.