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Oil leaking at filter housing 2006 nissan 3.5

Oil leak at oil filter housing

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Oil Leak from oil filter

Seems to be a common problem.
there are two "O" rings a small one inside, and a larger one in a shallow groove where the housing mates to the block.
Would be an easy fix, except for the fact that one nut is almost impossible to remove unless the engine mount is removed.
My 2002 Kia Sportage developed the same problem, which I originally thought was because the oil filter was not tight.
it is a poor design, as the original O ring should have been made so it stayed more flexible IMO.

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

glennsmart
  • 801 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak?

Whoa whoa ... You've said that the car takes 7 quarts of oil. That's 14 pints. Depending on which engine variant is fitted, engine oil capacity is either:

  • 5.75 litres + 0.4 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • Turbo - 3.85 litres + 0.6 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • These figures are for a UK 3 litre version of the 960
If you've filled the car with 7 quarts of engine oil that's almost twice as much oil as should be in the engine. Did you mean pints when you wrote quarts?

If you've filled it with 7 quarts it's overfull. Way too full. Check your oil dipstick - remove it, wipe it clean and then dip the oil level. At the bottom of the dipstick there is a flattened wider part. The oil level should not be below the bottom of this marker, and nor should it be above it. If the oil level is way above the flattened marker bar - you're overfull and will have to drain some oil out of the engine. An overfilled engine will try and blow oil out from wherever it can as the oil system will over-pressurised.

Ok .. so there's no problem with the engine compression. The crankcase isn't overfilled with oil (the crankcase is known as the oil sump in the UK). There's no oil fouling of the plugs and the car isn't burning oil, just leaking it. There's no misfires or running

If the engine isn't overfilled with oil there may be a problem with a broken/sticking piston ring or piston/cylinder. That high oil loss you mention seems severe. A problem with a piston/ring/cylinder can allow the compression to leak past the rings/piston into the engine oil sump and pressurise it. Under pressure, the oil will try and leak to atmosphere from anywhere it can.

A blue smoky exhaust is also an indication of piston/ring problems. A quick check is to start the car. If there's a cloud of blue smoke at start up which clears quickly, it's like to be worn valve guides. If, when driving the car with a warm engine there's blue smoke on acceleration - it points to a problem with rings/piston.

A quick check is to remove the spark plugs. Is there engine oil on one or more of them? An oiled up plug indicates that the engine oil is finding its way up past the rings/piston - and if oil can find its way up to a spark plug, then exhaust gasses/compressed fuel/air can find its way into the engine oil sump and pressurise it.

Another quick check is to start the engine and remove the oil dipstick. If fumes are 'chugging' out of the tube or oil is spitting out, that's another sure-fire sign that the oil sump is becoming pressurised due to a piston ring/piston/cylinder problem.

If you possess or can borrow an engine compression tester there is a further test you can do yourself to confirm whether or not there are piston/ring problems. Basically, a compression tester is just a gauge that screws into the cylinder head in place of the spark plug.

Warm the engine for 5 minutes so that the pistons expand fully in the bores.
Remove the spark plugs
Fit the compression tester into No1 cylinder and crank the engine for 10 seconds. Make a note of the compression reading on the gauge.
Do the same for each cylinder.

Here's an example of what you might find (the figures are for example only)
Cylinder Reading
1 115
2 120
3 118
4 95
5 96
6 117

Figures vary, but there should not be more than a 10% difference between the readings.
In the example above you can see that cylinders 4 and 5 have readings that are well below those of the other cylinders. This is indicating problems within those two cylinders. The lower compression could be due to a head/gasket fault or piston ring/piston problem. A split or worn exhaust valve in the head may cause low compression, a misfire and uneven running but it won't cause the engine oil sump/crankcase to pressurise. Now, some fine tuning to locate the exact problem:

Put a liberal squirt of oil into each cylinder - something like Redex, WD40 or engine oil.Put a cloth over each spark plug hole and spin the engine to get rid of the excess oil. The idea is that the oil you have squirted into the piston bores will form a 'seal' around the outside of the piston/rings.

Do the compression tests again and note the readings. If the readings go up significantly it indicates that the rings/pistons/bore has a problem. Readings that go up significantly are due to the oil forming a seal around the piston which raises the compression whilst testing. Here's an example:Cylinder Reading on 1st test 2nd test
1 115 118
2 120 121
3 118 120
4 95 110 Significant rise - more than 10%
5 96 98
6 117 119

Ok .. all this means is that cylinder 4 has compression problems due to the rings/piston/bore. The 2nd compression reading (with the oil squirted in) is higher simply because the oil formed a seal. Cylinder number 5 still has a low reading which didn't increase significantly on the 2nd 'wet' (when oil is added) test. This suggests that the problem is an exhaust valve/head gasket/head problem.

If there had been no significant increase in the reading on number 4 cylinder, this would suggest valve/gasket head problem. Low readings on adjoining cylinders (and which don't increase with the 2nd compression 'wet' oil test) would indicate a faulty head gasket between those two cylinders.

I'll continue this article ... ran out of word space

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

thefazool
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Oil leaks from the oil filter adapter

If it is not the suggested gasket that is leaking then it is the oil pressure switch located exactly above the oil filter adapter. The black plastic housing could have developed a crack and oil will ooze downward and drip off the bottom of the adapter. I had this problem and changing the oil pressure switch took care of it.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

  • 247 Answers

SOURCE: Need to remove oil filter housing - oil leaking

This is not an easy repair in your driveway, but can be done. 1st thing, have you checked to see if the oil filter is the issue or is it the drain plug? If its the oil filter housing gasket, you will need to remove the filter. The housing is held in place by the threaded bolt assy that the filter screws onto. You will need to remove that bolt, remove the coolant hoses. Clean the engine block surfaces, for the new gasket to mate to, clean the cooling housing surfaces, install the bolt through the housing, and install the gasket onto it. Then install the bolt/housing into the block and tighten the bolt. Install the coolant hoses, oil filter. Fill the cooling system with the coolant that you removed. Fill the engine with oil, start and check for leaks.

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Volkswagon Jetta GLS oil leak around the oil filter housing

there really isnt one it is not hard to figure out just take it off and look at it youll figure it out

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

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1 Answer

Oil leak from oil filter housing


Your oil filter is too tight,causing the rubber gasket to tork and not seal,I've done it on my 85 nissan 720.Everytime I do a oil change,I have to make sure I don't over tighten filter.Loosen a little bit,wipe all oil up so you will know if it's fixed.You may have to replace filter if gasket is messed up from overtightening.

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Oil leak from oil filter housing


The only time oil will leak on filter assy. is you put in the wrong filter so that the rubber seal on the filter is not engaging to the wall of the housing so its not sealing the oil inside the filter. Another reason is maybe the filter is still loose that you should try tightening it more by turning it clockwise. Good luck, hope this help.

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My 2004 Armada is leaking oil right above the oil filter, at a joint where there's a pressed steel piece. No, I'm not using the wrong filter, and, no, I don't have two (or "no")...


I had the same problem. I took my vehicle to the mechanic. My armada doesn't leak any more. Change the oil filter housing gasket. It cost me $10 for gasket and $45 for labor.

Sep 08, 2011 | 2006 Nissan Armada

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Had oil changed by local shop , and i think they cracked the housing that the oil filter attaches to!


I really doubt that the oil filter housing could be cracked by having a new filter put on. The spin on filter's sealing "O" Ring was probably pinched or left off or mis-aligned causing it to leak. With the proper "O" Ring, and seated correctly the spin on filter only has to be hand tight. If it is leaking, take it back and complain.

Apr 19, 2011 | Nissan Maxima Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

I have oil coming from the oil filter houseing unit?


It is possible that it could be leaking oil from the oil filter adapter (Sometimes called housing) where it mounts to the engine block. Leaks here are pretty rare. More likely, your oil pressure sending unit is leaking oil. It screws into the back side of the oil filter adapter and can sometimes make it look like the adapter is leaking.

Dec 27, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet Impala

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I have a 2001 BMW 330Ci..It has been dripping oil for about six months now. Several mechanics have had trouble locating the source of the leak. My oil engine light comes on for 30 seconds every time I...


Dear,
Check th below:
1)Check if the torx screw -(it's a screw that allow you to drop out the Engine oil)- is not dripping out any oil.
2) check if the crank shaft sealing is ok.
3) check if the oil pan is cracked or not (especially if you made any accident).
4) check if the oil filter is mounted properly and sealed very well.
5) if the oil is not dipping out of your car but it disappear after short period that means that your engine rings should be replaced or the engine needs an overhaul.
Regards, Eng. Ghassan Alasmar

Dec 14, 2010 | 2006 BMW 5 Series

1 Answer

I changed the 3 front oilseals now my filter leaks after 3 different filters could it be my oil pump


It could be your oil pressure sensor , which is in the back of oil filter housing(single wire).
Take robber boot from the wire plug out and see if there is any oil inside.
Replace if oil found.

Jun 09, 2010 | 1995 Nissan Pathfinder

2 Answers

2004 Murano has an oil leak near the oil filter mounting backet.


The oil filter mounts on an oil cooler housing that has an o-ring on the block side of it. The housing is held in place by the double ended connector bolt that the oil filter screws onto one side and the other goes into the block. This should be tighten to 37 ft/lbs. prior to installation of the oil filter. It may be loose or the o-ring might need replacement.

Mar 08, 2009 | 2005 Nissan Murano

2 Answers

97 jetta with oil pouring out just above where the filter ataches


I have a 1997 jetta and have been through this. Go to the volkswagen dealer and have them pull up the oil cooler housing. You will see a gasket (o-ring) that seals the two pieces of this housing together. Buy that. Your old one has gotten brittle from years of extreme temperature swings and cracked ( it will be like hard plastic when you remove it.) Unscrew your filter, take a 27mm socket (prob need deep well) and unscrew the nut at the top of stud where the filter screws to. Take it all the way off and remove the old o-ring. Clean the area well and put your new oil swabbed o-ring in and reverse the above steps. 30 min 8 dollar fix. Good luck!

Dec 27, 2008 | 1996 Nissan Sentra

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