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2001SILVERADO NO REAR BRAKES AFTER REPLACING BRAKE LINES

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 1,209 Answers

Have you bleed the brakes? You need to start at the furthest brake from the master cylinder, or the passenger rear. Have some one slowly pump the brake pedal 8-10 times until there is some resistance and the pedal is tight. Open the bleeder screw located on the wheel cylinder and then close it. Make sure the person pumping the brake pedal holds it down until you get the bleeder closed as to not suck air back into the system. Repeat above steps until no more air comes out of the bleeder screw then move on to the drivers rear, repeat all above steps and then on to the passenger front and finally the drivers front. You will want to make sure the fluid level stays full in the reservoir under the hood, if it goes empty and you suck air into the system it is time to start over from the beginning. By the time you get to the front brakes you should have a fairly stiff brake pedal, and by the time you are finished it should be tight with the vehicle running and the power assist active.

Posted on Apr 21, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Replacing brake lines

Many issues can come into play when trying to mount prebent lines. First off, they are connected in
many of the same brackets as other lines, (ie.: fuel lines) . And sometimes because of the length and shape of a prebent line, other things such as the muffler routing, fuel tank position, ABS lines,
strut mounting can all " get in the way" of a one piece replacement. And of course all those lines would need bled of air when complete which poses problems if old bleeder screws are bad as well.
My suggestion would be to save the money on a factory bent line , head to or have towed to a
reputable garage and ask if they can service the lines, the experienced techs have ways of freeing
up a frozen bleeder, working around the hazards in the way with aftermarket replacement
brake lines and all the necessary adapters for proper connection. I have many years in the field,
and I have to say, YOU DON'T GET A SECOND CHANCE WHEN IT COMES TO BRAKES
Let the pro's do their job and keep us all SAFE. You wouldn't call a gardener to wire your house.
Ha Ha Ha I applaud your eagerness to fix things, but this is one thing I would let go.
thnx GT GOOD LUCK

PS Tell them what you have to work with and the quality shops will do what they can to help you.
The money you would spend on Dealer parts shoud be easily enough to more than cover the aftermarket repair.

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: how do i adjust the

Do not adjust the handbrake, it is not necessary. You can adjust the new brake shoes for a better brake pedal and this will also take care of the hand brake. This will have to be done with wheels off and lugs reinstalled to keep the brake drums in place. Sometimes the adjuster is difficult to reach and do not over tighten. When the rear brakes are properly adjusted you should have 3 to 4 clicks on the handbrake.

Posted on May 03, 2009

yotaguy
  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: brake light stays on after replacing brake line and bleeding

You may need to do a code scan,this will reset the computer and reset any codes if the brake problem has been taken care of.Autozone Shucks/Kragen/O'Reilly's will do this for free.

Posted on May 31, 2009

ourhowse
  • 2007 Answers

SOURCE: no brakes, relaced rear brake shoes. abs, and brake lights still

Replace master cylinder.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

  • 4348 Answers

SOURCE: bleeding brakes 2000 suburban wsith ab

Why were the brake lines replaced?

Sounds like the mastercylinder may have run dry. You have to bench bleed the master and then DO NOT allow fluid to run low, while bleeding brakes...

if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

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2 Answers

The front brake pads burnt and after replacing pads and calipers during bleeding the back lines have no problems. the front lines wont even push much air, and no sign of fluid, what should i do now?


Have you left the cap off the brake reservoir whilst bleeding procedure.if the cap is on between bleeding it won't allow fluid to flow out of bleed nipple.if it is still blocked then it sounds like the lines / pipes have debris in them so need flushing through or replacing.

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rear brakes has two brake lines from mastercylinder to both rear wheels cylinders. front brakes has two brake lines from mastercylinder to front brake calipers for each front wheel.

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Replaced rusted brake lines but did not replace valve in rear lines will this cause brake fade in 1995 bonneville


BY brake fade away I take it that you mean the pedal goes to the floor after you taken your foot off the brakes. . The valve you left out is a compensator valve that proportions the pressure between front and back to stop rear brake lock up and side skidding. I think the problem is in the master cyl in that the nonreturn valve under the second piston is not working and hold residiual pressure in the rear lines (Assuming they are drum brakes). If not you will need to bleed the m/cyl by cracking the lines at it one ata time and emptying the cylinder of trapped air allowing a full charge of fluid every time you pump the brakes.

Mar 10, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Air in the fluid master cylinder


Do you mean the brake master cylinder? As long as the fluid is at the full mark, and you have no air in the brake lines, it is fine. A spongy brake pedal and poor braking operation happens when air is in the lines. Air can get into the lines when the fluid in the master cylinder is very low, almost out, or when a brake line is pulled apart (like when replacing calipers). To get the air out, one has to bleed the brakes-starting at the rear tires-the longest run from the master cylinder-and ending at the driver's wheel -nearest the master cylinder. Opening the bleed valve at each wheel in turn and pumping the brakes will force fluid into the lines and push the air out the bleed valve. When done properly, all the air in the brake lines should be expelled, and the brake pedal returns to it's firm pedal and good braking efficiency.

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1 Answer

Golf not braking on rear brakes also no pedal


You say you filled it with fluid after the repairs. You must also "bleed" the brake lines to purge any air that is trapped in them. Brake fluid provides the hydraulic compression that causes the brake pads to clamp to the brake rotor/drum. Air in the lines will prevent this as when the brake pedal is pressed, the fluid will simply pressurize the air in the lines and not activate the caliper/wheel cylinder. The reason you have front brakes is that modern vehicles have dual-reservoir master cylinders to prevent total brake loss in the event of a leak. This is why you still have front brakes as there is no air in those lines. You will need to bleed the rear brake lines at BOTH rear wheels to purge air rom the system. The procedure is fairly simple, though some cars with ABS have to have things done differently. I would recommend you check an online forum for you vehicle (simply Google "bleed rear brakes 20xx VW Golf) and see what comes up. It is easier to do with two people, but one can sometimes pull it off.

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1 Answer

Brake pedal pressure low after replacing and bleeding rear brakes


i dont know what this car is but it sounds like you need to adjust the rear brakes and also there may be air still in the sytem, there are many cars that cross brake systems so if you are working on the left rear wheel you would also need to bleed the right front wheel, heres what i would do make sure to fill the brake fluid and always keep an eye on the level as you are bleeding the brakes, start at the right rear wheel and bleed it a few times then move to the left rear wheel, bleed that then go to the right front and bleed that one and last is the left front and that should solve ant air in the system problem, also make sure there are no leaks in any of the brake lines. good day.

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1 Answer

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