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My ford connect van, will start most times; but I have trouble every time I go out and I have to stop the van, it will not start a gaine, it turns over well, but it like the remote has turnd it off, I

Will not start once I have stoped to go to the shops, it will not start, I have replaced fueses, battery, battery in the key lock (module) I have even took it to fords, but they were worse than useless, I am sorry to say.

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Hi, before I can give any sure solution I need to ask you if you mean that when it does'nt start it's completely dead or the motor turns but it does not fire up, or the ignition switches on but it does not turn. Let me know..Regards

Posted on Apr 19, 2013

  • terrance skelton Apr 19, 2013

    reply to your question about my van, the van turns over with no problem at all.

  • Claude Apr 20, 2013

    Ok. sounds like this is erratic problem due to the fact that one of the electrical components gets hot after you've driven for a few miles then breaks down and does not work, and the reason why it only does it when you've parked the vehicle then start it again some minutes later it turns (Starter's OK) is because when you are driving the car is operating at a stable temparature, and the minute you park it, the coolant in the radiator is obviously not circulating to cool the engine down, and when you stop for some minutes the heat starts spreading furiously through the structure of the engine in it's process of dissipation. That's why if you wait a hile until the engine cools down it start's firing up again.Now I suspect that the component that is doing this is situated on the engine or close by .he first one that comes to my mind is the small induction coil that is housed in the distributor which will break a wire internally and at a certain temperature will expand therefore not joining the wire at the point where the break is. Now a fault like this can really mess one around as another point that could be affected is your fuel pump of which I have seen on quite a few occassions.So the only way we are going to solve this problem is to do it systematically in a patient manner. So I suggest you fill a pint bottle with cold water, take it with you and go to the shops again, do your shopping come out start it and if it does not start, open the hood (Bonnet) and slowly pour the cold water onto the sides only of the distributor and the base of it, taking care not to get any water onto the spark or coil wires or into the distributor, and then wait 5 seconds and try starting it again. If it starts then that's the problem I mentioned earlier, If it still does not start then pour some more water slowly onto each particular sensor systematically starting after each water pour of each component. That should give you a better result to go by. If still no luck then check out the fuel pump and as a last resort the fuel filter (Which could also) provide the same symptoms. Another ascertive way of doing it is to check to see if it is sparking at the spark plugs by removing any spark plug and fit the plug wire onto it and let the sides of the spark plug lie against a flat part on top of the engine and get someone to watch it for spark while you turn the engine over. Make sure that the plug is well away from it's hole or it could ignite fuel in the chamber and cause it to flame. If it does happen to do that then as a safety measure keep a wet cloth with you and immediately shove it over the spark plug hole which will douse the flame. If still no ;luck then just let me know and would also like to be sure whether your van is fuel injected or not and also need to know the year model and series name. Good luck.



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SOURCE: Ford Transit Van 2003

Check the wiring harness at the back doors. What was happening with these was, the wiring is inside an armoured sleeve, and should slide in and out of the door, as the door is opened and closed. After a while, the wiring becomes kinked, and no longer slides, but bends in half, breaking the wires inside the sleeve over a period of time.


Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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SOURCE: 2004 Ford Escape Electrical problem

This is a problem with the alternator. Diode rectifiers and voltage regulator replacement will give this baby a 14.2 voltage output. In this 3L V6 SUV removal of the alternator requires removing the right tire, the right axis and undercovering to reach the 6G alternator. It is a 133mm rectifier with a motorcraft, The serpentine belt is better removed from the bottom. Also keep a bucket on hand to recover the oil from the transmission.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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SOURCE: ford courier 4x4 ute starting problem


If I understand you right, the problem is at certain times the engine will not crank, that is turn over when you turn they ignition key to START. And at times it will start and run normally.

Might it be that the issue is with the starter system. The starter system is initiated at the ignition switch when the key is turned to start. At this point, the ignition switch then provides +12VDC to a starter relay. The relay is but a remote switch with slightly higher amperage capacity. The starter relay then engages and supplies +12VDC to the staring solenoid. The starting solenoid then performs two (2) functions. It provides the switching action (hundreds amps) from the battery heavy cable to the actual starter motor. The solenoid likewise pushes a small pinion gear along the shaft of the starter motor to engage the ring gear. The ring gear is of course on the edge of the flywheel which in turn is attached to the crankshaft.

Starter system problems could be corrected by:
1. check battery, battery cables and connections;
2. charge the battery if required;
3. clean brushes and guides of brush holders of the starter motor;
4. clean the commutator and commutator segments;
5. check/replace the armature or field coils if determined to be defective;
6. in some extreme cases it could be the drive pinion or the flywheel gear ring is defective.
7. often it is the big switch that the solenoid activates that looses contacts causing no +12V internally to the motor.
8. Most likely would be a defective starter relay or the IGN switch itself. Relative to this, you might try and check the connectors/terminals and electrical joints.

In the picture below, the upper portion is the starter solenoid while the one below it is the actual starter.
Given the amount of work to overhaul a starter, you might consider just replacing it.

This of course assuming that all other vital components of the car are working.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

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SOURCE: how do I program remote to unlock the doors of 2002 ford taurus?

Come on chat wherein you can stand close to the car while I guide you.

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Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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SOURCE: Ford F150 remote key does not work after car battery

Should not have happened,
For the Factory RKE ( Remote Keyless Entry ) have you tried reprogramming the key fobs to your truck. The procedure is in the owners manual ( need all of them at programming time ).
This is stored in NVR, and should not need to be done, but worth a try.

If this is an aftermarket Remote start / alarm, check the owners manual for t on battery replacement. Have seen some off brand with strange battery ( truck's battery that is ) replacement steps.

Posted on Nov 04, 2009

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