I have replaced thermostat, changed coolant, and got all air out. let car get hot, steam coming ouut from rad. cap. but the fans wont come one. changed 3 relays in fuse box with parts car. cheked all plugs and wires. it has a 2.2, auto tranny, and about 300 k and good service records. what am i missing? thanks
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it could be you have an air lock in the cooling system
remove the rad cap from the rad, start the engine and let it run until the coolant drops (add to fill it back up) or until the coolant boils out of the rad spout.
maybe pull the heat sensor. -replace it OR clean it off, reinstall it.
yes i t could be the thermostat but before u change that make sure u dont have air in the cooling system.first raise your car up so that the overflow resivoir or rad is at the highest point ,open cap ,turn on vehicle and let it get hot.if it still overheating and not drawing any coolant shut off the vehicle, replace the res or rad cap back on and alow time to cool.when u come back and check after, coolant should have made, its way through the sysytem .if coolant is low repeat process untill u reach hot line on resivor.
could be waterpump?
i was going to say rad fan,but if so heater would be hot.
lack of coolant will make heater core to blow cold,if engine heats up with full coolant,usually means poor or no circulation.
run engine with full coolant,at operating temp.with rad cap off and look in rad cap hole and see if there is movement of water inside rad.
[rad fan will not come on if water is not circulating through rad water pump?]
That's probably coming out of your coolant return bottle. With rad cap off & engine cool, look at your level in the rad, if necessary top it up to an inch or so from top. Start engine, turn heater(not defrost) on and let it run until up to normal operating temperature. Keep an eye on temperature gauge & rad level. When it's at normal, watch for good flow going through rad when thermostat opens. after flow slows down,(thermostat closes) top it up if needed. If you watch 2 or 3 times for flow, and gauge doesn't go over normal, then put cap back on, then fill bottle only to mark for warm or hot engine, with coolant. If gauge goes up over normal from there, replace thermostat, and I'd get a new rad cap too. If that has electric cooling fan, make sure it comes on shortly after you see thermostat open & coolant flowing through rad.
You'll only see good circulation when it's at operating temperature & hot enough for thermostat to open, allowing coolant to flow through the system. Hope you had heater on (not defrost) while you were letting it run/circulate. I usually wait for rad fan to come on 2 or 3 times, before I put cap back on. Rad fan comes on to cool what just came out of engine when thermostat opened, so when you see good flow, you'll probably see fan come on shortly after.
Leave rad cap off when starting from cold, turn heater(not defrost) on, and top up coolant in rad as you go, to about an inch or 2 from top of rad. Let engine run with cap off until your rad fan comes on & off 3 or 4 times. Every once in a while, rev engine slightly for 5-10 seconds to help bleed air out faster. After about 3 or 4th time fan comes on, you should be o.k. to put cap back on all the way & fill bottle to proper level. Heat should be there now. Give it a try & let me know how it goes.
Not sure about the 4 runner's cooling system, but if there is airlock I usually take the coolant back out, take the thermostat back out, fill the engine block from this hole with 50/50 coolant, reinstall the thermostat, upper hose, fill the radiator and tank, then run the vehicle with the heater on max (rad cap off) and then fill the rad as the rest of the air comes out.