Question about 2002 Dodge Intrepid

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Steering wheel vibrates when i apply brakes. I have replaced rotors, calipers and breaks 3 times and the problem comes back after about 6 months or so. Any Ideas? Is this a flaw in design? are the breaks getting so hot that they are warping the rotors? I was told that when i come to a stop light i should not hold break on same spot ,That i should rolll a little bit so the break pad does not stay on same spot of rotor. that it can create a hot spot. Anyone ever heard of this ?

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Had the same problem, took the roters in to get grinded and the problem went away.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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Yes i have heard of this.check your tierod ends just to make sure they are good.But im sure its just those rotors warping.The next time u need brakes buy slotted and drilled rotors.they are pretty cheap on e bay.that allways fixs the problem you are having.The only other thing you can do if you dont want to upgrade rotors is. to keep the rear drum brakes adjusted.If you even have them.Come to think of it if you are having this problem with 4 wheel disk.then you might be having a problem with the combination valve. or the proportioning valve.But i think its just the rotors.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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What can i use to keep my breaks from sticking? i put on new break pads and they are still sticking.please help me.


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I have a 2004 alero and when I press on the brakes to stop at a red light or stop sign a vibration occurs and it's loud but when I put it in park it stops vibrating. What can I do about this problem?


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Left steer wheel vibrates at high speed and when brakes are applied


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Replace rear brake pads 2006 Chevy Impala


Hello, to replace the rear brake pads follow the following steps:

1. Lift the Chevy Impala with the jack and place it on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheels with a lug-nut wrench and set them aside. The lug-nut wrench can be found in the trunk of your Chevy Impala.
3. Remove the caliper with a ratchet and use a bungee cord to hang the caliper. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose, as the hose might break and cause fluid to leak.

4. Remove the brake caliper bracket from the steering knuckle with a ratchet. Set it aside.

5. Remove the break rotor from the hub. The rotor might require force to be removed; if it does, use a hammer to hit the rotor in the center, where the lug studs are located. Take care not to hit the studs.

6. Remove the new rotor from its packaging and use brake cleaner to remove the grease from the rotor. Grease is applied on the rotor in the factory to inhibit rust during storage.

7. Install the new rotor onto the hub.

8. Install the caliper bracket with new brake pads onto the rotor and fasten it to the steering knuckle. Use a ratchet to tighten the bolts.
9. Open the master cylinder reservoir so you don't break a seal while compressing the brake caliper.

10. Compress the brake caliper with a C-clamp, so that the caliper can fit over the new brake pads. Install the caliper by securing it to the brake caliper bracket with a ratchet.

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Jul 19, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

I need instructions on how to remove the rotors and replace the front brake pads on a 2004 mazda 6.


Instructions Things You'll Need:
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  • Jack stand(s)
  • Wheel chock
  • Turkey baster
  • DOT 3 brake fluid
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  • Impact screwdriver with Phillips head bit
  • Hammer
  • Bungee cord
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  • Shop rag(s)
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  1. Step 1 Park the Mazda6 on a flat paved surface. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires and open the hood. **** out half the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster and discard. Replace the master cylinder cap securely.
  2. Step 2 Break the lug nuts loose on the front tire, using the breaking bar and a 21-mm socket. Raise the left quarter panel first with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the left front frame rail. You can lift the right side too or just do one side at a time. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel when elevated.
  3. Step 3 Pry the two plastic caliper slide bolt covers off with the flathead screwdriver and remove the caliper slide bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off the pads and rotor with the screwdriver and support it to the coil spring with the bungee cord so it does not dangle by the brake hose. Compress the piston of the caliper inward using the C-clamp until the piston bottoms out in the caliper casing.
  4. Step 4 Remove the pads from the caliper anchor by prying them out gently with the screwdriver. Be sure to memorize how they were positioned in the anchor so you can replace them the same way in the event you're not replacing the pads as well. Remove the caliper anchor bolts using the ratchet and a socket. They're going to be extremely tight, so be prepared. Remove the caliper anchor.
  5. Step 5 Locate the retaining screw on the hub face of the rotor. Use the impact screwdriver in the reverse position with a Phillips head bit and strike the end of the screwdriver with the hammer. Remove the screw. Remove the rotor. If it is stubbornly stuck to the hub, strike it a few times with force on the plated fins of the rotor.
  6. Step 6 Spray the new rotor with brake clean and be generous to clean off the oil coating that new rotors have on them so they will not rust from condensation in the air while they were in storage. Clean both sides and wipe dry with a shop rag. Place the new rotor on the hub and make sure to line up the retaining screw hole in the rotor to the hub. Replace and tighten the retaining screw.
  7. Step 7 Replace the caliper anchor and bolts and tighten tightly. Replace the pads into the caliper anchor in the same manner you removed them. Replace the caliper over the pads and rotor and replace and tighten the caliper slide bolts. Replace the plastic covers.
  8. Step 8 Replace the wheel and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts so they are flush. Lower the Mazda6 and torque the lug nuts alternately with the torque wrench, set at 80 foot-pounds and the 21-mm socket. If you raised both sides of the front axle, wait until you've replaced the right side rotor, otherwise repeat Step 2 through Step 8 for the right side.
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2 Answers

I get a vibration in my stearing wheel when i press on my breaks when going above 60mph.


From what you have described the disc rotors on the vehicle are distorted and could be fairly badly distorted if they have been subjected to excessive temperatures at any time.

This will translate into a pulsation in the brake pedal - especially noticeable when you brake at speeds above about 40mph. At 60 mph - as you found - you cannot miss it. At higher speeds you will also get some vibration through the steering wheel once you brake.

The disc rotors will need to be examined and removed from the car for machining or total replacement. They may be too worn or distorted for machining as the manufacturers specify a minimum safe disc rotor thickness. Disc rotors don't last the life of the car and replacing them is a fairly routine exercise and not usually expensive except on many European cars and on many prestige brands.
The brake pads should also be replaced at the same time unless replaced recently and have minimal wear. The operation of the brake calipers should also be checked.

If you had a wheel balance problem on the car (rectified with a decent re-balance of both front wheels) you would find a constant vibration through the steering wheel at a given speed usually above about 45mph. What you have complained of is vibration only upon braking plus a pulsation through the brake pedal whilst braking.
However if you are also noticing a constant vibration through the steering wheel at or above a given speed when cruising you need to have the front wheels re-balanced and the front suspension and steering checked for problems.
If you have uneven tyre wear you will also need to have the front wheels re-aligned. If a front wheel alignment was not done on the car in the last 12000 miles it will need a wheel alignment in any event.

Cheers
Sean

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3 Answers

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Sounds like a warped break rotor. Needs breaks.

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