I have a 1997 f250 xlt and i need new rotors. i tryed just pulling them off after getting the brakes out of the waybut nothing happend then i took the axel nut off and still nothing. i beat on it with a hammer and it wouldn't budge i actually had to take the three bolts out from behind it and took tha barring and all. is this all one piece or should the the two actually seperate? the rotors look like they have never been off the truck. i have never had this problem with any other vehicles. could it be the rotor and barring are just so old that they are gulded together? thanks, chuck
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it looks like they are still using a floating rotor for 4wh drive
if so by removing brake caliper & mounting bracket the rotor will slide off spray down around rotor & hab with rust penetrant,couple of taps/hits on rotor face some rotors have a taped hole(see picture 2 o'clock)using 2 bolts screw in to assist removal dont see any special tools being needed good luck
It may surprise you to know that using an impact to install the wheels can cause uneven tightening and thus resulting in later warping of the rotor as it heats up and cools down depending on construction of the rotor.
I would have the rotors checked for run out again. Or have someone with a brake lathe chock the rotor up and verify this warpage.
In my oppinion Factory pads are far better than most aftermarket pads. You can rule out the rotors by taking them down to a mechanic that has a lave. once they start turning the rotors they will be able to tell if the rotors are warped. If your rotor thickness is under the factory minimum they could have become warped over time, which would explain why the problem got worse over time. In that case you need to purchase new rotors and have them machined. Just make sure you replace the old pads with new ones.
hello i think you should have the system power bleed with a power bleeder theres a good chance the plunger in the proportioning valve is sticking if you have this truck power bleed it will push out the old fluid replacing with new usually if theres any type of contaminates especially oil ,or power stewering put into master by mistake it would swell any rubber piece to the point of a hard pedal and nothing working then you would have to replace everthing like your being told the only thing you could still use would be the lines wich would have to be cleaned with denature alcahol i would have it bleed in sequence firthest tire down to the closest to the master goodluck
That 1&1/4 nut holds the axle shaft to the hub. It does not have to be removed to pull the brake rotor. If there are no screws holding the rotor to the hub, it is probably stuck. Tap the area on the rotor between the lug studs with a hammer. This should get the rotor loose.