Tailgate window relay location 1977 matador - Cars & Trucks

check the fuse/relay. if it is neither of these check the switch with a multimeter. If you can hear the motor trying to move the glass when you try the switch it may be the regulator needs attention. It may be the motor needs to be replaced.

check fuse and relay along with the switch first then the regulator and motor afterwards. Replacing the small electronics is obviously easier than having to open up the tailgate to check the mechanics of the winedow.

Check the wiring to the rear hatch. The cables break and cause a variety fo problems like yours. You will have to take the plastic cover off and expose the cables.

check wiring fuse and pos relay from dash switch

Power windows have relays not fuses if you can locate relay in fuse box see if there is another with same number if so change and if window works you need new relay if not drive motor may be bad

You have a fuse box under the hood behind the battery and another located under the dash on the left side of the vehicle access is gained by snapping off the plastic cover. Later models also have a small fuse box located behind the glove box.

If you haven't already done so check fuses and all the obvious stuff first.

The switch inside the truck and the key switch on the tailgate work from a ground source. That ground can be interrupted by 2 safety switches relating to the tailgate window operation. 1 safety switch is the top removal switch which is depressed when a specific bold that holds the fiberglass top is installed. It is located behind the drivers side trim panel in the cargo area about half way back from the rear seat. When you take that bolt out and take the top off you cant roll the window up. This is however most likely not the problem.

The second switch is actually inside the drivers side tailgate latch. This was the culprit when I had the same problem and seems to be a likely point of failure. First off, remove the switch for the window from the center consol and check the connector for ground on the common contact (usually center but check them all). If there is no continuity to ground then this is a sure sign that one of those safety switches is faulty (assuming no broken wires). You can check the first switch but is most likely a waste of time.

To remove the tailgate latch you first need to get the tailgate open and if your window doesn't work it needs to be rolled down first. Using any small gauge wire attach one end to a ground source and touch the other end to the connector contacts for the window switch you removed. One of the contacts to ground will roll the window down, the other up, and the third will do nothing that you will notice.

After the window is down, lower the tailgate and remove trim panel and everything else necessary to get to the drivers tailgate latch and remove it. It has a 2 wire connector attached to it. After it is removed place a jumper in the 2 wire connector and test your console switch for ground, if it has a ground then that was your problem.

I cant remember if the glass was in the way but if it is you can roll it up with the tailgate down with the jumper method above just have a friend lift the glass as it comes out so it doesn't damage or scratch it and have it braced with a table or something. Don't let the glass out with the tailgate down without helping it, it isn't designed to do so and could damage stuff.

When I pulled the latch and took it apart it was full of mud, I even removed the very tiny switch from it and took the switch apart to clean it. That part was very difficult because the parts were very small and not meant to be pulled apart very easily. The little contact was no larger in daimeter then a #2 pencil lead and only a 1/4" long and spring loaded when you open the switch. I cleaned everything, put it back together and it worked great.

That is until now, 2 years later it started doing the same thing again. I took great lengths in sealing everything to keep mud out and everthing and it only lasted 2 years, oh well. In short, it may be expensive but a new latch assembly might be a good idea. I have to do this job soon myself... again.

I would check for this problem before looking at the relay control because the relay control is a little more difficult to get to.

I hope that helps you out (remember rated this).

On a 1977 F-250 there is no such thing as a blower motor relay. There are basically 3 things in that system the switch in dash, the blower motor and the blower motor resistor. It seems to me the blower motor is fairly easy to get to in those years. Do you have a test light? Check to see if you have power to the motor I think it's an orange wire. No test, light take a length of insulated wire and hook one to the terminal, on the blower motor, where the orange wire would go now, touch the other end to + battery terminal, the blower motor should run. If not the motor is junk or you have a bad ground on the motor. It could very well be the blower motor resistor too, that is usually fairly close to blower motor, it's bolted to the duct work with two small bolts. They tend to get hot and the wire terminals get rusty and the connection fails, you may want to check the resistor first. Good luck.

Your problem, in order of your trouble-shooting, is either:
- the fuse for the window relay, or
- the window relay, or
- the dash switch, or
- the window motor.

For the fuse - pull out your owner's maniual and locate the page for the fuse-box diagram and find which fuse operates the rear window. Then locate your fuse box and (using that manual diagram) find the fuse and pull it. Check to see if the fuse-link inside it is solid or broken. If broken, then that's your problem and you just need to replace the fuse with the same amp-rating (the amp rating is stamped on top of the fuse. It''ll say "10A" or "15A" or maybe "20A" and be a distinctive color. Just run to the auto store and get that same color. You may even hacve a spae fuse of that type in a storage slot in the fuse box. Toyota does that on many models.
If the fuse link is solid, then re-insert the fuse back into its slot (firmly re-seat it) and try the dash switch again (sometimes the fuse contacts just need to be re-seated). If it still does not work, then move-on to next step; the relay.
To find the rear window relay, you'll need to do a bit of sleuthing. It is complicated, so I will just point you to a pdf file that takes you thru the access to the relay in the tailgate and the fix. It is at:

http//www.geocities.com/dkwalker/tech/rearwindow/briggs_relay_fix.pdf

Good luck.

REMOVE THE REAR TRIM PANEL ON THE TAILGATE AND SEE IF THE MOTOR IS GETTING 12 VOLTS AND A GOOD CHASSIS GROUND CONNECTION, MANY TIMES THE WIRING HARNESS THAT GOES IN TO THE TAILGATE DEVELOPES A OPEN/BROKEN WIRE FROM THE REPEATED OPENING AND CLOSING OF THE TAILGATE, THE WIRE BREAKS INSIDE THE PLASTIC INSULATOR AROUND THE WIRE, SO IT IS NOT APPARENT ON VISUAL INSPECTION, REQUIRES THE USE OF AN OHM METER AND A VOLT METER.

It is most likely a relay in the circuit board, but it could also be one of the safety switches, of which there are several. One of the safety switches is located on the rear windshield wiper motor mechanism. The window will not operate unless the wiper is fully retracted. Another is under one of the bolts on the left side of the removable hard top, to ensure that when the hardtop is off the window will not operate. Another safety switch is located in the locking mechanism of the tailgate, to ensure that the window will not operate unless the tailgate is closed and locked. Be sure to eliminate the safety switches as possoble causes before digging into the circuit board.

The circuit board is located behind the left, rear, interior side panel, just rear of the driver's door post. It contains four relays, two of which are for the rear window (one for up, one for down). You'll need to install new relays. If you don't know which one(s) to replace, just replace all four, as they're only about $6 each. Any good electronics store should them. Try an Omron part number G5LE-1DC12. This is a simple fix and will save you a bunch of money.

Russell
San Antonio, TX