Question about 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

11 Answers

1995 jeep grand cherokee started sputtering

We changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump but that didn't work. There is plenty of spark.

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  • thelwiley Mar 10, 2009

    If the jeep sits for a little while it will run a little but then dies.

  • thelwiley Mar 10, 2009

    1995 Jeep grand Cherokee limited. It started sputtering so I changed the fuel filter and I changed the fuel pump. That didn't work. There is plenty of spark . If you let it sit a little while, it will run a little bit but then dies.

  • thelwiley Mar 10, 2009

    I didn't say anything about the alternator light....

  • thelwiley Mar 10, 2009

    It does start back up after it dies. The longer i wait before starting it back up, the longer it will run before dying

  • thelwiley Mar 10, 2009

    Where is the fuel pressure regulator?

  • thelwiley Mar 10, 2009

    There are no codes on the computer

  • thelwiley Mar 10, 2009

    When it dies, it starts back up and dies

  • thelwiley Mar 10, 2009

    Can anyone tell me where the fuel pressure regulator is? 1995 jeep grand cherokee limited. It was sputtering, then I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump, Didn't work. There is plenty of spark. Jeep starts then dies . It will start back up and then dies again.

  • thelwiley Mar 11, 2009

    Please! There is no vacuum leak, there is no dash light that incates a CO2 sensor is out, can anyone out there figure out what the problem is with my jeep?

  • thelwiley Mar 19, 2009

    Thanks for your help...the Jeep is fixed. It was actually that once the fuel pump and filter were changed, the computer had to be reset by placing the neg battery cable on the hot post for 60 seconds to accomplish the reset. The security system also decided to lock us out at the same time, so that was reset as well. All is fine now,

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11 Answers

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  • Jeep Master
  • 19,396 Answers

If you have no codes, the problem is unlikely a sensor.

Check the fuel lines, starting from the fuel tank , where debris can reduce fuel circulation.

Inspect the fuel pump, or if you have two (second one will be on fuel lines near to the tank) inspect both pumps.
If a pump is working , but clogged, this wont be returned as a code by the ECU.

Check also for injector problems and do an injector cleaning , even if this is usually detected as a misfire error code.

If this had been helpful , do not forget to evaluate the solution.

Many thanks.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

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  • Master
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Hi there
have you checked out the master fuse under the hood to see if it is blown or you may have a short somewhere in the system also have you bled the fuel system

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • Michael Thomas
    Michael Thomas Mar 11, 2009

    Hi there again

    hey if you remove the pos bat cable then take off the map sensor off the cehical and clean it really good than replace it back in the vehical and put the battery cable back on and turn the key to on (do not start though) leave it there for 45 seconds than start the vehical and see what happnes

    my dodge truck was doing that and i removed the map sensor and and cleaned it up[ and knocked all of the dirt off of it and replaced it and and reset it with the key on and after i started it i had no more problems you may just want to try thatok

    good luck

    mike

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  • 110 Answers

Hey hey another jeepy. i have a 97 what engine do you have in yours? the 4.0 actually uses an injector that is the fuel pressure regulator per say. it is on the fuel rail manifold. have you changed the relay in the fuse box? i had something similar happen to me. do you smell a strong fuel smell at start up or when it dies? have you had the output of the coil tested? this test will test strengh and arc of the coil to make sure that it is not heating up and losing signal. try these for me if you haven't already and ill check a few other things out and let you know. let me know what you find out so i can help you further.thank you

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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Hi, What do you mean by plenty of spark? Do you mean it fires fast?  or it miss fires (vehicle rocks as if its gonna die while engine is on)
If the later case, you may have to replace the spark plug(s) and or the cables. Get it to a mechanic, they would do a compression test, before replacing the spark plugs/cables. I hope it doesnt cost much. Replacing cables alone would cost <60 bucks...

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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  • Master
  • 8,619 Answers

Hi

Please follow this to remove the fuel pressure regulator and then reinstall it as this will solve your issue for sure.

1.Remove the throttle body assembly from the vehicle as outlined in this section.
To prevent spring pressure release, hold the regulator housing against the throttle body while removing the mounting screws. 2.Remove the three retaining screws that hold the pressure regulator to the fuel body.
3.Disassemble the pressure regulator assembly. Note the location of the components for reassembly. Discard the gasket.

To install:

4.Install a new gasket and the regulator assembly. Tighten the three retaining screws.
5.Install the throttle body assembly as outlined in this section.

Please revert for further clarifications.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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  • 277 Answers

Fuel pressure regulator is in the tank, in the pump assembly .
On 1995 and 1996 models the fuel pressure regulator is integrated into the fuel pump assembly.
in 1997 models On the fuel pump module, in the tank. 
These vehicles only run a one-line fuel system meaning that the fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel sender--fortunately on these vehicles they combine the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter into one assembly--which is changeable, but the fuel tank has to be lowered to be accessed--I assume the vehicle is starting hard when cold--common problem with these vehicles--if taken to a dealer mechanic, they will probably tell you replacement of the entire sending unit is necessary--which is not true-- 
please rate the session.if helped .thanks.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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  • 320 Answers

Probably the upstream o2 sensor (could be downstream). or the other possibility it  could be a vacuum leak.
just check out .that will solve your problem.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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  • Master
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It could be a cam sensor or a map sensor .is there any codes in the computer .if so what are they?and there is no reset of the fuel pump!as someone suggested does it start back up after it dies if so how long does it take ?I can fix this so talk to me it might take a few questions though.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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  • mike loshbough
    mike loshbough Mar 11, 2009

    your fuel pressure should be 37 psi while running this is 66chrgr

  • mike loshbough
    mike loshbough Mar 11, 2009

    was the engine light on before?

  • mike loshbough
    mike loshbough Mar 11, 2009

    if code 11 replace the crank sensor

  • mike loshbough
    mike loshbough Mar 11, 2009

    how about a comment back work with us here. thanks

  • mike loshbough
    mike loshbough Mar 19, 2009

    can you keep it running by keeping foot on the gas?

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  • Master
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I believe that the keep alive memory KAM has memorized how to mix fuel and air with the light on, which indicated O2 sensor failure - there are two, upstream and downstream. When the sensor kicks in or isn't as fouled and begins to send a 'healthier' signal to the computer, the computer must relearn the parameters, after compensating for a bad situation. I would replace the correct sensor and get it done.

The alternator light was a reaction to stumbling, weak alternator performance and momentary discharge, not a problem.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Mar 11, 2009

    I really apologize for offering you a different solution as something else is running in my mind while i was writing this.



    rregarding pressure regulator position -



    On the end of the fuel rail at the front of the engine. The rail holding all your injectors. It has a vacuum line running to it. Its not very big.



    Hello, it sounds like you have spark but no fuel up to the injectors. When you first turn your ignition key to the on position, the fuel pump performs a two second prime. If you put your ear to the tank you should hear the pump kick on. If not your probably looking at replacing the fuel pump.

    If you have a gauge Normal operating pressure should be 339 kPa ± 34 kPa (49.2 psi ± 5 psi).

    FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST - ALL ENGINES WITH PRESSURE TEST PORT
    Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump Capacity Test, Fuel Pressure Leak Down Test and Fuel Pump Amperage Test found elsewhere in this group.

    Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should immediately (1 - 2 seconds) rise to specification.

    All fuel systems are equipped with a fuel tank module mounted, combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is not controlled by engine vacuum.

    WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CONSTANT FUEL PRESSURE EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. BEFORE DISCONNECTING FUEL LINE AT FUEL RAIL, THIS PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED. REFER TO THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE.


    1. Remove protective cap at fuel rail test port. Connect the 0 - 414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge (from gauge set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail
    2. Start and warm engine and note pressure gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be 339 kPa ± 34 kPa (49.2 psi ± 5 psi) at idle.
    3. If engine runs, but pressure is below 44.2 psi, check for a kinked fuel supply line somewhere between fuel rail and fuel pump module. If line is not kinked, but specifications for either the Fuel Pump Capacity, Fuel Pump Amperage or Fuel Pressure Leak Down Tests were not met, replace fuel pump module assembly.
    4. If operating pressure is above 54.2 psi, electric fuel pump is OK, but fuel pressure regulator is defective. Replace fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. .
    5. Install protective cap to fuel rail test port.

    If you are satisfied, do rate this as Fixya,

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  • Master
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Check to see if the fuse is not blown. also, make sure the wires are good and connected tightly. check the fuel lines for any obstructions as well.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Mar 10, 2009

    depending on the model, you may have to reset the fuel system in order for the new pump to activate itself. this reset switch may or may not exist in your vehicle.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Mar 11, 2009

    I think you just may have some water in this tank that is caught up in the lines. i would try some water remover like STP gas treatment or techtron. this could be your issue.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Mar 11, 2009

    I have another solution. your injection may be malfunctioning as well. check your injectors to see if they are working properly.

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  • 300 Answers

Check out the starter relay.and the distributor cap.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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SOURCE: Jeep 1995 Grand Cherokee won't

You probably disconnected the battery to install the new fuel pump. The alarm system will act in this manner after reconnecting the battery. Put the key in the door and lock the door. Then unlock the door. Try starting the vehicle now.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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