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no my answer, dont buy that $500 PCM yet.
the Gauge fuse , see bottom left, above. runs lots of things,
the FSM covers this, fully 100%
it runs the Flasher module, the ECM, the integration module (BCM like) that runs interior lighting and many things off the IM.
if the fuse only blows, while blinking , id inspect all 4 corner lamps
id check the wires there and then replace all 4 lamps. if you
dont know how to bench test a lamp. then just replace them.
Gauge , (funny huh) runs the Alternator, if it shorts, boom the Gauge fuse blows. as you can see finding a short is not easy,
you never said how soon it blows. so,,,,, if quicky, id run it
with no alt connected. rear plug IG Plug pulled. do so for no more
that about 15minutes, the battery will drain fast (no head lights please,or fans for heater, no electrical things on, flashers on for sure.)
there are 30 pages, to see all IG1 power feed wires.
i didnt try to find them all.
but that is my point, if you dont have the book or alldata.com login
then all this is pure wild speculation and guessing.
I did this for a living, so ,know the ropes.
once I have this information, i then use my ammeter to find it.
see a area MASTER here, do that.
in your case you know what fuse blows. (stated wrong)
and with that , fact i can attach my ammeter, and the pull
modules to find which one has the active short.
in the case if the blinker module is passing excessive current
I then drop off the lamps loads from the flasher module
if that shows that my short is gone then the lamps are shorted.
i can even measure all 4 lamp wire feed to read this short with my ammeter and my CB.
using this. http://www.fixkick.com/tools/25100B.jpg
this the red fuse below is GAUGE. the module on the right is the Flasher module.
I don't know if you've fixed it yet but check the shifter position
switch (usually located below the shifter). Just unplug it, replace the
fuse and see what happens. The problem is either in that switch or in
the wiring between that switch and the gauge cluster.
doesn't work you'll need to get a wiring diagram for the gauge cluster,
pull the cluster out, and clip the wires for the shifter position switch
one at a time until you clip the one and the fuse doesn't blow anymore.
take out the plastic panel on the drivers side in the cargo area. tucked inside the body where the taillight wiring is you will find about 6 to 8 wiring plugs. disconect all of them (dont forget to mark them as you disconnect each one. put in a new fuse and turn on the ignition. start connecting them one by one, you will hear the fuse blow when you connect the one thats bad. it should be either the rear window defroster or the rear wiper. it may sound like a lot of work, but it's pretty simple. hope that works it did for me.
try changing the headlight switch,I had a similar problem only mine happened after I accidentaly short out when I was replacing the horn pad and for some reason when I replaced the headlight switch the problem went away.
TO TROUBLE SHOOT ELECTRICAL YOU MIGHT NEED TO TRY A GOOD BULB OF CORRECT TYPE INTO SOCKET IN BRAKE FIXTURE THEN ALSO MAKE CERTAIN THE REGULAR TAIL LIGHT ELEMENT IS GOOD REPLACE FUSE WITHOUT PRESSING BRAKE LIGHTS ON IF FUSE IS OK THEN TURN ON THE RUNNING LIGHTS SEE IF THE ONE IN QUESTION IS COMING ON IF IT IS AND THE FUSE IS OK THEN PRESS BRAKE PEDAL AND SEE IF THE BULB LIGHTS WITH THE BRAKE ON ALSO THE FOUR WAY FLAHER IF FUSE IF STILL GOOD IT MIGHT ALLOW DASH LIGHTS TO COME ON MANY VEHICLES HAVE A SAFETY WAY OF LETTING YOU KNOW YOU HAVE NO TAIL LIGHTS BY ALSO TURNING OFF THE DASH LIGHTS.
Start by replacing your brake light bulbs. If it still blows the fuse, them your brake pedal switch. If it still happens then you have a shot circuit in your wiring between your fuse panel and your brake lights.