Question about 2001 Chevrolet Silverado
The wind yanked my driver's door open and afterwards upon closing it I find that the door rubs and sits almost a 1/2 inch high on the opening side
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check your door bushings in the door hinge these probably need replacing. if you can lift up on door and feel play they are wore out. common issue on these if not you can put a wood block betwwen bottom of door and body and push on top of door to bend it a little to close top tighter
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
Check all 4 doors to see what works and doesn't work, be sure the interior domelight switch is set to turn on automatically when any door is open as well try the radio then open the 4 doors to see if it turns off...if your driver's side door don't work as you stated then that should be the door's "at fault".
GM built the door contact switch that's installed INSIDE the door-it's located inside the door striker/jamb area...it require removal of door trim to gain access.
However, you might want to try this visual inspection:
Check the thick wire harness located between the front-left door and door sill frame to see if any wire has been disconnected/cut or tampered with by previous owner.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
Remedy is a new inside door latch. These used to be only available thru Chevy but today NAPA has them too - pricey but what can be done about that? Inside door liner pops off with several plastic rivets designed to release with moderate pressure, a screwdriver helps but can also lead to broken rivets which are almost sure to happen with the gentlest touch anyway. Sometimes there are screws to remove around the armrest area, check from below. There will be a sheet of plastic that needs to be pulled out of the way, do it any way that can be reversed when the time comes for that. Then you'll need to drill out the rivet that holds on the old door latch and drill out that hole in the door and the hole in the new latch to use a small bolt. You'll also need to buy a proper sized bolt. The door latch slides into position in the door proper after the rivet is removed to allow movement of the entire door latch.
Then undo the links. Operational link attachments are tricky but you first swivel them out away from the rod which allows the 90 degree bend in the rod to be removed from the door latch proper.
Step by step not applicable, it's a learn as you go experiance. Different jobs and models have their unique pitfalls, sorry no free pass around those. Do pay attention to you own level of expertise here and hire it done if you don't feel that you can do it after the above discription of the process.
Later on you will need to replace the door latch proper as they are next on the list to fail. This is a slightly more difficult job, but both can be accomplished with stamina and a cool temper. These are also available from NAPA. Inside door handles fail because they are made from pot metal (zinc) which is way too soft but CHEAP. Latches fail mainly due to mis-alignment of doors that hammer out the metal part of the latch. Use a 6 foot 2by4 or other stronger lever and blocks with 2 or three friends to bend the door up so that it closes in alignment with the body if you want to prevent buying a door latch on down the road. Driving with the door open hastens this condition so don't do it.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
It could be a defective door latch (opener). In any case, when an attempt is made to open the door it causes a chain of events that will open it. It may become obvious when and after you remove the door cover to see what is exactly wrong and possibly repair it yourself. The latch is attached with links that cause the door to lock and unlock. Good Luck
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
the linkage behind the handle either the retaining clip broke or popped off need to remove the door panel to check and fix
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks I thought it might be a cable or linkage. Much thanks"
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