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Malfunction with thermal fans on Rainbow RB145A (as a result we have anoverheating engine, fans don't come on)

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Run fault codes and replace the faulty components. quick check run power and earth leads directly from the battery to the fans to ensure they are not seized up then work back checking relays and fuses.

Posted on Apr 21, 2013

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1 Answer

Coolant boil in the reservor


Check to see if the thermal switch (usually mounted within the radiator shrouding, near the cooling fan is working properly.. some of these allow the fan to run on after the car is off to continue a slow cool down of the engine. sometimes when this is malfunctioning, the coolant will boil back into the res.

Jul 29, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cooling system fan don't come on


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    Hi,

    I'm Ben and -- hopefully -- I can provide some meaningful assistance.
  • Check if it is getting power. Check fuse No. 34.
  • Check the cooling fan relay.
  • Run engine to bring temp up then turn off engine, disconnect harness,Visually inspect for pinched wires.
  • Test for power with a test light(have to turn ignition on).
  • If you have power could be a faulty fan (try spinning it to jump start it and see if it takes off).
  • No power could be a faulty sensor or bad wiring.
  • My experience with this type of problem points towards a malfunctioning temp switch if everything has checked out at this point.
  • It's located at lower cooling house, bottom right.
  • To Test that you need to bridge or jump the terminals. If you hold the terminal with the fastener on top and flat side left.
  • Test for power first, Ignition on
  • Left side female controls 1st speed jump them and see if fan works.
  • Right side female controls 2nd speed jump them and see if fan works.
  • If your fan works replace the Temp switch if not. and you do have power check out the fans.
  • if you don't have power chase the wires back looking for a broken, burnt or pinched line.

Jun 11, 2012 | 1999 Audi A6

1 Answer

My 1983 toyota ran hot now it wont start


a malfunctioning coolant temperature sensor will often send incorrect information to the vehicle's on-board computer. As a result, when the vehicle reaches a normal operating speed the sensor may relay an incorrect signal to the computer that the engine is overheating resulting in engine shutdown. The vehicle will not be able to start again until the engine has completely cooled. also check coolant level and make sure the coolant radiater fans are working. check for any leak in coolant system, that would cause car to overheat.

May 02, 2012 | 1983 Toyota Pickup

2 Answers

Overheating fan not coming on


Change your Fan Clutch. If the fan is not kicking on to move air through the engine compartment then it needs to be replaced.
The fan clutch is attached to the front of the fan (the part of the fan that is closest to the radiator) it usually looks like a round piece of metal with fins on it. You don't have to take off the fan shroud or anything if you dont have to. in most cases you can squeeze your hands back behind there to get at the bolts securing the clutch to the fan. you may have to take the fan off as well. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Sep 01, 2011 | Mazda 626 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Started my c180 merc up this morning put it in reverse it started to judder & smell of rotten eggs. Turned it off started back up every thing seems fine. Year 2003


This sounds like your catalytic converter has a problem. I'm guessing that it probably blocked momentarily. The question is of course, what blocked it? The answer is potentially that some part of the substrate in the converter failed and blocked it, then blew out. This is potentially bad news because if it is breaking up, then it may well block and strand you at some point. I would have it looked at as soon as you can.

I've pulled the following information from http://www.catalyticconverter.org/failure/index.htm
Hope it gives you some guidance

Catalytic converter failures typically fall into one of four categories:
1. Thermal failure (overheating)
2. Plugged substrate
3. Thermal shock
4. Physical damage

Thermal failure is most often caused when excessive raw fuel comes into contact with the catalyst, and "burns" in the converter instead of in the engine. The high quantity of fuel generates temperatures well in excess of the capacity of the converter, causing meltdown of the ceramic monolith. The melted ceramic could block the exhaust path, leading to a significant loss of engine power. Visible symptoms include heat-related discoloration of the converter shell.

Potential causes of thermal failure include: misfire, malfunctioning oxygen sensor, fuel delivery issue, improper choke setting/operation, and ECU malfunction.
A plugged or contaminated substrate can be the result of an overly rich air/fuel mixture, radiator sealant, and oil or antifreeze entering the exhaust flow. The resultant carbon deposits restrict the operation - and ultimately the flow characteristics - of the converter by coating the unit's reactive surface. This degrades the converter's ability to perform its chemical conversion process, leading to potentially illegal levels of HC, CO, and NOx.

Root causes of this problem are a malfunctioning O2 sensor, plugged or inoperable fuel injectors, piston blow-by, leaking head gasket, broken or frozen choke or carburetor float, excessive cranking time, and repeated incidences of running out of gas.

Thermal shock occurs when a fully heated converter suddenly is "cold-quenched," such as coming into contact with snqw or ice. This leads to sudden contraction of the converter housing, which can cause cracks and disintegration of the ceramic substrate. Symptoms include a "rattling'' sound when the converter is tapped with a fist or mallet (monolith-type converters only).

Physical damage, caused by running over road debris, collisions and other impacts, is usually easy to diagnose. This type of damage can break up the ceramic substrate or cause restriction that changes the flow characteristics of the converter or impacts the efficiency of the catalyst.

Jul 06, 2011 | 2003 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

2 Answers

What is it when your coolant fan doesnt shut off


Sounds like your relay has frozen on the on position. Buy a new relay and put it in the fuse box. If that don't help, then check you wires that go to your fan to see if they are touching anything. Or if you see an open wire w/o any insulation on it. Hope this helps, James Booth

May 17, 2011 | 1991 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 2002 4x4 Grand Cherokee Laredo 6 cyl. automatic. Engine sounds like the engine is idling high but it is only 700 RPM.at idle. Does this sound like a harmonic balancer?


It may be the radiator fan making all that racket. Usually when the engine is cold, the thermal fan clutch allows more "slip" --- this allows the fan to turn slower than the water pump pulley (less load on the engine). When the fan clutch detects more engine heat, it reduces slippage of the fan clutch and this results in the fan turning "faster". It's actually turning at the same speed as the water pump pulley. The "roaring" noise is the result of the fan pulling in more air through the radiator.

If the noise is present at all times, whether or not the engine is hot or cold, then the fan clutch might be malfunctioning.


I hope this helps.


Have a nice day !!!

Apr 08, 2011 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

I have a 01' New Beetle my cooling fans come on high speed when the ignition is turned on and stay on while the motor is running. Have already changed out the coolant temp sensor, control module, radiator...


I finally fixed the problem. It wasn't the Water pump, or the Fan switch or the Green Temp Switch or the Fan Control Module but the "BLACK" NOT White, 2 Pin Thermal Switch 112c" It does sit in between 3 collant hoses where the upper radiator hose comes together with 2 smaller hoses. Kinda looks like a peace sign and in the center sits the 2 Pin Thermal Switch. It's not a AC Cut off switch which even the dealer tried to sell me and which I actually ordered from ECS tuning. The AC Cut out switch is "White" and even thou looks the same in size and form will not fix the issue. I was able to read the part number off the old switch which is 357919369F which when I looked it up on the ECS tuning web site did bring me to the right switch. Black with a green stripe on the top rim. I ordered that baby and it came in yesterday. Took the White switch out and put the Black switch in and guess what the fans no longer turn on when the ignition is in position 2 and now the fans come on when they are suppose to and don't sound like a jet engines afterburner. Simple 20 dollar part solved the problem. I think a lot of people are getting the wrong part from the dealer since this part is very hard to find. Everyone I asked wanted to give me that white sensor AC cut out switch but that isn't it. Here is the link to the correct switch hopefully it will help someone avoid a bit of frustration. http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/357919369F/ES248948/

May 15, 2010 | 2001 Volkswagen Beetle

2 Answers

Fan continues running after turning off ignition


HI. This will, generally, be the result of the cooling fan switch.

The cooling fan switch on most electric fans monitors coolant temperature signals from the engine control computer. When the engine is cool, the switch opens to keep the fan from spinning. When the engine is warm, the switch closes, thus, turning the fan on for cooling.

I would advise to Inspect the cooling fans(thermal switch),wires and connections. Cooling fan switch problems are often caused by faulty wiring or loose or corroded connections rather than the failure of the switch itself. If the wires or connections are bad, replace them. If you think the switch is defective, it should be tested.

The electric fan cooling switch, or thermal switch, can be tested by placing the element in a bucket of water. Heat the water to approximately 207°-216°F (97°-102°C) and connect the switch leads to an ohmmeter(make sure to keep the switch leads out of the water). The switch should have no continuity until the temperature reaches this level. Let the water cool off below 207°F (97°C) and the switch should lose continuity. If the switch has no continuity at any temperature, replace it.

NOTE_The thermal switch is located on the top of the radiator, usually on the passenger side.


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Dec 16, 2009 | 1998 Volvo C70

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