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No break pedal after brake job on 1990 Toyota P/U SR5 V6 rear ABS
Replaced rotors, pads and calipers then tried to bleed lines, but no pedal. Changed 2 M/C but still no pedal. After some research learned about the rear only ABS system on the truck. The rear ABS is operated from a valve hooked up to the P/S pump and regulated from a relay. After more research learned that the ABS system can be bled electronically from the relay plug with a special tool. Tried to purchase tool, but too expansive, $270.00. Called Toyota dealers, and even they have no tool, nor any idea on how to resolve problem ( they know less then I do and said they would have to research the problem before they can give cost on repairs). I don't want to tow the truck 30 miles just to find out they can't fix it. Question: ''Is there a way to bleed the system without that special tool?''
Yes, but after a gallon of brake fluid still no pedal, it goes straight to the floor on first push then gives a bit of resistance but still no pedal. Still researching, and just found out the rear ABS only functional in two wheel drive. Tomorrow will try to see if I get different results in 4 wheel drive. Thank you for your response.
Yes, but after a gallon of brake fluid still no pedal, it goes straight to the floor on first push then gives a bit of resistance but still no pedal. Still researching, and just found out the rear ABS only functional in two wheel drive. Tomorrow will try to see if I get different results in 4 wheel drive. Thank you for your response.
Yes to all. I don't get mad, but to better understand me, I've done many many brake jobs (I'm 63 years old so had plenty time to do them LOL). I gravity, vacuum, and pedal pressure bled this truck, and after days of trying I still have no pedal. The problem is not in the bleeding of the lines, but the bleeding of the ABS valve. As I said I'm going to see if in 4 wheel drive it will by pass the valve and get a pedal. Also found out that the ABS light would be on if a bad valve (mine is not) also the valve is connected to the ECU so I will have to check the ECU to see if that is the problem. Thank you again for your response.
Yes to all. I don't get mad, but to better understand me, I've done many many brake jobs (I'm 63 years old so had plenty time to do them LOL). I gravity, vacuum, and pedal pressure bled this truck, and after days of trying I still have no pedal. The problem is not in the bleeding of the lines, but the bleeding of the ABS valve. As I said I'm going to see if in 4 wheel drive it will by pass the valve and get a pedal. Also found out that the ABS light would be on if a bad valve (mine is not) also the valve is connected to the ECU so I will have to check the ECU to see if that is the problem. Thank you again for your response.
It sounds like I don't even have to ask if the rear brake shoes are adjusted up. I can check on shopkey at work tomorrow and see if they show an abs bleeding procedure. Also I'll ask my boss, He worked for Toyota in the 80's
It sounds like I don't even have to ask if the rear brake shoes are adjusted up. I can check on shopkey at work tomorrow and see if they show an abs bleeding procedure. Also I'll ask my boss, He worked for Toyota in the 80's
I didn't find much. I did find that if there is no power steering pressure to the actuator the ABS is bypassed. So if you try bleeding and test driving, try it with the p/s belt off. Also (you likely already did this many times) double check everything. I seen no pedal after brake jobs from calipers on crooked or the springs out of place.
I didn't find much. I did find that if there is no power steering pressure to the actuator the ABS is bypassed. So if you try bleeding and test driving, try it with the p/s belt off. Also (you likely already did this many times) double check everything. I seen no pedal after brake jobs from calipers on crooked or the springs out of place.
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You say you filled it with fluid after the repairs. You must also "bleed" the brake lines to purge any air that is trapped in them. Brake fluid provides the hydraulic compression that causes the brake pads to clamp to the brake rotor/drum. Air in the lines will prevent this as when the brake pedal is pressed, the fluid will simply pressurize the air in the lines and not activate the caliper/wheel cylinder. The reason you have front brakes is that modern vehicles have dual-reservoir master cylinders to prevent total brake loss in the event of a leak. This is why you still have front brakes as there is no air in those lines. You will need to bleed the rear brake lines at BOTH rear wheels to purge air rom the system. The procedure is fairly simple, though some cars with ABS have to have things done differently. I would recommend you check an online forum for you vehicle (simply Google "bleed rear brakes 20xx VW Golf) and see what comes up. It is easier to do with two people, but one can sometimes pull it off.
keep bleeding and bleed the front as well the littlest amount of air will keep pedal spongy if the abs came on after doning brakes check the abs lines and connections up front the abs lines sometimes get banged up will doing brake job the abs sensor is the wire that runs from behind the rotor to the fire wall sometimes they get hit knocked into or damaged if wiring looks good have vehicle scanned for code .the code will make it easier to pinpoint what side-- if circuit problem--or if sensor went bad most auto stores offer scanning for free
You are either low on brake fluid or you have a vacum problem. It is a long shot but possible the Master Cylinder is having an issue or an air bubble in the system. Start the vehicle and make sure it is blocked. With the engine running perform system bleeds on all four calipers. Pump 3 times then release bleed valve. You are going to need a couple bottles of brake fluid to bleed all these calipers and get the air out of the lines. You should make sure the primary vacum is connected to the master cylinder and that there are no leaks on any lines before you start the bleeding process.
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
the reson u get no pressure is that you need the special tool to bleed the ABS control hydraulic valve, u will need to have the dealer do this, air is trapped in the ABS control and until you bleed it correctly with the tool you will have no brake pressure.
Did you bleed the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder? THen next furthest, to closest last. Did u make sure the master cylinder never got low enough to draw in air? To bleed, Pumo brakes 3x, holding pedal down 1/2 way, while bleeder is opened, let air/fluid flow, shut bleeder as flow diminishes so no air gets in the line. Is the car running when u bleed brakes? It should be. If u are doing all of this u should feel your pedal coming back (getting firm). Let me know how you make out. countrycurt0
yep this is a two man job, onece you get air in the lines is better to do all four, my has abs and i was able to do it, but next time don't take anylines lose just turn the piston clockwise and you should be able to push it in.
Yes, but after a gallon of brake fluid still no pedal, it goes straight to the floor on first push then gives a bit of resistance but still no pedal.
Still researching, and just found out the rear ABS only functional in two wheel drive. Tomorrow will try to see if I get different results in 4 wheel drive.
Thank you for your response.
Yes to all. I don't get mad, but to better understand me, I've done many many brake jobs (I'm 63 years old so had plenty time to do them LOL). I gravity, vacuum, and pedal pressure bled this truck, and after days of trying I still have no pedal. The problem is not in the bleeding of the lines, but the bleeding of the ABS valve. As I said I'm going to see if in 4 wheel drive it will by pass the valve and get a pedal. Also found out that the ABS light would be on if a bad valve (mine is not) also the valve is connected to the ECU so I will have to check the ECU to see if that is the problem.
Thank you again for your response.
Thank you for trying.
Just in case you want to research more try this site:
www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake10.pdf
Thanks again
i have the same exact problem gallons of brake fluid no pressure
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