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Sounds like the master cylinder ran empty during the process.
Were you adding fluid as you were bleeding fluid out? If it ever runs empty, you bleed air into the system, and it takes a lot of bleeding to get it back out....You did add fluid as you were bleeding fluid out ...didn't you?
Most cars are done the same way: 1: Farthest brake from the master cylinder (rear)2: Opposite side from the first brake.3: Farthest from the master cylinder on the front.4: Remaining brake. BTW: I would advice using the traditional method of using a clear bottle with some fluid in the bottom and a clear hose running out of the fluid, through the bottle top and which can connect to the bleed nipple. When bleeding fluid, make sure the fluid in both the master cylinder and to the bottle is clean before closing off the bleed nipple. Then pump the brake after bleeding each brake and feel for any softness. If you feel softness after bleeding any particular brake, then you will know that you just introduced air into that brake line, and will need to bleed again.NEVER allow your master cylinder to become totally empty whilst bleeding as this will mean you have to bleed all air out of the total system and start again from scratch. This can be a huge pain!
When it was parked fluid may have run out of a wheel cylinder, a caliper, brake line or the master cylinder and created an air space in the brake lines. Rust could also be a factor depending on where and how it was stored. Rust could have developed on all of these items as well. I would suggest bleeding the air out of the system and look for leaks afterwards.
No, there will be too much air trapped in the lines. The pedal may firm up, but will loosen later, creating a dangerous situation. The brakes will need completely "bled". Do a google search for bleeding brakes. It's too complicated to explain here (not very hard, but lots of steps).