Question about Chevrolet 2500
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the fuel pressure, bad fuel pump or sock on the fuel pump and fuel filter check spark plugs and check distributor cap, a fuel pump is $273.00 or a bad injector $110.99 or BWD Fuel Vapor Pressure Sensor for $35.99 any of these parts could cause the problem, so without doing a fuel pressure test it is a guess, if the vapor switch is bad it could cause a long crank time if the fuel pump is bad it has a check valve in the fuel pump, if the check valve goes bad the pump can't maintain fuel pressure so on start up the fuel has to pump from the tank all the way up to the fuel rail, if the injectors is bad it could leak after engine shut down and cause you to lose fuel rail pressure. Also the fuel vapor sensor could be stuck open and could cause the problem, all need to be tested, you can rent the fuel pressure tester from AutoZone or advance auto or Shucks they return your money when you bring the tool back as long as you buy the parts to repair it from them. That would be the first thing I would check fuel pump pressure and if you replace the pump then change the fuel sock as well. That model was not meant to burn ethanol and can kill the fuel sock the fuel pump and filter.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
SOURCE: Gm carb 305 timing problem
On the distributor, Check for advance weighrs. As your rpm increases the weights advance the timing. If they are rusted or a spring is streched or broken you will have to correct that. Hold the drive end and rotate thw rotor end back and forth to make dure the advance plate works freely and not sticking. It should spring back when you release it after turning it.What yr. is this rngine?Carburated, never mind. Ok, making sure the distributor is all free and cleaned up. Turn the dist. upside down and shake to make sure nothing falls out. You seem to have the timing thing down, but let me go through it just so I keep my train of thought.Actually I'm thinking out loud. #1 cyl on comp stroke-timing marks set to 8 degreesBTC. GO TO DISTRIBUTORdeternine #1 plug wire tower. Regardless of distributor body position as long as little tin window is around 6 o clock, Insert the distributor so the rotor is pointing at #1 tower.the mark you made so you know where that is..Should be @ 4 or5 o clock. When you drop the distributorin you will notice it turn so compensate soby dropping it a tooyh or two back.The rotor should be in the sweep of the #1 tower when you rotate the distributor. Hook up the coil wire and put the clamp on the distrutor but don't tighten it.With ignition on, #1 plug in #2 wire, lay the plug down on a good ground. Now slowly rotate the dristributor until #1 pops out a spark for you. You may have to go back and forth until you feel comfortable with when the coil fires. I don't know if you have a vacuum advance or not, but the vacuum advance points in the direction of distributor rotation. You want the spark to hit as you are rotating the distributor against the rotor rotation. Now the spark will hit at 8 degrees BTC before any weight or vacuum plays into it. Snug down your distributor and if you do have a little tin window, Stick the ole' in there and adjust the points to 28-32 degrees dwell. If no window, no sweat. It's an HEI, right? Let me know if you run into trouble. You can check your max advance if you like butgoing by that is assuming it's ok when it's not doing 3000 rpms. Better we assume the max is ok and know the bottom (start and low speed) is right on. Good Luck.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
the power steering lines are very short hoses approximately 8 inches long that go from the power steering pump down to the steering box, which is located on the frame, just below the pump. The brake lines run from the master cylinder(where you fill it with fluid on the drivers side firewall) down to the frame, and then follow the frame both directions; both to the front end and the rear end, along the drivers side frame rail, just on the inside of it. The fuel line runs along the same path to the rear.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
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