Question about 2004 Honda Civic 1.7

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Crank shaft Seal keeps leaking for honda civic 1.7

The car came in with a blown Crank seal. Replaced it now 3 times and it still keeps pouring out. have checked and done all correct procedure for install. Checked shaft, removed oil pump cleaned replaced all seals.. Used Genuine Oil seal and still leaking.. its now the 3rd time.Seems to have High Oil Pressure. What else can i check.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak on the rotor timing out put shaft

If you mean the camshaft seal, yes, you would need to pull the timing belt and sprocket off, and if you are anywhere near the service interval for the belt, replace it and the water pump (unless the water pump is very easy to service, and the tensioner.  
You will probably need a (gear/sprocket) puller to get the sprocket off and a another type of (seal) puller to get the seal out.  You could probably extract the old seal with a screwdriver, but it's not recommended.  Get a Haynes manual (around $20) before you even contemplate doing this youself. If you haven't done this before, are mechanically inclined. and have all the tools, you will spend about 1/2 a day to do either the cam seal by itself, or the seal, timing belt, tensioner and water pump.  Once you have it all apart, the last three components will only add an hour to the job, and you won't be stranded when the timing belt breaks.
good luck ..ajm

Posted on Nov 01, 2008

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HondaAl
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: oil around spark plugs on 1992 honda accord

Yes the oil can cause the car to lose spark, the oil leak could be caused by the valve cover gaskets around the spark openings, but 9 times out of 10 it is the spark plug tube "O" rings. The top of the valve train comes off of the head, the "O" rings are between the two halves, that will fix the oil leak.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 1129 Answers

SOURCE: Honda s2000, 2001 loose of

Sounds like an ignition component failure check for proper resistance through primary and secondary ignition coil windings, refer to service repair manual for exact specs, also the ignitor magnetic pick up may be not up to snuff, the only other ignition component to replace or check is the ignition module and/or plug wires themselves, sometimes when extreme demand is put on the ignition system the plug wires must be high quality and completely isolated from one another. Spark plug wires when routing cannot come in contact with one another in the slightest proximity.

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

  • 881 Answers

SOURCE: I have a oil leak ever since i bought this car.

NO if you have been using oil and loosing oil from all the seals and rocker cover and sump gasket then its caused by a thing called BACK PRESSURE,and that is caused by the piston rings worn, or broken top compression rings and a lip in the bore causing the ring gap to be about
6thou per inch causing the back pressure which in turn blowes oil out of all seals and gaskets ..
So take out the breather pipe from the rocker cover and let it blow into a paper towel for 2 minutes and if oil fumes come out the rings are worn.
Plus get a compression test on all cylinders and see if there down to 100 PSI or less.
The new head bolts should be replaced as they could be streached
threads, but not your problem this time
Let me know how you get on ASAP Ron

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

  • 490 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 1989 honda accord dx with a oil pan

they don't use gaskets on oil sumps its sealant glue and yes u will have to reapply it when you put the sump back on, and what do u mean by main seal? do you mean the head gasket?

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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probably the crank seal that the balancer runs against to keep the oil in the motor. you will have to pull the balancer off then pry the seal out and tap the new one into the timing cover. take a look to make sure as it could be the oil pan gasket. clean area and run car until you see oil coming out.

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what engine.? lots of engines, used. and 21 models of civic, USA.
its usually.
1: valve cover, (yes, most can leak from top down behind the belt.
2: cam seals
3: crank end seal
4: oil pump seals.
6: oil pan ( last choice)

finding oil leaks takes hard work , clean, it find it .
or use the dye kits.

gravity and wind, allows it to go where ever IT wants.
so it must be clean first to find it.. see?
or use the dye kits, it shows a live leak best.

ever look here?
http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=1997-civic-2-dx-4at&sn=&b=E++09&dl=

question, at the 60k mile service points. you check lash, settings.
with a new timing belt. and at such point, a new valve cover gasket gets fitted, did you? if yes, its not leaking if not>????
the front edge of the VC gasket, leaks down behind what i call
the VC leak hidder, tin pan. plate. behind the cam cog
is a plate, and the VC leaks down from there to the cam seal
then down front of engine, then past crank seal the, to cover.
seen this on all most all OHC engines...
cause, nobody does the 60k or does it and uses the old gaskets.
id look there first. but id dont have service history.
start high work down due to gravity.....
the FSM is here.
see that too. "free" too
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/

Dec 17, 2013 | 1997 Honda Civic

1 Answer

I replaced front drive axle (pass. side) and seal on 1998 accord. Is now leaking where shaft goes into tranny. What could be the problem. Did not leak prior this replacement.


well, if the seal leaks , it can be many reasons.
1: bad seal.
2: damage to seal bore hole done by not using proper tool and scraping the bore. (#1 , install fail)
3: cheap flebay no name parts ? or seals. (junk is junk)
4: shaft is damaged,
5: bearing worn allowing (bouncing) seal to get beat to death.

good seals fail for #5 reason, top reasons, all machines.

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Take valve cover gasket bolt out replace... An when you do the lower crank seal you have to take off oil pan.. Big job but it can be done..

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Oil leak on the rotor timing out put shaft


If you mean the camshaft seal, yes, you would need to pull the timing belt and sprocket off, and if you are anywhere near the service interval for the belt, replace it and the water pump (unless the water pump is very easy to service, and the tensioner.  
You will probably need a (gear/sprocket) puller to get the sprocket off and a another type of (seal) puller to get the seal out.  You could probably extract the old seal with a screwdriver, but it's not recommended.  Get a Haynes manual (around $20) before you even contemplate doing this youself. If you haven't done this before, are mechanically inclined. and have all the tools, you will spend about 1/2 a day to do either the cam seal by itself, or the seal, timing belt, tensioner and water pump.  Once you have it all apart, the last three components will only add an hour to the job, and you won't be stranded when the timing belt breaks.
good luck ..ajm

Oct 30, 2008 | 1996 Honda Civic

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