I have a 1984 F-150 truck, 4-WD locking hubs, V8 302,...(5.0L i believe), the truck would turn over but would not start. the battery os good. Someone told me to test the wires to the distributor especially the coil wire and i did not see any spark when i tried to start it and lifted the wire up slightly. i tried sparking it with a screw driver. i feel this was a terrible mistake because the the vehicle will not even turn over now...truck is dead as door nail. what now? did i mess up the computer components. i checked for fuses under the steering wheel and they all were good. HELP!
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What you want to do is engage the system and then kill the engine. This will work with electric hubs if you leave the keyswitch on.
With the front tires off the ground, a locked hub should turn the c-v joint and try to turn the front differential. If the transfer case is locked in 4x4 then the front driveshaft should be locked too. The differential is caught in the middle. It may have spider gears which can break, but if the c-v joint turns something is not connecting inside the front differential.
If the front hubs are Vacuum activated, you should be able to apply Vacuum and do the same test.
There are a number of different hub systems so this may not work but it has worked for me on both auto and manual locking hubs. On a flat surface without traffic. Put the trans into neutral, shift the transfer case into 4x4, shift the trans into reverse and back the truck up 15-20 feet. Completely stop and shift trans into drive. See if this has locked the hubs in. If not, you can also try following the same instructions except shifting into 4wd low. Sometimes the hubs need a "bump" to get them to slip into place. Keep In mind that if the 4 wd low select works, you need to shift it back into 4 wd high before continuing! When taking the truck out of 4wd to 2wd, I recommend the same, shift to neutral, select 2wd, back truck up, shift back to drive and check. Its entirely possible that your hubs need maintenance (they're often overlooked) but hopefully this will get you going. Please let me know if thus worked or if I can offer other suggestions. Good luck!
this 1993 voyagers rear brake durms are two pieces, make sure there are no lock clips over the studs which i dont think there are on this 1993, these drums sometimes are tough to remove off the hub, spray wd 40 around the hub and take a hammer and hit drum in area where the studs are, no hit studs, you will need to turn and hit, hit it hard so it breaks free, you will see it break loose from hub,i have had some that i haf to remove the center hub nut and bearing to remove the drum, then with drum and hub off spindle i then removed the drum from hub, hope this helps.
could be a faulty actuator on the tranny. If you have push button, then that very well could be your problem. Take shifter out of 2 wd, then back in 2 wd, then drive backwards about 5 feet and see if it desengages. Do you have manual or auto-locking hubs? Make sure they are unlocked.
its not a snap ring in the sence that there are no holes for the pliers.use a small screw driver and something to hook it with. it sits inside the of where the hub slides in. after removing the hub might not easily come out. WD-40 and a large pair of channel locks may be required. by the way the hub itself is not vacuum operated. its engaged by a sprag unit that works when power is supplied by the axles rotating.
There are two parts to the auto-locking hubs. Inner and outer. Both of them have small tabs on each of the 'cams'. Chances are, they are broken off on the outer hub. When you clean them up real good, you can see them. I believe when the axles turn the outer hub, the inner and outer cams push against spring pressure and lock the unit to the wheel hub. These hubs will break when engaged at higher speeds, especially on a dry tar road.