The battery light is on and the brake light is on, but it won't really go. Can rev up the engine, but most of the time it cuts off. We noticed the brake light and battery light about 20 mines before it did this.
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Depends. Check the transmission fluid. It should be clean and not brown, and reddish. It should not smell burnt. It should be full according to the instruction manual. If you pull the dipstick and it is out of fluid, or smells burnt, you may need a transmission. Another clue: When you step on the gas, does the engine go really fast but the car does not? Is your emergency brake on? If the engine goes really fast, the parking brake is off, and the car goes slow, could be the transmission is at fault. Be Blessed.
The brakes maybe jamb on. If driving foe approx 15 mins and then check each of the wheels to see if the brakes are very hot. This will indicate which brake is not releasing properly. You then need to take your car to a brake specialist for repairs.
sounds like your brake light switch is stuck its located up on the brake pedal the arm that goes to the booster follow its up from the pedal and you should find a box connected to the pedal arm some of them have a button that pushes in and out which turns your brake light on and off
seems a bit early for clutch. how many k's? I would start by checking the intake tube for splits & security & airflow sensor. they will cause the engine to rev but no response (like a slipping clutch) so its manual right?
It sounds like a vac problem with the engine or the brake booster. The brakes should be vac assist and that vacuum comes from the engine. If it were something with the ABS system you should have a warning light on the dash. Nothing in the transmission would affect the brakes.
Check the vacuum hose that goes from the intake manifold to the brake booster sounds like it may have a hole in it.The vacuum leak will cause your motor to idle high and it also will cause your brake very hard because with out vacuum from the engine the brake booster will not work.