Question about 1998 Dodge Durango

11 Answers

Starter justclicks i have a dodge durango and when you turn the key to start it it just clicks i have cleaned the cables put in a new battery and starter and now when i try to start it the engine just clicks?

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  • cltbruce Mar 11, 2009

    the starter and battery arenew its somthing in the electrical

  • cltbruce Mar 11, 2009

    the new starter motor makes ehe exact same noise as the old one did click?

  • cltbruce Mar 12, 2009

    The responces to my problems are from alot of backyard mechanics. Where are the relays connected to this problem? The starter and the battery are brand new and the motor has the very same problem as before they were replaced so why would the soil. be bad

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11 Answers

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  • Contributor
  • 34 Answers

Sounds like u have a  bad end  on one of your cables  where they are crimped  try replacing both of them bet it fixes it   

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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  • Master
  • 497 Answers

Check the sparks plug and ignition coils...hope this wrks for u

Thanks for using Fixya

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • Yaz  S
    Yaz S Mar 12, 2009

    The clicking you hear is from the CentralTimerModule located behind the glove box.

  • Yaz  S
    Yaz S Mar 12, 2009

    When the armed Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) senses that the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, it enters its power-up mode. In the power-up mode the alarm system remains armed following a battery failure or disconnect. If the VTSS was armed prior to a battery disconnect or failure, the system will have to be actively or passively disarmed after the battery is reconnected.

    The alarm can be disarmed by locking the vehicle and turning the drivers door lock to the lock (arm) position. Wait a few minutes then unlock (disarm) the drivers door and the vehicle should start.

    If the VTSS has been disabled in the high-line Central Timer Module (CTM), the VTSS feature must be re-enabled using the Chrysler DRB scan tool.





    source: About.com

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  • Master
  • 5,158 Answers

Have someone attempt to start the car while you tap the starter with a hammer... if it starts take it back and exchange if for another one if you just bought it.... also make sure the battery is charged up to do this or get a boost

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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  • Master
  • 11,896 Answers

Where your cables attach to the battery, make sure they are completely in contact. I always use an extra washer in between on any GM vehicle. Also try tapping your solenoid to make sure piston inside isn't stuck. Make sure cables to solenoid are in right order! Swap around and test if needed. Make sure wire from starter to solenoid didn't get pulled out.
You can always test your starter by using screwdriver and jump the terminals on solenoid/starter
<--0---------0----[][][][][][][] This bypasses the ignition system. If it turns over than you know starter and solenoid is good and the problem is in the wiring, connections, or battery. If it doesn't turn over, then solenoid stuck.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 5 more comments 
  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 13, 2009

    I SUGGEST CHANGING ALL YOUR CABLES FIRST.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 16, 2009

    It's a bad cable, cable connection, or faulty relay.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 31, 2009

    TESTING

    Any troubleshooting of the starting system should start with checks of the following components:





    1. Ensure that the battery is in good condition and fully charged.
      Simply checking for voltage across the terminals will NOT indicate
      battery condition. A load test is required. This requires special
      equipment, but a local garage or parts store may be able to help. Check
      the battery and clean the connections as follows:




      1. If the battery cells have removable caps, check the water level.
        Add distilled water if low. Load test the battery and charge if
        necessary.



      2. Remove the cables and clean them with a wire brush. Reconnect the cables.


      3. Check for voltage across and battery posts and across the clamps to ensure that clamp connections are making good contact.






    2. On manual trans. models, disconnect the clutch position switch
      and connect a jumper across the harness connector to simulate
      depressing the clutch pedal.



    3. Connect the voltmeter leads to the battery positive (+) terminal
      and the starter solenoid battery cable stud. Turn the ignition switch
      to START
      and hold it there. If the meter reads above 0.2 volt, suspect bad contact at the solenoid battery cable stud.



    4. Connect the voltmeter leads to the battery negative terminal and
      a good ground on the engine. Turn the ignition switch to START and hold it there. If the meter reads
      above 0.2 volt, suspect bad connections of the battery negative cable
      or internal corrosion of the cable.



    5. Connect the positive (+) lead of the voltmeter to the starter
      motor housing and the negative meter lead to the battery's negative (-)
      terminal. Turn the ignition switch to START
      and hold it there. If the meter reads above 0.2 volt, suspect poor starter-to-engine ground.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 31, 2009

    I found your information on a free online repair guide for your vehicle located at:

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi...


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 31, 2009

    the relays are most likely found in a black box probably on the firewall

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Apr 01, 2009

    did you find the faulty relay? Should work fine now.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Apr 09, 2009















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    First - check your Caps Lock key... it appears to be stuck.



    Next - check the starter relay in the PDC. Does the common terminal (#30)

    have +12VDC? Does the coil terminal (#86) get power when the ignition is

    turned to 'start'? If you turn the ignition on, and jumper #30 to #87, does

    the starter engage? Check the wiring to the starter solenoid... is it

    intact?



    Lastly - why was the old starter replaced? Was it bench-tested and verified

    that it was indeed bad, or was it replaced because of this symptom?

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  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

If the starter and battery are new - be sure the battery voltage is at LEAST 9V with the car off (should be 11-12V DC and 14V running)
your solenoid is not getting enough voltage to kick out the starter.
Your alternator may not be charging the battery.
Have it load tested at the place you purchased the starter & battery.
Read the following....

That clicking noise is from either the starter solenoid or the relay. The solenoid is part of the starter. Typically it has a terminal for a thick power feed wire from the battery, and a thinner terminal for the current supply wire to a switching mechanism in the solenoid. The relay is a remotely mounted switching device between starter and battery that controls either the thick power feed or the thinner electrical feed to the solenoid's switch terminal.
The first step (although at this point it doesn't tell you the root cause) is to find out where the click is coming from. If you have a helper turn the ignition key to start, you'll be able to trace the underhood click. If it comes from the starter, your problem is in the solenoid.
Ford and Chrysler products usually have a relay in the circuit. If the solenoid isn't the source of the click, tracing the sound should take you to the relay on those models.
Even after you know what part is clicking, begin your real diagnosis at the battery. If the battery top has an "eye" indicator (actually a battery hydrometer that indicates the state of charge), recharge if the indicator is black. If it's green, it's got a normal charge. If it's yellow, get a new battery because the electrolyte is too low.
There's no indicator eye? Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals (positive lead to positive terminal, negative lead to negative terminal). If the meter reads under 12.4 to 12.5 volts, it's borderline or undercharged (depending on the design of the battery). Recharge it for the day. Batteries do run down as a result of a temporary series of operating conditions (lots of short trips, for example), but if the problem recurs, you'll have to check charging system output and the possibility of a short circuit.
If the reading is 12.7 to 12.9 volts, that's a good starting point. After a recharge, operate the headlamps for 15 seconds to remove what is called the "surface charge." The meter reading should not drop more than about 0.2 volt.
The reading is okay? Have a helper turn the ignition key to start, and in 15 seconds, read the meter. If it's below 9.5 volts, the battery may not be strong enough. Professionals have battery load testers to make sure. Your alternative: If the battery voltage was normal when you started, but is low during the attempt to crank, try a jumpstart. If the engine cranks normally with a boost, the battery probably is bad.

A low battery that makes the starter *click* a few times doesn't have enough *juice* in it to turn the starter over to turn the flywheel over to turn the crankshaft over to make the engine start...phew!
A simple way to tell if the battery is at fault is to turn the headlights on and turn the ignition switch to start.
If the lights go out, then the battery is probably at fault.
Course, you'll have to run real fast after you hit the start position in order to see if the lights go out...or have someone out there watching for you.:-)
You can purchase a small inexpensive battery charger at most malls, or parts store.
The best way to use a *trickle* chargers is to charge the batter all night, or all day, whichever pleases you.
You can try charging the battery. If it runs down again, then you need to do something.
Remove the battery terminals from the battery post, if you have the *post* type, and clean the post and the inside of the cable clamp.
If you have the side mount just loosen the 8mm bolt and clean the terminal where it comes into contact with the battery. Clean the part on the battery, too. :-)
Sometimes the battery will build up a lot of corrosion on the outside of the cable clamp.
When this happens, usually, the inside part of the clamp and post will create a hard metallic-like surface.
This stops the flow of electricity from the alternator to the battery.
When you use the battery's reserve, it's gone, no more being put in.
If the vehicle does crank, it will run off the alternator, which ain't good. :-(
If cleaning the post and recharging the battery doesn't solve the problem, you may need a new one.
Don't run to the nearest *convenience store* and buy a battery.
Take your battery to a place that sells batteries and have it checked.
If it is gone to where old dead batteries go, then you will have to purchase a new one.
You may have other problems...like the alternator; the tension on the alternator belt... several things could make the battery be low.


Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated!!

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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  • Master
  • 408 Answers

You need to replace the starter solenoid.  That will fix your problems.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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  • Master
  • 1,239 Answers

Hi
This could be several things.
The first thing I would check is battery terminal connections.  They have to be tight and clean.  Next the battery itself must be well charged and starting draws more current than any of the accessories you mentioned so their firing up doesn't necessarily mean there s enough amperage to start the car.
I am assuming all of the devices (radio, heater, lights) are turned on and should be coming on--if not it is a serious electrical problem.
The starter and starter solenoid could also be bad.
The next thing that could be causing the problem is the ignition switch itself.
If it is not the battery cables or battery, you need to find a good, well equipped shop that can check the electrical components.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Mar 11, 2009



    Probable cause is the contacts inside the ignition switch are dirty or worn out. Some switches can be opened and the contacts cleaned quite easily, whereas others can be more difficult. Only 100% fix is to replace the switch part of the ignition switch assembly. 

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Mar 11, 2009

    if the battery tests good and terminals are in good shape follow the ground cable (black) to where it bolts to the transmission make sure that connection is solid then follow the hot wire (red) to the starter it will be where you can reach it from the front of the car check and make sure the hot wire is tight let me know what you find


    This sounds like your starter.When it(gets to the point where) just clicks and wont start take a small hammer or wrench and tap the starter.This will allow the balast to free itself and in turn spin the flywheel to start the car.To check if it is the alternator,while the car is running disconnect the positive wire for your battery.The battery is only used to 'start the car', then your alternator powers the car.When you disconect the battery and the car still runs the alternator is fine.If it stalls you need a new one.If the battery were bad the lights would be dim andeventually would not even produce the 'click' sound when turning the key.





    there should also be 1 other small wire that attaches at the back of the starter close to the red(hot) wire make sure its pluged in also 



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  • Dodge Master
  • 4,369 Answers

The starter relay mounted on the starter is probably bad. can be replaced separately. If you are technical, you can by pass the relay and jump from the battery positive cable to the starter side of the relay to test. Just be sure you are in park first. Engine will crank & start if key is on.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • gerry bissi Mar 13, 2009

    Did you try jumping right from the battery positive cable to the starter motor? You will need to bypass the starter solenoid too. Just be careful as you are bypassing the shift safety switch.



    If it starts then, you have an issue from the battery to the starter. Also, be sure you have a good ground from the battery to the engine block.

    You can take a jumper cable and connect it to the negative post of the battery and touch it to the case of the starter. If it cranks now, check for a bad ground strap from eengine to body or engine to battery, Let us know how those 2 tests go.

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  • Master
  • 3,614 Answers

it could be your starter motor that is faulty. You can lightly tap the starter motor with a block of wood WHILE someone is holding the key in the START position. If you have a bad starter this will sometimes make it work. Make SURE you have the car in park and the emergency brake on.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

Check the solenoid. its malfunctioning.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Mar 11, 2009

    also, check the positive battery post wire for looseness and ware. i suspect solenoid issue.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Mar 11, 2009

    this may be a faulty ignition switch. i would test to see if its OK.

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  • Dodge Master
  • 60,565 Answers

THIS PROBLEM IS CAUSED BY THE HEAVY CONTACT'S INSIDE THE STARTER SOLENOID THAT ENERGIZE THE STARTER WHEN U TURN TO START, OVER TIME THEY WEAR OUT AN GET BURNED, U CAN REPLACE JUST THE CONTACTS OR THE STARTER ITSELF, THE CONTACTS CAN ALSO BE RENEWED BY SOLDERING COOPER WIRE (LIKE ROMEX) ON THEM AND FILING IT DOWN TO THE RIGHT SHAPE. THE CONTACTS ARE AVAIL AT THIS LINK:
http://www.iowamotorparts.com/index.htm, ABOUT $12.00 US

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • yadayada
    yadayada Mar 11, 2009

    would have been good info to have on the new sarter, but that said run a voltage drop test on the battery cable to the starter.

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