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Re: what do I do with my manual hubs
Here is an easy way to tell if and when they are not engaged. Look on the inside of the axle knuckle where you see the the axle come out of the axle tube. Reach in and turn the axle. If the axle turns your hub on that side is not engaged. Mark the position on the hub. Then move to the other side and perform the same process and mark the hub. Just use a little dot of fingernail polish to mark the unlocked position on the hub for future reference.
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Does yours have AUTO hubs, there are some luxory models have auto hubs, these rely on difference in drive on the axles,(wheel spin) others have manual locking hubs, these actually need to be engaged manually, these require you to twist the centre of the hub to engage and disengage the front hubs, these sometimes require you to reverse to disengage properly, Rodeo had both depending on model. Happy New Year
So I would think you have locking hubs on it? So you lock the hubs in and then put it in 4wd and driving sometimes it stays in 4wd when you want to shift it back into 2wd? Sounds like the shifter inside the transfer case is hanging up. In some cases if you drive faster than 50mph and try to shift it back to 2wd it won't do it, unlock the axle and back the truck up to reline the spline gear in the transfer case. I would request the transfer case be replace since its under warranty. And as far as Ford telling you they can't do nothing look in your owners manual and call the complaint office and tell them what dealer you went to. Also I would go back and talk to the manager sounds like someone doesn't want to do his job.
You can download a PDF of the owners manual from Ford https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
The shift on the fly ( Electronic with the switch on the dash or Mechanical with the lever ) is all you need to do. The hubs autolock once the truck is in 4WD. Check the page on the shift, 2WD into 4WD is 45 MPH ( think that is it ) or lower if the temp is 32* F or higher ( it is slower in colder weather ). Shifting into 4L is stop, place truck in Neutral or Park, then shift into 4L. Please verify in the manual, this is just what I recall reading.
The 4wd works by Vacuum lines(rubber hoses) that uses air to lock the front hubs in.
Usually the rubber hose line behind the front tires at hub to the frame become dry rot,cracked---replace them and try it.
If hoses still good or replaced and still not working----there is a Vacuum pump under the hood near brake master cylinder(driver side on inner fender near windshield)---It looks like the size of a "D" flashlight battery with hoses attached and a single wire connected to bottom of it----sometimes these little pumps go bad too.
Other than that the Front hubs(automatic) might be bad(like a leaky air bag that wont inflate to lock hubs)---this can be a costly replace.
One last resort to avoid all this hassle----get a manual "WARN" locking hubs put on car(about $150)---this way you can lock the hubs manually by a 1/4 turn slot at each front tire to go in 4wd when needed.
Do you have automatic locking hubs? Do you need to turn hubs on wheels in order to have 4 wheel drive work? If all you do to get in 4wd is move shifter, then you have automatic locking hubs. The clicking indicates that the hubs are not fully disingaging. To check, block rear wheels, jack front up, and turn tire. the axle should not be turning...if it is, hub is still ingaged....time for new hubs.....if hubs are bad, and you want to save money, you can purchase a set of manual hubs made by (WARN)...its more than half the cost, but you will have to turn hubs to lock and unlock manually. Note...you still need to use the gear selector to put and take out 4wd.
First thing to do is engage the lock out hubs on the front axels if it has them, they should say "free" or "lock". Turn them to lock. Then inside the cab on the floor hump will be the 2H 4H N 2L slector. Pull the slector lever into 4H and you are in 4WD high range. Do not drive the truck in 4WD on dry pavement, only gravel/dirt or snow. The minor difference between the front and rear wheel speeds will "wrap up" the driveline and make it hard to pull the lever out of 4WD. It is recommended that you back the truck up at least 10 feet after you remove it from 4WD to "unwrap" the drivelines. Your choice as to disengaging the front hubs, but it will save wear and tear on the front axels and dirveshaft if you disengage.