Question about 1991 Nissan Pathfinder
Torque converter bolt torque specs
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There likely is a spec for oil pan but unless you are a finatic, you really don't need to know what it is. Simple rule: Don't crank down ******* any fastener. If corners near crank ends have larger fasteners, you can tighten them a bit more than on siderails. Before tightening anything, install all bolts finger tight, to ensure that they are not cross threaded. To avoid warping pan, tighten from the center of the pan, working towards both ends, alternating from side to side as you go. When you are finished, go over it again, using the same amount of force on each bolt. As I said, end bolts can if larger in diameter, be tightened more but be careful not to tighten so much that you will either split or push the gasket out the sides.. Anywhere two gasket ends **** together, I recommend using a sensor -safe dab of silicone. An oil pan is not under any mechanical stress or pressure. I have used this method for many years and NEVER had one leak. If you really need #s, small fasteners get about 12-15in lbs, larger ones about 20.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
1.Flywheel - 61 to 69 Foot Pounds
2.Pressure Plate - 25 to 33 Foot Pounds
3.Bell Housing - No specs found. I would say 25 to 35 foot pounds should be sufficient.
Bolts clean on ->flywheel to crank, ->pressure plate to flywheel, and ->bell housing to back of engine, I would use TWO drops of Loctite Red threadlocker, on ALL of these bolts.
Hope you have an alignment tool for your clutch disk when you install it. Auto parts stores sell the plastic one's cheap! Saves a LOT of headaches!
Tighten the pressure plate EVENLY! Snug the bolts down until they just TOUCH, then go in a criss-cross pattern when tightening. Do the tightening in incremental stages! You turn one bolt one thread, you go across to the opposite side, and turn that bolt one thread. Keep criss-crossing so the pressure plate goes down EVENLY. (YES, it's a pain in the keister!)
If NOT, you'll have a warped pressure plate, and it will be junk!
Thanks for letting me say that, I feel better.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
there should be a lower flywheel cover that you can unbolt , then turn the flywheel to access all the nuts iin the opening. There should be several nuts to separate the torque conv. from the flywheel.
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
SOURCE: auto transmission pathfinder
It is hard to get to them, some people make wrenches out of old wrenches that fit in tiny places, etc, but if you have a book, and you should, if you got this far, there is a spot to access these bolts from, one at a time, either up on the right or by removing the starter. Don't strip them, and don't let the torque converter fall out when you pull the tranny. (if it is auto) You will have oil all over the place. You might have to pull a few spark plugs to take the compression off the engine so it will spin easier.
Posted on Feb 10, 2010
Testimonial: "thank you for advice ive got to flywheel bolts through the opening after removing starter using long extension"
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