96 Saab 900 Clutch Cable: Manual vs Self-Adjusting
I have a 1996 Saab 900 and am looking to replace the clutch cable-- I'm not sure whether to go with the original Saab self adjusting cable or the manually adjusting cable. If I go with the manual, how often do I need to tighten it??
Re: 96 Saab 900 Clutch Cable: Manual vs Self-Adjusting
Just get the manually adjustable one. I just replaced mine today and I have a 96 900SE. the new clutch feels better and you only have to adjust it when the pedal has alot of "slack". that means that the pedal can be depressed about and inch before it starts operating the cable. anything more than an inch needs adjustment
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you need a new clutch, try this, apply the brake,, and try moving the car , normally when increasing the rpm's a motor (and good clutch) will win out every time, if you can raise the rpm's and it still stalls out you have other issues, But My bet would be you need a clutch replacement
Had a recent similar problem. Fortunately, my replacement cable is adjustable. As the new cable stretched, I had to take a crowbar to the the throwout lever next to the battery and lever it back while pulling off the cable (towards the battery). I then lifted the fuse box (look out for the 10mm plastic nut that holds it in on the side by the driver's side fender) on the drivers side right in front of the windshield to reach down and pull the cable up enough to reach the adjustor. When it is high enough, release the locknut and turn the adjusting nut upwards about 4 turns (both nuts on my cable were 17mm and a "stubby" is handy but not necessary. Grab the end by the battery and, making sure it is seated on the groove on the transmission, pry the lever again with the crowbar and reseat tg
he cable end in the lever. I have had to readjust the cable twice more before it settled in a comfortableplace, but once you get the hang of it, it only takes about 10 minutes.
1. Remove the battery. 2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop. 3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable 4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules) 5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder. 6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield. 7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience 8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable. 9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment 10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.
Unfortunately, this model uses a clutch cable. The internal shaft (in the bell housing) eventually suffers from galling and crud accumulation. This puts enormous strain on the cable which may even break. The cable is self-adjusting but occasionally may need a little manual help. If you undo the nut (far lower right side of the box in American cars) and the clips holding the fuse box to the firewall you can lift it aside and see the cable where it exits the firewall. Grasp the large spring that surrounds the sheath and gently tug upwards. You should hear a click or two or three as the adjusting ratcheting mechanism operates. If you do not, tug a little more forcefully, but do not **** the cable as you can cause the ratcheting mechanism to fail. You will now have less free play of the clutch pedal and easier operation of the clutch. Order a new cable now and carry it in your trunk. You will be needing it soon.