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I have a diesel leak on my ldv pilot van engine, comming from the top rear of the engine, and running down the bell housing of the gearbox. it is a peugot 1.9 diesel engine, does any one know what might be the cause please ?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 90 Mitsubishi Montero Antifreeze leaking rear portion of engine

a couple of things could be wrong the rubber ring on the back of you water pump is leaking or the hose for you heater core!!

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

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  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Hard starting engine and undetermined leaking of engine oil

Hi Venz

You should check that you are getting power to your glowplug busbar. (thats the alloy bar that connects the power to all the glowplugs).

1.Get a circuit tester and connect the clip to negative earth -
2.Get someone to turn the ignition key to "on" while you hold the tester on the busbar. It should light up for around six seconds I think.
3. If this happens all good than the next step is to check that the glow plugs are turning off correctly while your driving or operating the vehicle.

Also remove and inspect the glowplugs they should be just a nice brown/carbon colour...
They should have no chips out of them or damage of any kind.

These 4D56 engines have a glowplug timer that almost always stuffs out. Then they cause the glowplugs to stay on almost the whole time while driving which stuffs them quickly...

Let me no how you get on
I have a few easy ways to fix this problem!!!

Jules

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: oil leaking from engine right at the top of the bell housing?

it sounds like your oil pressure sending unit has gone bad. It is on the top back of the eng. close to the fire wall. If you don't have a good tool to take it out you could use a plumbing stem puller. It worked great. proper size is 1 1/16
Good luck and hope this helps. When replacing the oil sensor, make sure you do not use and teflon tape or silicon. The sensor is tapered and need a good ground to the engine to get proper readings.

Posted on May 28, 2009

Richie_asg1
  • 1036 Answers

SOURCE: My Peugot Partner Diesel van only gets 2000rpm max

First - I am amazed at the runaround they have given you over this - and all the work they have charged you for.
This seems to be stuck in "limp mode" - which is an electronic basic running mode when it doesn't get all the info from the sensors (of which there are too many on peugeots !)

The most likely to start with is any damage to the exhaust sections - or any catylist fitted. Diesels use them to reduce particulates, and can become blocked - causing backpressure and all sorts of running problems.

The cheapest solution to you is to take it to an exhaust specialist - and ask them to check it.
A bad knock can shatter a ceramic catylist - virtually blocking the entire system.

I have a peugeot - but after numerous electronic faults - will never buy another.

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

theautoguy
  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: my 1994 camaro w/ 3.4L engine has an oil leak in

This is most likely a leak from your rear main seal. It happens and can be a pain to replace if you're a DYI kinda person without the nec. equipment.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
  2. Remove the transmission.
  3. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure plate.
  4. Remove the flywheel assembly.
  5. Using a suitable prytool, carefully pry the old seal out.
6. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks or burrs, correct as required.
88143g59.gif Crankshaft rear main seal - 5.7L engine

To install:
  1. Clean the area and coat the seal with engine oil. Install the seal onto tool J-34686 for 3.4L engines, J 41349 for 3.8L engines or J 35621 for 5.7L engines.
  2. Install the tool (with the seal mounted to it) onto the rear of the crankshaft. Tighten the screws snugly to be sure the seal will be installed squarely over the crankshaft.
88143g60.gif Exploded view of the rear main seal installation - 3.4L engine
Click to Enlarge

  1. Tighten the wing nut on the installation tool until it bottoms out.
  2. Remove the tool from the crankshaft or rear oil seal housing, as applicable.
88143g61.gif Rear main seal and installation tool - 3.8L engine
Click to Enlarge
88143g62.gif After position the seal on the tool, install it to the crankshaft housing

  1. Install the flywheel.
  2. If equipped with a manual transmission, install the clutch and pressure plate.
  3. Install the transmission.
  4. Check the fluid levels, start the engine and check for leaks.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

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what gear box.
5speed manual "GL4 gear lube 4, can stink bad"
or autotmatic. (ATF pink fluid, and smells sweet)

what engine, some engines, leak oil and goes to the bell housing
then down hill (gravity and wind) to the exh. pipes.
what engine, the 2.7L V6? or G16 or J20? what?
and on calif cars they have calif exhuast, and fits up different,..
so no country stated, or if in calif. (exhaust questions....)

if the gear box leaks, (any)
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if A/T box. (automatic) we read the operators guide, not guessing how and read that on a hot running engine we check ATF levels.
if overfilled the ATF foams and will leak and cause bearing failure.
air bubbles do not work right as lubrication... ever.
filled to hot mark on dip stick
unless the stick is missing, as is true on newer cars.

if trans leaks, say where it leaks.
top , bottom
front or rear.??

pretend we are blind. and win.

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there almost certainly will be a freezeplug in that area , but first make completely sure the coolant isn't leaking higher up and looks like from bell housing , get the area steam cleaned and make sure it's not from the head gasket or another freeze plug , 30 minutes spent doing this could save you time and money dropping the gearbox etc , hope this helps

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Hi
I would have though your garage would have either cleaned or replaced the aur mass sensor.
You can find this four/five pin plug somewhere between the air filter and the throttle housing or google its location.
These often dont show up well on diagnostic computers.
You can run engine with plug disconnected to see if it runs better or not. If it does then buy and fit a new sensor.
All that really controls your fueling is coolant sensor and air sensors....these often fail the most.
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Gday mate,geoff here, there are 3 things that can leak there, 1st is coolant as there should be a freeze plug at the back of each cylinder bank in there.
2nd engine oil as there is a seal on the crankshaft and a plug at the back of the Cam tunnel, mostly if its engine oil it will be the crank seal.
3rd is gear/transmission oil, front seal on the gearbox if that is the case, also make sure that the oil isn't coming from the top and leaking down to look like its the bell housing leaking, as the valley cover and rocker covers extend back to just above the bell housing, hope this helps, geoff.

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Look down past the engine bell housing and determine the existance of a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.(a piece of casting with a rod facing towards the rear of the vehicle pocket into a bracket protruding out of the gearbox bell housing. As well as a pipe and bleed nipple to be crude)
(which I believe you have).The hydraulic fluid for this unit is sourced from the brake master cylinder reservoir via a sneaky pipe partially obscured to the clutch master cylinder on the internal firewall.If you have no clutch slave cylinder near the bell housing there would be an obvious bounden cable running from the firewall down to the outer of which will be stopped at a bracket hanging off the engine.The inner will continue to a bracket protruding from the gearbox bell housing.

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