Crankshaft rear oil seal leak on v.m.ford transit 2.4 turbo diesel.
There is a good chance the sump is being pressureized,& forcing oil out through the seal,however there is no p.c.v valve on the evacuation pipe from tappet cover to throttle body.Is there a positive crankcase ventilation valve within the tappet cover.The reason i ask,is 5,oooks ago replaced the vacume pump & gasket,due to huge hemrage of oil leak,after major 45,000k service It has less than 43,000k,The main services are done by Ford,I do intermediat oil & filter changes every 5,000ks,Ford @ 15,000ks,oil the colour of tar,like that from new.thanks cliff.
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MY 2001 7.3 was leaking the same way. The dealer said the o'rings under the pedestal were leaking. I had the dealer replace the o'rings. By the time I got home, it was leaking again. Called the service department and told the manager,and they put on a new pedestal and o'rings. They only charged me half price for the pedestal and no labor. That did stop the leaks.
if your not having problems with the vehicle missing the injectors are fine. if your getting alot of oil in the uper in take chances are that the seals inside the turbo are leaking and if you have excessive blowby then perhaps a replacement of the o-rings on the injectors might be needed but i would say that 5-6 thousand sounds way off the mark as far as replacement parts and shop labor
it depends on what oil filter you have fitted on your car if you have the screw on type it woud be at the back of the engine on the offside.and the other filter sounds like its the pollen filter. hope this helps
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most common is piston rings gone, or a leak in the head. engine is like a pump the pistons are the pump,. it can be also an imbalance in the engine were by there is a blockage in the sump breather pipe, this can force the oil to leave the sump, this would cause damage to all the moving parts. i would have the engine checked out,. if its going though the piston rings it would be sluggish and no power and ruff idling, turbo model if turbo seal has failed it will send oil back into the intake (some times hard to see as its still sealed).
Place a clean flattened cardboard under your car and see if it's leaking out. If it's not dripping oil, check your radiator for the presence of oil using a dye test kit available at NAPA. If there is a leak coming from under your car, try to determine from where it's dripping. Most common is an oil filter that hasn't been tightened properly or leaking oil sump bolt. A 1/4 turn on the oil filter should stop the leak, if its the sump... a new screw washer for the sump bolt will usually cure that. Check around the sump mounting bolts, if a fresh leak is evident, you will need a new sump gasket, don't try to tighten the existing bolts as it make leak worse! Tighten to torque specs. Otherwise, you are burning it up... exhaust smoke should be dark instead of light gray. White smoke indicates a blown head gasket and the oil is getting into the engine.
check for a seal leak in the diesel pump. If it is common rail the high pressure of the pump will be causing the fuel to leak into the sump past the pump gear. Best have a diesel pump shop check it out as they can do a pressure test first to be sure.. If it is a rotary pump then the leak will be still at the seal
OIl from the pcv valve from the oil being retained in the rocker cover from the oil not being allowed to run back to the sump.. Blockage at the oil return line to the sump from the turbo allowing oil pressure to leak past the seals on the turbo shaft. Check for kinked hose or hose failing internally closing it off
There are three other area's that can leak, here they are in order of how often they occur
1.Engine Valve cover gasket(s) (2 if V6 engine), oil runs down the engine and drips off the pan.
2.Rear crankshaft seal leaking
3.Front crankshaft seal leaking. Oil is blown back by air pressure while driving and rips off of pan.
There is a oil drain return from the turbo charger to the sump. If the sump oil level covers the outlet into the sump, oil will build excess pressure tin the turbo causing the sealing rings to leak oil in to the intake manifold. This would cause smokey exhaust and loss of oil. Try this. Drain the sump completely, refill with the exact quantity of oil to Mazda spec. Dip the oil and if the new oil level is lower than the full mark on the dipstick, you have found the cause of the problem. Mark this new level with a scriber or file and fill only to this new level. Hope this is the solution.
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, the oil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.
The HPOP (high pressure oil pump) is right under the filter housing. There are 2 lines that distribute the oil to the cylinder heads. The o-rings on those fittings go out. Kit is available from Ford or International. You will need a special wrench to get to the fittings though.