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Scanners are just the better equivalent of code readers, but having live stream data functions so you can see real time sensor information displayed. There are a lot of good quality scanners, whatever your budget can afford. In the U.S., $200-$250, maybe a bit more or less, will buy a useful scanner. You will definitely need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) for all manner of electrical testing. Get a good quality one with low impedance properties, so the meter doesn't throw off your test figures. When you buy one and read the manual with it, you will understand what I mean. Not sure I can explain it properly. Get the meter and learn its functions and how to use it. There must be hundreds of websites that explain trouble codes. Just use a search engine-google that.
it might be your thermastate stuck close because it lets the collant to go into the engine chambers so if your thermastate is stuck is why it is over heating so you can take the thermastate out and test it yourself by putting it into water inside a pan that is on a stove to test to see if it opens up for you but also there are different thermastates out there that have different temperature ranges that you can put in place of that one so go to autozone they will explain to you which one could help you out the most.
The transmisssion in this car is computer shifted, have you had it tested for fault codes to explain this problem? Aamco Tranmission shops do this testing for free. I suggest you get the system tested as the 1st step in understanding the cause of the problem.
first check the temperature switch for failing closed. you can do this with a test light or ohmmeter. with the car cold, put one test light lead on the battery positive and the other on the temp switch terminal. If your light comes on, replace the switch. If the switch is not failed closed, recommend you replace the fan control module. According to autozone.com, your temperature switch is on the driver side, upper engine area, end of cylinder head, mounted in top of water outlet. The control module is probably in the engine compartment relay box by the battery. If you have questions or your setup differs from what I have explained here, please get back to me.
If you are not leaving lights on that means you have a battery draw.
You will need a test light to find a source.
Disconnect negative battery cable , connect one end of test light to cable and the other one to neg. battery post. If test light lights up - there is a draw.
Wait about one minute (for components to go on slip mode) and start pulling fuses out (just remember the place they come from) , the one that shut off test light is you problem , check everything on the curcuit for that fuse. Usually it states on a fuse box lid.