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Posted on Apr 22, 2013
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MY E150 FORD VAN WHEN GIVING IT GAS IT LOOSES POWER AND MAKES A POPING SOUND WHEN GIVING IT GASS AND THEN FINE WHEN BACK IN PARK

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  • Expert 339 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 22, 2013
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May be a vacuum leak. Check your vaccum hoses.

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 75 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 22, 2008

SOURCE: Ford E350 Passenger Van cranks but won't start

reset the cut off fuel line these switches some time goes them selves

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Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 26, 2008

SOURCE: I need an OBD error

P1299
Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition

Anonymous

  • 132 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 26, 2009

SOURCE: brake and turn signal lights stopped working on my 1996 Ford E150

You might have cut a wire or it could have broken or disconnected. Try tracing the wiring where you hooked up the trailer you may find one broken or disconnected.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: 96' Ford E150 fuel pump reset switch

mine is on the passenger side in front of the front door under the dash with a small hole for acess

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95 e 150 odometer,brake lights and wont shift out of park

Sounds like two different problems - the brake light switch and the speed sensor in the transmission.
Does the speedometer work ?
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NO POWER WHEN PUSHING ON THE GAS AND IT SPITS AND SPUTTERS AND BACK FIRES 2003 E150 FORD VAN ALREADY CHANGED SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES AND AIR FILTER

stop replacing parts and get the ingine analysed, sounds like a map sensor or airflow sensor, a code checker won't tell you anything if the problem is not registerd in the memory
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2001 e150 van ,at idle in drive trans has raddle,like metal objects banging around inside somewhere.sound dissapears at cruse.have any ideas what this could be.is this a serious problem? thank you...

coud be the shroud on the muffler under the van or loose muffler hangers .........
but could be anything loose under or if inside check mouldings seats dog house console dash .....
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97 ford e150 van inside windshield steams up. is

the heater core is located in the black box that is in the pictures (see below). To get access to it, you will need to remove the blower housing. The blower housing will separate from the main HVAC box, and will give you some space once it is out. Then we need to wrestle the main box loose from the firewall. That means dealing with the A/C pipes, heater hoses, vacuum hoses, mounting stud nuts under the hood and mounting bolts inside. Once the box is moving, the dash needs to "get floppy" so you can pull back the passenger side far enough to give the main HVAC box enough room pull away from firewall, and to "roll" back towards you. At this point the heater pipes will be visible, and the cover that contains the heater can be removed. It's a big job. Your car has A/C. The description in the haynes book is for a car w/o A/C. If you're not comfortable with plastic dash board removal, this job is not for you

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No fuel

you need to have someone to be near the back of the van when you turn the key to listen for the sound that should be coming from the gas tank your fuel pump if you do not hear anything you fuel pump is out try these websites www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your van wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
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My 98 ford f150 makes a poping noise and sputters and misfires when I rev it up passed 3grand or give it too much gas in any gear. sounds like a lawn mower and won't pick up speed. I can tell the power is...

This may mean a number of things, it could be a bad distributor cap, rotor and wires, or the intake valve or valves are burnt. Buy a compression tester and test the cylinder compression they all should be no les than 100 psi or the the engine needs a valve job, especially if one is down to 50 psi and the rest are at 130 - 150 psi.
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