Question about 1997 Dodge Dakota

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My clutch pedal has no pressure??

The clips that hold the release bearing to the fork broke. Pulled transmission and replaced release bearing with clips and pressure plate. Put back together, but still no clutch. Then replaced slave cylinder and master cylinder. Then bled for 30 minutes until steady stream of fluid but still no change! So why do i still have no clutch? Suggestions please!!

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I hate to say this some clutch plates you can not tell the difference from the flywheel side so it will go on backwards ,sounds crazy,but I have seen people put them on backwards all the time and that is what it sounds like considering you have done enough for it to work,FLYWHEEL SIDE XXXXXX

Posted on Apr 22, 2013

  • Amy Bean Apr 22, 2013

    The clutch plate was labeled. It said flywheel side on it, so pretty sure it's in the right way. Anymore ideas?

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SOURCE: Hyd. Slave cylinder WITHOUT bleeder

you have to replace the master and slave. if there is no bleeder, you might get lucky bench bleeding it, but the whole assy, comes from dealer pre-bled. The system is sealed and even to do a clutch or trans, you shouldnt have to take it apart. DO NOT PUSH CLUTCH WITHOUT ALL PARTS HOOKED UP! youll break it.

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch master cylinder replacement

yes

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

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SOURCE: clutch problem

i would bleed the system again . make you get strong pressure. if that dose not work check throw out bear fork. it sittes on a ball stud good luck later

Posted on May 06, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: wont start - appears to have no spark

OK OUT OF THE BLUE MY TRUCK WOULDNT START I GOT A PUSH START AND IT WAS RUNNING FINE THEN ABOUT A WEEK LATER THE SAME HAPPEN AGAIN SO I STARTED TROUBLESHOOTING I THOUGHT IT WAS MY CLUTCH IT WOULDNT LET ME GO INTO GEAR I HAD SOMEONE LOOK AT IT AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS MY TRANSMISSION BUT A FRIEND OF MIND TOLD ME TO CHECK MY TRANS FLUID I LOOK UNDER MY HOOD AND I COULDNT FIND WHERE IT WAS AT CAN YOU TELL WHERE IT IS LOCATED

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

  • 395 Answers

SOURCE: bought new clutch new slave new master still no

Hydraulic clutch systems are renown for having airlocks in them once the fluid has drained out.
1.With the Master cylinder full have an assistant pump the clutch pedal acouple of times and keep it on the floor.
2. Release the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to allow the air out and then tighten.
3. Assistant then allows pedal to come up.They may need to pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
4.Repeat from #1 until no nore bubbles are seen coming out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
If you have a length of suitable size plastic tube that fits neatly over the the slave cylinder bleed nipple , the bubbles will be seen more clearly.
It could thae 8 to 10 pump sequences to clear the air lock. If the clutch still feels spongy, repeat the sequence after a couple of days driving.

Posted on Aug 18, 2010

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How do i replace a clutch on a 2008 scion xb


There is a video about this on line

I would suggest that you get a paperback repair manual like a Haynes to help you if you do it yourself. Or sign up at Autozone.com and see if they have any downloadable free guides specific to XBs. Autozone won't spam you for signing up.

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Mitsubishi pajero clutch removal



I am currently replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on a 1996 Mitsubishi pajero gen-II 6g74 5-spd

I found loads of information on unbolting and un-plugging the electric's what I didn't find was information about separating the engine and transmission.
The thrust bearing is held in place by a cir-clip behind the pressure plate, the bearing fork is near imposable to access unless to two are separated.


note: I think it would've been best to do this when removing the hydraulic cylinder that moves the clutch fork as I had to re-bolt up the engine.


Here is how to do it !!
1: remove the two rubber inspection covers (one will be around the clutch fork) mine being r/h drive the fork is on the left-side, these are located either side of the gear box.
- Looking through the inspection ports you will see - thrust bearing, thrust bearing fork which is attached to the bearing via clips, back of pressure plate, gearbox input shaft.
2: you will need two long flat head screw drivers

3: you want to insert these between the thrust bearing and collar via the inspection ports to release the cir-clip

4: the thrust bearing and fork should now move freely on the splined shaft.

Still having problems ?
looking through the inspection holes - the collar shouldn't be visible (it looks like a spline)
- if it is !! you will need to move this further in to the pressure plate as the cir-clip wont have room to release behind the pressure plate.
- the point you are trying to insert the screw drivers into is between the collar and bearing (not the collar and pressure plate)
I was able to disengage the cir-clip for the trust bearing on the new pressure plate (on the bench) with a ball joint removal tool by a applying pressure to one side of the collar only - ( I don't think you can do this with the transmission in place as the thrust bearing fork gets in the way)
once removed - you will be able to separate the transmission and engine, unbolt the pressure plate, replace the clutch plate, unbolt the 10mm retaining bolt for the clutch fork which is located inside of the bell housing - knock up into the bell housing the frost plug this allows for the pin holding the fork to be removed (I did this by wiggling the fork back n forth and putting a piece of welding wire part way through the 10mm hole and pulling out through the frost plug hole).
hope this all helps someone...good luck

on Apr 03, 2010 | Mitsubishi Montero Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Clutch noise


It's time to change the clutch with entire kit. Release bearing, pilot bearing, clutch plate, pressure plate and get flywheel turned. If that bearing flies apart inside your transmission it will leave you stranded and your release fork will be destroyed possibly causing more damage to the transmission housing. It is hydraulic and if the master cylinder is working properly you're not likely to notice any play in the pedal due to release bearing.

Oct 03, 2013 | 1990 Honda Accord

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Manual Transmition, While driving the clutch pedal went right to the floo and stayed down. I lifted the pedal with my foot and with a light touch i pushed down on the pedal and it it began a grinding sound...


the slave cylinder on the trans works just like a brake cylinder, when fluid pressure is applied it flows into the cylinder and pushes against a clutch fork which engages a throw out bearing against the clutch pressure plate fingers. a couple things could have happened. I think your trans is fine but im sure the clutch fork or the pressure plate broke. I'm sorry but the trans is gonna have to be pulled. best wishes

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1 Answer

1998 ford contour 2.5 ltr manual,stuck in second and have to hold the clutch in to move it.how do i solve this issue?


SECTION 308-00: Manual Transmission/Transaxle and Clutch - General Information 1998 Contour/Mystique Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Manual Transaxle and Clutch Manual Transaxle and Clutch - General Information This section covers general procedures for diagnosis and testing the clutch system. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01 . For specified clutch system service procedures. For additional information, refer to Section 308-02 . For a complete description of the manual transaxle. For additional information, refer to Section 308-03 .
The clutch system includes:
  • Flywheel.
  • Clutch disc.
  • Clutch pressure plate.
  • Clutch master cylinder.
  • Clutch slave cylinder.
  • Clutch release fork.
  • Clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder transmits fluid pressure to the slave cylinder, which in turn moves the clutch release fork and the clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder uses brake fluid and shares a common reservoir with the brake master cylinder
The clutch is a single plate, dry-friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring clutch pressure plate. The clutch disc has a hub which is splined to the input shaft. The clutch disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. Torsion springs on the clutch disc help absorb the engine torque pulses. The clutch pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tightly against the surface of the flywheel.
In the engaged position, the diaphragm spring holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc, so that engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch release hub and bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch pressure plate cover pull the clutch pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine torque from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inspection and Verification - MTX-75
The following checks should be carried out before repairing or replacing the transaxle:
Poor gear shifting
  1. Check the operation of the clutch: Lay a block of wood approx. 25 mm thick under the clutch pedal and depress the clutch pedal as far as the stop. If 1st or 2nd gear can be selected with no problem with the engine running and the parking brake applied, the clutch is OK. If the gear cannot be selected, repair the clutch.
  1. Check the selector mechanism:
    • The free play in the gearshift lever must be no more than 15 mm.
      • If the gearshift lever free play is too great, check the gearshift cables and replace them if necessary.
    • If the gearshift lever free play is OK, adjust the gearshift linkage. For additional information, refer to Section 308-06 .
  1. Check the transaxle fluid level and top up with Automatic Transmission Fluid ESD-M2C186-A if necessary.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dec 21, 2010 | 1998 Ford Contour

1 Answer

We just got a 1985 F350, we need to replace the clutch and not sure exactly how to go about it...we have the transmission down and the clutch kit just need to know where to go from there. Thanks to anyone...


The first thing to do is to have the flywheel re-surfaced because a warped flywheel will cause the clutch to chatter or shudder when you let up the clutch pedal, and also be certain that the pilot bearing is replaced, it can be difficult to remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crankshaft and you will most likely need to obtain a good pilot bearing puller to remove it.

Clean the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block while the flywheel is being re-surfaced, and be sure that all of the old clutch material and dust has been cleaned from the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block, and contamination from an old clutch disk will lead to early clutch failure.

After the flywheel has been installed and torqued down, then you will need to mount the clutch disk and the pressure-plate assembly together onto the flywheel, and be sure that the clutch disk is facing the right way (usually the spring hub will go towards the pressure-plate assembly), and then start to install the pressure-plate assembly bolts but only hand tighten them for now. After the bolts have been started then use the clutch disk alignment tool that should have come with the clutch kit to align the clutch disk with the pilot bearing, and when you have it aligned so that the alignment tool easily slips through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, then tighten down the bolts to the pressure-plate assembly one turn at a time in a criss-cross pattern until the pressure-plate assembly is flush with the flywheel and then you can torque down the pressure-plate assembly bolts. This is a critical step and the better aligned that you get the disk and pilot bearing, and the easier it is to remove and replace the alignment tool, the easier it will be to install the transmission, and the transmission input shaft should slip smoothly through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing and not have any difficulties mounting up to the engine, and if the transmission hangs up when you are installing it and and the transmission input shaft does not go straight in through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, it can damage the clutch hub and the clutch will chatter or shudder when you let the clutch pedal up, and it will shorten the life of the clutch.

After the clutch has been aligned then install the throw-out/release bearing onto the transmission input shaft collar and the throw-out/release bearing fork, and use a lithium based grease on the pivot points of the throw-out/release bearing fork and where the fork contacts the throw-out/release bearing, and if it did not come greased, then lightly grease the inside of the throw-out/release bearing with a lithium based grease and do not over do it on the grease, you want just enough grease to keep the throw-out bearing and the input shaft collar lubricated but still have a smooth operation to it, and you do not want to damage the clutch from oil or grease contamination as this will cause the new clutch disk to slip.

The transmission can now be installed into the vehicle and be careful not to hang the transmission input shaft on the clutch disk or the clutch disk will be damaged. I hope that this information will help you to replace that clutch with a proper quality repair that you will get the most out of.

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How do you replace a throw out bearing on a 88 integra ls?


You must remove the transmission from the vehicle. The clutch release bearing (throwout bearing) rides on the input shaft of the transmission, and is the only part of the clutch kit that remains attached to the transmission upon removal.

Make certain you reattach the bearing retainer mechanism to the bearing fork, so that the bearing doesn't ride on the face of the pressure plate while you're not using the clutch pedal.

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Info on do it tyour self clutch removal on 2001 mustang 3.8


REMOVAL:
  1. Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
  2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
  6. Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
  7. Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
  8. Remove transmission.
  9. Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
  10. Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
  11. Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
  12. Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
  13. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
INSTALLATION:
  1. Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
    1. Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
    2. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
    3. tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
    4. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
    5. Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
    6. To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.

  2. Install transmission to flywheel housing.
  3. Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
  4. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Install starter motor.
  6. Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
    1. Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
    2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.

  7. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable

Aug 08, 2009 | 2001 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

I am replacing the clutch disc on a 2000 hyundai elantra. the is a c-type clip holding the throw out bearing to the pressure plate, i can't get the engine separated from the transmission. i understand the...


the clutch fork must be binding up on the input shaft!
release the fork from its pivot point!
[ i hope you removed or slackend off the fork adjuster & dont forget to readjust it when its all back together!

Jul 20, 2009 | 2000 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

Mitsubishi pajero 1992 turbo diesel 4cyl - clutch disk replacement


This job isn't one for the faint hearted - yes you do need some pretty special tools the main one being a transmission jack - its pretty heavy work otherwise a socket set and some basic knowledge.
but here's is a posting I recently made:
I am currently replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on a 1996 Mitsubishi pajero gen-II 6g74 5-spd
I found loads of information on unbolting and un-plugging the electric's etc. what I didn't find was information about separating the engine and transmission.
The thrust bearing is held in place by a cir-clip behind the pressure plate, the bearing fork is near imposable to access unless to two are separated.


note: I think it would've been best to do this when removing the hydraulic cylinder that moves the clutch fork as I had to re-bolt up the engine.


Here is how to do it !!
1: remove the two rubber inspection covers (one will be around the clutch fork) mine being r/h drive the fork is on the left-side, these are located either side of the gear box.
- Looking through the inspection ports you will see - thrust bearing, thrust bearing fork which is attached to the bearing via clips, back of pressure plate, gearbox input shaft .
2: you will need two long flat head screw drivers

3: you want to insert these between the thrust bearing and collar via the inspection ports to release the cir-clip

4: the thrust bearing and fork should now move freely on the splined shaft.

Still having problems ?
looking through the inspection holes - the collar shouldn't be visible (it looks like a spline)
- if it is !! you will need to move this further in to the pressure plate as the cir-clip wont have room to release behind the pressure plate.
- the point you are trying to insert the screw drivers into is between the collar and bearing (not the collar and pressure plate)
I was able to disengage the cir-clip for the trust bearing on the new pressure plate (on the bench) with a ball joint removal tool by a applying pressure to one side of the collar only - ( I don't think you can do this with the transmission in place as the thrust bearing fork gets in the way)
once removed - you will be able to separate the transmission and engine, unbolt the pressure plate, replace the clutch plate, unbolt the 10mm retaining bolt for the clutch fork which is located inside of the bell housing - knock up into the bell housing the frost plug this allows for the pin holding the fork to be removed (I did this by wiggling the fork back n forth and putting a piece of welding wire part way through the 10mm hole and pulling out through the frost plug hole).
hope this all helps someone...good luck

Aug 10, 2008 | Mitsubishi Passenger Cars & Trucks

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