the tool is called, a timing light, and is about a $20 tool.slowly start pulling up to speed.
that includes, going up hill at wide open throttle at full power?
BTW1 , it s toyota engine. (not rare or odd at all)
engine power loss (no bad fuel) can be only 3 things
1: engine bad, lost compression (valve lash never SET:????)
2: bad spark and includes, bad timing. old spark plug wires cap .,rotor.
3: bad fueling. (under or over, weak fuel pump pressure)
a mech discovers that first.
this engine, has DIS, no distributor
and the book says, no spark timing. that means its fixed by the cam/crank sensors.
ever tune it up , using the op. guide in the glove box> (free on line)
every 60k miles a full tune up, ? if not, why do that now?
there are 2 toy engines, used, 1.6L and 1.8l and there are
unique service data for each, working with out a book (FSM)
or using alldata.com for facts, hear, means failure.
the VIN shows the 2 engines, vin 6 code or vin 8.
so does the RPO tag in glove box.
this is an EFI car, and we first look to see what type.
this car is MPI, multipoint injection,not TBI
the key fact that makes diagnosis much more easy.
the timing spec, (USA are you) is printed under the hood
open hood look up, see that? BTDC timing? 10deg BTDC?
step 9 in the FSM
"Using a fused jumper wire, connect terminals E1
together at the DLC." (i use a paper clip)
this is the timing freeze jumper allowing you to adjust the distributor to hood spec timing.
ok , compresion is above 150psi WOT.
ok ,tuned up, 60k mile list, (filters and spark parts ,dont skip fuel)
ok , we made it to step 3 bad fueling
1: too much fuel
2: too little. fuel.
we check that the coolant thermostat hits and holds 180F or more. HOLDS ! if not , all else is useless.
of temps are low it will flood with fuel... bingo.
1: low fuel pressure.
2: bad O2
3: clogged injectors, bad fuel?
1: too high fuel pressure. (bad reg)
2: bad 02
3: leaking injectors. (2 causes)
that is the flow, the logical flow.
for sure if the ECU is getting bad inputs, the injection rates
will be wrong. and some ECU go to limphome.
ever lean to read the ECU flash codes?
this engine DOHC the 2 cams are gear driven side by side
but has belt from crank to cam.
it lasts for 60k miles, and slips. bad.
its on the service schedule. to replace it.
if it slips power is lost about 80% or more. bad cam,is result.
my online source is weak on GEO.;s
so can not tell if this engine uses a MAF sensor
it too ,dead or weak can cause huge power loss.
Toy says 4A is map system
toy shows 7A as,stroked out 4A, and has MAP too
MAPs never fail (well, hose leaks?) MAFs do.(easy)
they used 2 engines all years. second gen car.
1.6 L 4A-FE I4
, 105 hp (78 kW)
1.8 L 7A-FE I4
, 105-115 hpconclusions:
can be easy as a tuneup? duh factor, 1.
or bad fuel pump. or reg. bad.?
bad wiring to pump. low voltage to pump.
to find it , we have lots of tests.
doing them in order saves time
in a real shop we have 5 gas, and start at the tail pipe
end and work forward.
eg; all this puppy is real rich and expells oxygen. (misfire)
DIY is a unique way to fix cars
DIY with no tools is a comic show.
no way to use alldata.com (use it)