Question about 2005 Buick Rendezvous
I lift up but didn't remove retainer and I removed wing bolt but could not slide the unit foward.
I think any dealer would have these on hand; if my memory is working right, these did have to be a specific class and will need to be torqued carefully to avoid stripping the female threads.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
You will find two bolts on the back side of the caliper that go into two small rubber boots. Likely the bolt heads on yours are torks head and need appropriate socket to remove. You need to retract pads in order to easily remove caliper from rotor. Retract further with a large "c" clamp before re-installing pads. Lube slides that attachment bolts go through (I use white grease for this) before re-installing them. Be careful to not cross thread bolts when putting them back in.
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Posted on Mar 25, 2009
There is a o-ring around the injector assembly,it is probably stuck to the upper plenum.Try gently prying on both sides of upper plenum at same time.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
This will take some time, but really not that difficult. First, get a small section of two by four and jack. You will use these under the back of the engine to "rotate the engine forward". This means to shift the engine forward so that you can reach the bolts and such on the back of the alternator (and spark plugs if you want..
Next, remove the air hose from the air filter box to the engine, you will have to remove a couple of cables to to this.
Remove the bolts from the engine struts (those wishbone looking things on the front of the engine). This will allow the engine to move.Then, remove negative battery cable, wrap in electrical tape. Put car in neutral and use the jack and board (see above) to shift the engine forward.
Now, remove the electrical connections from the alternator, there are two, one forward connected by a bolt and one plug in on top. There are three bolts on the alternator. One in the front going across and two in the back. You can just feel your way with your hand, there is enough room to get a socket wrench back there.
Remove these three bolts and shift the alternator toward the firewall and just let it sit, you still will not be able to remove it yet.
Next, remove the idle pully. It has one bolt, very easy. Set aside. Then remove the three bolts that hold the alternator frame to the engine. There are two on the side, near where the idle pulley was and one in the back, near where the two bolts you took out of the alternator. The whole assembly should easily come out now, including a metal section under it which is there to allow you to hook chains to the engine. Remove all these.
Now, you have to remove the three screws holding the power steering pump. They are accessed through the holes in the wheel of the power steering pump. You will have to run the pump, feeling with your fingers, until you find each bolt. Now that the unit is loose, you have to look down behind the unit to find where the power steering lines run down. You will see them "locked" into two rubber sections which hold them in place, simply pop them loose from there and you can now move the whole power steering unit. DO NOT REMOVE THE HOSES FROM THE POWER STEERING PUMP. You can remove the low pressure side if you want, its is the right one with a rubber section connection to the pump. Move the whole pump, with lines, to the left and down. You should be able to slide the pump out now. Some have recommended taking out the black electrical block to the left above the battery and/or the window fluid container, but I didn't need to.
Put new alternator back and reverse the process. Time consuming, but not technically difficult.
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
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