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Kubota gr2100 won't go forward or reverse

Ball and socket speed control linkage has disengaged. I can put the ball back into the socket however it just disengages every time I start the engine. I notice that there is a 13mm nut next to the socket. What is the procedure to reattach such that it holds?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: front upper ball joint replacement

The dealer's answer (if you are interested).......

The ball joint is pressed into the upper control arm and has a tapered stud for attachment to the steering knuckle. The ball joint stud is attached and locked into the steering knuckle using a special nut. The ball joint is a sealed-for-life type and requires no maintenance. If the ball joint is defective it will require replacement of the entire upper control arm.

Sorry.

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: Will not go in reverse.

Sounds like an internal trans problem,but first,all of the external diagnostic checks need to be performed.Check fluid level,scan for diagnostic trouble codes,look at clutch volume indexes in the data stream,and also look at the input and output speed sensors to make sure they are functioning,as well as the command gear from the computer,and the PRNDL switch.The big tip thats an internal problem is the Reverse problem.Reverse is purely mechanical and hydraulic controls.Electronic malfunctions usually don't affect Reverse gear.

Posted on Jul 27, 2008

rteemon
  • 578 Answers

SOURCE: ABS system keeps engaging and then disengaging.

check abs module and wire and connector

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: linkage on gear shift problem

if its like the older fords- escort etc-go get a new gearstick -the initial pain $$$$$ will by far outway bush mechanic fix its grief!

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: my problem is that the

That cylinder is known as the clutch slave cylinder. It should push against the clutch fork every time the clutch pedal is depressed to allow gear changes. If it doesn't, suspect a faulty slave cylinder, or clutch master cylinder.

Posted on Sep 09, 2011

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91 Nissan truck 5spd transmission , only gear that works is reverse and 5th gear, doesn't have a reverse Lockout or a reverse sleeve. Trying to rock back and forward of truck no luck, any suggestion?


if the gear lever is into the top of the box, remove the turret and pivot ball and see why the shifter rails are not lining up
if it is a column shifter , check all linkages for adjustment or fallen off

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How to replace clutch fork pivot ball?


the one on my full size chevy is pressed in, i got a new one from the dealer and pressed it back in by putting a 19mm deep socket over it and taping it in with a hammer

Jun 24, 2012 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks

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1994 chevy k2500 aligned,new tires, new shocks and it still wanders when driven sraight


The most likely cause is a worn ball and socket (not the 'ball joint' on the suspension) on the Pitman arm for the steering linkage. The steering idler arm's ball and socket may also be worn. The parts are cheap, but it is a PITA to remove the Pitman arm. This can be checked by seeing how much steering wheel play you have before the wheels do anything. Looking at the Pitman arm while doing this may scare you. I drove with a bad one for ~1 year, and was always scared the ball was going to pop out of the socket and result in no steering.

Mar 03, 2012 | Chevrolet 2500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace control arms on a 93 protege


Raise the front of the vehicle and support it by the frame with jack stands. Remove the front wheels using the air gun and a socket.

  • 2 Place the floor jack under the lower control arm as close to the ball joint as possible. Raise the jack until it begins to lift the control arm. Make sure that the floor jack is positioned where it cannot slip off the control arm.
  • 3 Remove the cotter pin in the upper control arm ball joint using the wire cutters. Remove the nut on the bottom of the upper ball joint using a wrench. Separate the ball joint using the ball joint separator tool. Insert the tool between the spindle and the upper control arm and hit it with a hammer until it comes loose from the spindle.
  • 4 Remove the upper control arm by removing the nuts on the engine side of the arm holding it to the frame. Use a wrench for this, but as the bolts are loosened, keep the alignment shims together that are behind each nut. It will be necessary to replace these on the side they were removed from for the alignment.
  • 5 Lift the upper control arm off and remove the upper ball joint using the ball joint installer kit. This procedure is only necessary if the new control arm does not come with a ball joint, which would be unusual.
  • 6 Place the receiver over the bottom of the ball joint and the smaller pusher cylinder on the topside. Place the large C-clamp from the kit over the cylinders. Use the ½-inch drive air gun and socket to push the ball joint out. Reverse the process to install the ball joint. Install the upper control arm in reverse order of removal.
  • Oct 27, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


    This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
    Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
    Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
    Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
    1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
    3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
    4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
    5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
    6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
    F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
    1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
    2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
    3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
    4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
    5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
    6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
    7. Connect the drag link.
    Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
    1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
    3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
    4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
    5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
    6. Have the front end alignment checked.
    RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
    4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
    5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
    6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
    7. Have the front end alignment checked.
    Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
    4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
    5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
    6. Have the front end alignment checked.
    Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
    Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
    Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
    Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
    Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
    Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
    4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
    5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
    6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
    7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
    8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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    Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

    1 Answer

    How do you put in a ball joint in a 2001 sebring convertible


    It depends on exactly which ball joint of the 3 per side your changing, but here are the details.

    COMPRESSION LOWER ARM & LATERAL LOWER ARM ASSEMBLIES
    Removal
    1. Loosen compression lower arm ball joint nut. Using steering linkage puller, separate ball joint and
    knuckle. Remove nut, bolts and compression lower arm assembly. Remove dust cover.
    2. Remove stay. Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Loosen lateral lower arm ball
    joint and knuckle nut. Using steering linkage puller, separate ball joint and knuckle. Remove nut, bolt and
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    Inspection
    Using preload socket, ensure breakaway torque for compression lower arm ball joint is 4-22 INCH lbs. (0.5-2.5
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    Installation
    To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW ball joint nuts. Lubricate lip and inside of dust cover with
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    UPPER ARM ASSEMBLY
    Removal
    Using steering linkage puller, loosen upper arm ball joint and knuckle nut. Remove self-locking nut. Remove upper arm and upper arm shaft assembly. Remove dust cover.
    Inspection
    Using preload socket, ensure breakaway torque for upper arm ball joint is 3-13 INCH lbs. (0.3-1.5 N.m).
    Replace upper arm assembly when measured value exceeds specification. Check upper arm, dust cover, and
    bushings for damage and wear.
    Installation
    1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW self-locking nuts. Lubricate lip and inside of dust cover
    with multipurpose lubricant. Using Ball Joint Installer (MB990800), install dust cover.
    2. Ensure upper arm shaft assembly is installed at indicated angle. Verify upper arm shaft
    assembly installation. Check front wheel alignment.

    Once you have the correct arm off and a replacement joint (if available, some are not serviceable and require the arm to be replaced) then you will need a press or a ball joint press to change the joint. Such as
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46389

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66958

    or http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46967

    Mar 17, 2010 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

    1 Answer

    2003 rondezvous stuck in reverse. so put it in emergency brake and turned off engine in driveway. the gearshift moves up and down but it never goes out of reverse. when moving the gearshift forward it goes...


    the linkage might have popped off the tranny must of those are on a ball socket, if you open the hood and find the cable that goes to the transmission. and you will most likly find that it popped off. if you have someone in the car when you are ready to pop it back on have them move the shifter until in the right spot and then push it back on. if it keeps poping off you will have to replace the cable.

    Nov 23, 2009 | Buick Rendezvous Cars & Trucks

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    My clutch pedal suddenly stuck to the floor but wont engage anymore. The cable seemed fine


    As far as I can remember, the Jetta has a ball & socket linkage on top of the gearbox. This linkage eventually wear out & the ball will pop out of the socket thus giving you no clutch pedal.
    Lift the bonnet & have a look on the right hand side of the engine, you should be able to see what I mean. Push the ball back into the socket & you'll get your clutch pedal back. Chances are the clutch will probably go again unless you replace the worn parts but they're a cheap enough fix.
    Hope this helps, Stephen.

    Oct 28, 2009 | 1997 Volkswagen Jetta

    2 Answers

    No the saturn limkage problem can not go into any gear and can not be driven in reverse,the gear shift is completely loose


    there is a ball socket attatchment for the linkage on the side of the transmission. The linkage breaks the clip and falls off the ball attatchment point. Common to saturn stick shifts of the era. You can order the whole linkage assembly with the clip but its expensive(300ish if I remember right), or you can try and get them to sell you JUST the clip (If your ball and socket are intact) if they package it seperately AND your socket and/or ball didnt break. Assuming they are intact, TEMPORARILY you could use multiple tie wraps or steel wire to tie/hold the ball and socket together but it would likely not last long and have the risk of breaking while driving. Wouldnt do damage if it broke while driving, but you will lose the ability to shift when it goes...and will be restricted to coasting down with clutch depressed or driving in whatever gear you were last in till you can reach a service location.

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