I had to replace the brake master cylinder braket that the clutch and brake pedal connect onto due to breakage where the clutch cable gets fastened. I had to remove the hole steering colum by pulling it out from fire wall where it is connected. I disconnected wires from the steering colum. Trying to put steering colum back on wasn't as easy as taking it off. during installation I was turning wheel to get it into place and heard something snap(break) near the turn signal or steering lock mechanism. some plastic fell to the floor so I thought maybe it just won't turn of the turn signal after a turn......no big deal!!
When I connected everything back together and installed the battery and connected cables I thought "easy enough"
Well when I got back into the car I noticed the radio was on with the key in the ignition and then I put the key in and tried to start it and nothing happened at all.
None of the warning light came on and the car would not start.
Battery is full.
All fuses inside car are good.
all fuses(trasnparent color) next to battery look good too. the only ones I cannot check to see if they are bad are the grey colored box type fuses.
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1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.
4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.
5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.
6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.
7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.
8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.
9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.
10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT
1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.
2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.
3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).
4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.
5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.
NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.
6. Turn on the service filling machine.
7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).
8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.
9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.
10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.
11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.
12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.
13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.
14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.
15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.
The clutch master cylinder must have gone out, the seals in it have failed. The clutch master cylinder (next to the brake master cylinder) gives you hydraulic pressure so the clutch pedal can operate the clutch. You can buy a new clutch master, a rebuilt unit, or yours can be rebuilt with new seals. Save time and money and buy a rebuilt or remanufactured unit. Once installed, you bleed the system down at the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the transaxle.
Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
Follow one of the two following statements:
1. Engine does not shut down and remain start. (Clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch bearing defective - Replace all as a set)
2. Engine shuts down. (Clutch system is OK and does not require any repair).
Clutch Master Cylinder
The clutch master cylinder is located next to the brake master cylinder. A slave cylinder is attached to the release lever at the clutch. The two cylinders are attached hydraulically by tubing and hose.
A hydraulically operated clutch.
Take off the reservoir cover and remove the fluid from the reservoir.
Disconnect any wires connected to the reservoir or master cylinder body.
Disconnect the tubes.
Remove the nuts or bolts attaching the master cylinder to the vehicle.
Slide the master cylinder off. If it will move only a short distance but no farther, replace one of the nuts or bolts (finger tight) to support the master cylinder and then disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. After disconnecting the clip or pin and clip holding the pushrod to the pedal, try to remove the master cylinder again.
When installing a new master cylinder, it is a good practice to flush the cylinder with clean brake fluid. This is done to remove any debris that might be left over from the manufacturing process or chemical coatings that were used to protect the cylinder from corrosion. To flush a master cylinder, simply fill the reservoirs and the cylinder bores about one-third full with clean brake fluid, install the reservoir cover, plug the line ports, shake the cylinder to work the fluid all around, and drain out all the fluid.
Bench bleed the cylinder.
If the old master cylinder used a boot or hub seal, a new one should be installed as the master cylinder is being replaced.
Place the master cylinder in position, replace the mounting bolts or nuts, and tighten them to the correct torque.
Reconnect the pushrod to the pedal as necessary.
Remove the plugs or bleeder tubes from the outlet port as you connect the line. Do not tighten the line yet. Place a shop cloth under the line fitting to catch any fluid that may leak out.
Fill the reservoir about three-fourths full with brake fluid.
Have an assistant slowly push the pedal as you observe the connections a the outlet port. They will probably be leaking some fluid with air bubbles. Continue the pedal strokes until only fluid with no air bubbles leaves the connection.
At this point, tighten the connection with the pedal is being pushed downward.
Fill the reservoir to the correct level and replace the cover.
Reconnect any wires that were disconnected.
Check the brake pedal free travel and adjust it if necessary. There should be 1/16 to 1/8 in. (1.6 to 3.1 mm) of free travel before the pushrod engages the piston in the master cylinder
you most likely have a hydraulic clutch, which the clutch master cylinder is located on the firewall on the driverside close to your drivers side windsheild.it takes brake fluid to fill dot brake fluid will fill it properly. however if your slave cylinder on the transmission is leaking,this will require a replacement of the clutch slave cylinder. look for leakage under passenger side,,just under or below passenger side seat onto ground. recommend if you replace the clutch slave cylinder,you also replace clutch master cylinder located on the drivers side firewall at wind sheild.look under the car while someone pumps the clutch in and out,if you see brake fluid leaking under car onto ground or inside onto carpet at brake pedal,you have a bad clutch master cylinder. recommend you replace both slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. this will save you lots of time and headaches. thank you for choosing fixya.com
your clutch master cylinder is right beside your brake master cylinder. I would advise you to replace the master cylinder and the slave cylinder together. The slave cylinder is on the side of the transmission. The slave cylinder does have a bleeder screw on it after the parts are bolted in place fill with dot 3 brake fluid and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder until fluid starts dripping out. Then tighten bleeder then open bleeder and have someone push down on clutch pedal while the pedal is pushed down tighten the bleeder the release pedal. Repeat this procedure until you get no air and the pedal feels normal and you should be good to go. Good luck!
on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.
YOU NEED A HAYNES MANUAL BECAUSE IT WILL SHOW AND TELL YOU HOW TO REMOVE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.TO REMOVE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU HAVE TO GO INSIDE THE VECHICLE AND REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE UNDER THE DASH PANEL.YOU HAVE TO UNCLIP AND SLIDE OUT PIN SECURING THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL.AND YOU WILL HAVE TO UNSCREW THE MOUNTING BOLTS AND DETACH THE MASTER CYLINDER FROM THE FIRE WALL.YOU WILL NEED HAYNES MANUAL.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE OTHER THINGS BEFORE DOING THE JOB.YOU NEED FLARE OR INLINE WRENCH ALSO.
There are two types of clutch actuators. (Mechanical & Hydtraulic)
A. For mechanical type,- Check the clutch cable as
this could be cut from wear and tear. This is easy
to replace. You can find this connected to the
pedal and the clutch lever near the transmission.
B.For hydraulic operated - Check the level of the
hydraulic oil at the cylinder of the hydraulic
actuator under the hood. This actuator is
directly connected to the pushrod driven by the
pedal. If the actuator is leaking, you have buy
a repair kit (Hyraulic clutch repair kit for Ford
Ranger 1994 MOdel.) These items must be
repaired to activate your pedal.