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Rear brakes sticking on 1998 f150

Replaced a ll brakes hardware and lines

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: my rear wheel brakeline on durango 1998 blew

Depends on your mechanic ablilites. Steel brake line is basically 0.188 inch diameter line, and the metric 6mm line dia is very closely same.
Dodge uses ISO bubble flare , and not the American standard double flare at the end of the steel tube line. This ISO bubble flare on the steel line then fits into its mate female end which is the rubber hose connector end.
So, easiest way to get rid of the ISO bubble flare and change to American double flare end is:
Some automotive stores such as Parts Plus Auto Stores carry the brass brakeline adapter which has one end being the male end that fits nicely into the rubber hose with its ISO bubble female fitting, while the other end of the brass line adapter is the female end which has the double flare so you can then insert the steel line replacement with standard double flare into this end of the adapter.
Steel line , bungy brake line or equivalent is fine, and has the brake line nuts already on it, and is flared for you too. If you want to stay with ISO bubble line fittings you can get that in bungy brake line lengths too but it is less common for some stores to carry, and that is why the conversion brake line fitting adapter mentioned is so easy a way to change from ISO bubble flare to a double flare for easier use of all steel line being standard American double flared brake line. The brake lines come in straight lengths, 2ft 4ft, and 6ft, so you can use them to fit your necessary total length by connecting them with tubing couplers which the steel tube lines brake line nut gets threaded into.
My same year Durango had its rear line blow thru last year, due to the rusting of the steel brake line. I just got done last week, doing a entire steel line replacement myself. It was a medium sized effort for sure. You should check the other lines for the entire brake system to see if you need to replace more than just that section which failed for you, as my lines showed heavy corrosion at many other locations in the brake line system.
It is easy to double flare brake line tubing , and Sears sells its craftsman brand of brake line double flare tool kit for that purpose at about 60 bucks if I recall it right.
One thing you should do when doing your own double flaring, is to use a dial caliper to measure the diameter of the flare at its widest flared end, to insure you are within the required diameter of flare to insure proper sealing when you tighten down the tube flare nuts. I recall the flare diameter is supposed to be 0.272 inches , plus or minus 0.006 inches ( so range of dial caliper measuring of that formed flare should be between 0.266 inch and 0.278 inch) to insure the right diameter of flare for good sealing.
You can also get steel galvanized tubing line in coils of 20ft and more, with a bunch of brake line nuts ( all this is standard american brake line nuts, for double flared line fitting) from Inline Tube company; www.inlinetube.com.
Check out the great tech info from FEDHILL website, www.fedhillusa.com
Good luck, I did it so you can do it and feel satisfied and safe for the family with solid and sound steel line that is much better than chancing an accident via leaving the rusted line in place.

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

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SOURCE: rear brakes on 1998 mercury sable

I've done it and hated every minute of it.

Get a quality brake piston rotator tool. The Autozone 5 sided cube is no good.

you will have to spin the piston back about 4-5 turns until it fully retracts.

The expanding/ 500lb pressure clamps do no good b/c the brake is like a hydraulic screw. You can't compress this type of brake.
Starting the rotation of the piston back will require two people

1 to hold the tool and ratchet on the piston, the other to turn the ratchet.



Posted on Aug 30, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1998 Pontiac Bonneville Brake system

It is a brake proportioning valve. Dealer only part.

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Posted on Sep 17, 2008

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: rear brakes scrubbing on 1998 chevy venture van

Removal Procedure Tools RequiredJ 38400
Caution: Keep fingers away from rear brake shoe springs to prevent fingers from being pinched between spring and shoe web or spring and backing plate.

  1. Remove the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement

  2. 142285.gif
    tif.gif
    Notice: Do not over stretch the adjuster spring. Damage can occur if the spring is over stretched.
  3. Use the J 38400 in order remove the adjuster spring (1). Disengage the adjuster spring loop from the tab on the adjuster actuator.
  4. 2.1. Remove the loop end of the adjuster spring from the adjuster actuator. 2.2. Remove the straight end of the adjuster spring from the secondary brake shoe.
    142293.gif
    tif.gif
  5. Use the J 38400 in order to spread the brake shoes apart.
  6. Remove the adjuster.
Installation Procedure

    142293.gif
    tif.gif
  1. Use the J 38400 in order to spread the brake shoes apart.

  2. 178990.gif
    tif.gif
    Important: Ensure that the adjuster (2) engages the brake shoes (4 and 5), the park brake actuator (3), and the adjuster actuator (1) properly.
  3. Install the adjuster.

  4. 142285.gif
    tif.gif
    Notice: Do not over stretch the adjuster spring. Damage can occur if the spring is over stretched.
  5. Install the adjuster spring (1).
  6. 3.1. Install the straight end of the adjuster spring into the secondary brake shoe. 3.2. Install the loop end of the adjuster spring to the adjuster actuator.
  7. Install the brake drum.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1998 dodge neon, the rear brake/ turn not functioning

Check all the fuses.

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

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1 Answer

Sticking caliper


You'll have to re-build the caliper or replace it.. If it is rebuildable, kits are cheap and pretty easy to do. Consult any old repair manual. Of course, you'll have to break the line apart, so you have to bleed them again-sigh.

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Rear caliper on 2005 Ford F150 not releasing, replaced both rear calipers, now pedal goes to the floor - no brakes at all. What can/should i do?


Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers. ---------- There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.----
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech

Sep 07, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

1998 ford f150 4x4 5.4L Have changed the master cylinder and bled all of the lines and checked everything for a leak and still no brake pressure. what do i do?


When you changed the master cylinder did you bench bleed it if you didn;t there is air traper in it You need to take it back off you;ll need alittle kit there cheap screw lines inthe kit in to the side of the cylinder where the brake lines go put the hoses from the kit on the connectors then put the other end inside the master res Pht the cylinder in a vice fill if with fluid then take something that fits into the back of the cylinder and push and relese until you can see now more air bubbles coming from the hoses Reinstall and rebleed your brakes

Nov 20, 2010 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

1976 ford f150 broke brake line and replaced it.( rear). Bleed all lines front and back.No air. levels good in mast cylnder. spongy brakes first pump 2nd pump better 3rd 4th pump back to normal.....


Bleed the brakes again. Sometimes it takes more than once to get all the air out especially if you had to do the rear brakes. Hope this helps.

Nov 10, 2010 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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Try e brake cable that was my problem

Feb 23, 2010 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

1993 Ford F-150 drum brake problem


It appears the rear axle shaft seal is leaking. You will need to pull the axle and replace the seal. Then check the rear end for adequate gear oil. The iron filings I am not to sure about. It sounds as if something came loose from the brakes or brake hardware and got chewed up in the drum. You will need to replace the brake shoes and maybe the brake hardware kit. Always change the shoes or pads on both sides when working on brakes, rear or front. If the inside of the drum is not perfectly smooth it will need to be turned or replaced. If this were brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinder the master cylinder would be low on fluid and your brake pedal would go down much further than normal.

Jul 18, 2009 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Front brakes not releasing properly.


Sounds like the caliper needs replaced. Sometimes the pistons lock in the caliper and cause the brakes to drag. When the mechanic changed the brakes before, he pushed the pistons in all the way to accomodate the new brake pads. Now that they are wearing back down, it is getting to the warped spot in the caliper and starting to stick.

Jun 25, 2009 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

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Apr 08, 2009 | 2000 Ford F150 Flareside SuperCab

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1998 f150xl regular cab brakes grab


I had a similar problem with the front disc brakes .... had to replace the calipers. In high corrosive conditions the pistons on the calipers can become contaminated and not operate smoothly ... they stick. The same thing can happen to the wheel cylinders on the rear. Try replacing the wheel cylinders on the rear (fairly cheep fix) and if that fixes them then the calipers would be next. Jim

Dec 18, 2008 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

98 caravan no abs


sounds to me if you replaced all of that than the power booster is sticking

Oct 12, 2008 | 1998 Dodge Caravan

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