Question about 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

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Noises problem 2006 Chevy Cobalt 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automati

Noises problem
2006 Chevy Cobalt 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 18762 miles

My car is making a knocking or tapping noise when I drive it, it seemsto make the noise in the drivers front tire area behind the fire wall.The noise gets really worse when i turn the steering wheel just alittle to either side, it is really bad when i do this around 55MPH.

We have changed the driver side axle and the hub bearing assembly but it did not help.

I have not noticed anything else that makes with worse other than onlyturning the steering wheel just until i feel pressure on the wheel. Youcan hear the noise slow down as the speed goes down until you dropbelow 30MPH.

The noise reminds me of a shaft being warped and and hitting anotherpiece of metal or a jack hammer but i looked the front end over andcannot find anything.

If you have any idea's please help

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  • 8 more comments 
  • fields5302 Mar 12, 2009

    I have changed the tire and cap to the other side thinking that maybe it would follow, but it didn't.

  • fields5302 Mar 12, 2009

    Sorry i will have her take it to the shop and check the rotors. I had actually thought about swapping the rotors around.

  • fields5302 Mar 12, 2009

    would it hurt if i did? I just thought that would tell me if it was the rotor.

  • fields5302 Mar 12, 2009

    I wish there was a way for you to hear it but it is not a constant sound. i will be checking the rotors for sure. i was afraid that there was something else in the suspension.

  • fields5302 Apr 02, 2009

    well folks none of these solutions have worked. I have replaced the entire brake system and the knocking is still there but now it does it when the steering wheel is straight and still really bad when applying the brake.

  • fields5302 Apr 03, 2009

    i replaced the rotor, pads and even the caliper. it has stock wheels and i tried driving it without the caps, it still made the noise

  • Anonymous Apr 17, 2009

    My cobalt makes a knocking noise when i hit a small bump. The dealership, while under the regular warranty fixed things but never fixed the problem. I took it to a regular mechanic shop and the drivers side is missing a bushing causing the frame to knock against steel when i hit a bump. It is an easy fix and was quite visible to me when it was on a hoist. The dealership blamed the noise on a lose peice in the steering and the hubcaps.

  • biggredj May 22, 2009

    i have the same problem and thought it was the wheel bearings at first, but after a front end inspection they said it was struts but it does the same thing to really bad banging noise when bracking and hitting rough road, so ill let ya know if struts helped...

  • Chris Meek Jul 02, 2013

    1) testing front wheel drive car wheel bearings procedure while driving and it makes noise give the stearing a jab to left dont wipe out just a lil jab if it goes quiet when u jab it left it is the RIGHT wheel bearing if it goes quite when u jab it right its the left.... also wheel bearings make a wurring noise and can get loud the louder the noise the tighter u hold that wheel .. it wont fall off but it will wobble when it lets go...... 2) the noise u hear on pot holes and bumps is one of 2 things (A) is the front stabilizer links or the sway bar bushings !!! i9f bad enough u will notice constant correction of stearing on a straight road key words sway bar and stabilizer links which go from sway bar to strut suspension the other cause of such noise is possibility of upper strut mount rubbers being gripped or toast! procedure to cheking that is open hood and imaguine a center line in middle of rim going vertically to center rim now under hood u might see a plastic round cap covering them and it could be 6 or so inches in diameter usually black just grab it and pull up dont chip a nail now ...lol any way hope a few buddys are around and now one on each side try to bounce the front end up and down giver bunce thatr ****** listen for your noise u might need it on some top safe quality ramps but for god sakes put something as a secondary support incase the ramps fail i have had rotten ones that the paint hid the weak spots and i have had them flip over b4 so please block rear wheels and take all safety precautions and block all wheels front and back that are on ground cuz that problem ur having is not worth your injury or death.... listen and visually look for noise sway bars have been broken b4 rare but possible sorry 3 things possible as for your tap ticky noise go get oil change most people neglect service of their cars if its a hollow knock or knack knack noise send her to scrap go get sumptin new and i recomend toyota honda or e bike...lol and in that order for dependability I really lost myself and im hoping i gave u advise that is helpful have a blast and u will love being better then a gm licensed teckie

  • Chris Meek Jul 02, 2013

    and buddy has a point control arm bushing is another possibility as well if ur a self repair guy and want to know how to test them its easy but i will notr boar u with that ifd u want asik

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Have a mechanic check lower control arm bushing at the rear of the control arm.It is a horizontal bushing retained by a vertical bolt clamping it to frame.The tire will move more forward and back more than it should during braking. canuck mechanic.

Posted on May 07, 2009

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Could be a bushing in the front suspension.  Mine wore out and made a knocking pinging rattle sound like it was either coming from the left front wheel or the steering wheel.  Turned out to be a bushing.

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

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Maybe the wind is catching a loose side molding.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

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Had the same problem, went to chevy and them look at it. Sorry to tell you but you put in to much money and work. Its your steering shaft, only about $400.00 parts and labor and plus a front wheel allignment and your good to go.

Posted on May 18, 2009

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Wow, sounds like a good one, my only suggestion would be, try changing or machining the brake rotor and double checking to make sure all the caliper hardware is torqued up tight. Possibly a tire? Try switching side to side.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Dave  C
    Dave C Mar 12, 2009

    So you have tried replacing or machining the rotor? The rating you gave me isn't really appropriate until you have proven me wrong. If you jump the gun and give guys lousy marks, you will have a tough time getting help. If you don't want to try what I've suggested, just ignore the rating.

  • Dave  C
    Dave C Mar 12, 2009

    "Sorry i will have her take it to the shop and check the rotors. I had actually thought about swapping the rotors around."

    Swapping rotors? Wouldn't be something I'd do, but have at her, you obviously already have it all figured out.


  • Dave  C
    Dave C Mar 12, 2009

    You should never swap rotors because the wear pattern is matched to the pads. Technically speaking, you shouldn't even put a new rotor where there are old pads, but at least if you do this, the freshly machined surface of the new rotor will likely break in an old pad fairly quickly. Rotors and pads can become glazed and have very odd wear characteristics, because of this, they can create very odd noise problems. Why go to all the work of taking both sides apart? Just pull the one rotor, have it machined at any shop, or buy a new one. I just checked, I can get them for $28.00 each. It can't be more than 20 bucks to get it turned. This way you eliminate the problem in one corner without creating a problem on the other side. If you do this make sure the rotor is cleaned with "brake cleaner" or methyl hydrate before you re-install it.

  • Dave  C
    Dave C Apr 03, 2009

    Do you have non-stock wheels on the car? The "entire brake system" is a little vague, what exactly did you replace on the front and were they new or used parts?




  • Dave  C
    Dave C Apr 03, 2009

    You say; you replaced "the rotor" so I assume this means the one on the noisy corner. Just to confirm though, was it new or machined, or a second hand rotor? If it was new, was it cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove the rust inhibitor? What I'm trying to get at here is, what was the finish on that rotor that was replaced? Just the fact that the noise has changed and is actually worse has got to indicate that it's related to the brakes. The answer is here somewhere.

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Sounds like a bad tire to me...Of course without hearin it its hard to say.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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