Question about 2006 Jeep Liberty
If you have low voltage it wont run ck for caroted batt termanels and if you have a volt meter ck voltage should readat least12.8 but 13.3 is about normal
Posted on Apr 19, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 jeep
My wife had a similar problem with a 2003 Jeep Liberty. Her problem was that it stalled and she could not get it restarted unless it sat off for 30-45 minutes. It seemed like it was a problem with the alternator and battery but it had just gotten a brand new battery in it and we discovered the starter would roll over after the Jeep sat. We had it towed to the dealership and they replaced the Crank Sensor and the Timing Sensor and the Jeep now runs fine again. Side note: They charged us about $200 to fix these parts.
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
SOURCE: 2003 Jeep Liberty Stalls
thats correct, may have bad ecm (computer) or bad wire to crank sensor from ecm, also ive run into this problem and it was the new sensor i put in was no good and aftermarket,also cam sensor can do this, and also make sure the 5 volt feed wire is good,good luck hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
Testimonial: "It ended up being the cam sensor. Thanks for the info. Fixed it right up."
BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
It sounds like a fuel issue. Possibly a bad fuel filter or fuel pump. I would start by replacing the filter as it is a much cheaper fix. I hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 15, 2010
check the alternator out put on the battery once car is running and the battery voltage also
good batt 12.4v bad bat anything below 11.9v
with engine running
should read 13.8-14.8v bad is anything below 13.0v
check these and let me know and ill help more if needs be.
Posted on May 17, 2010
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