Question about 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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96 s10 misfire, has new plugs, new distributor cap, new rotor, plug wires were changed last year, they're bosch. New fuel pump, new filter, new coil. will idle fine, then with no sputter it will sometimes die then take forever to start back like its flooded out. While driving if i try to hold it at a speed it will misfire but if i really gas it it runs fine. What in the world is the problem???

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  • 5 more comments 
  • skaterguy4ch Mar 10, 2009

    how can i check the injectors? is there a way to test them or would i just have to buy a new injector spider?

  • skaterguy4ch Mar 10, 2009

    Its not a completely dead miss. its random and from what i can tell its not the same cylinder either. it will idle fine like i said before but when i give it a little gas especially in gear it wants to cut out. i have the 4.3 vortec 5 speed manual. in neutral i can give it a little gas and i won't cut out as bad. but when i put it in gear and give it a lil gas it will misfire at random. When i'm driving down the road it misfires but when i let off the gas it stops misfiring, kinda confusing..

  • skaterguy4ch Mar 12, 2009

    I usually run bosch, but you say AC delco will make a big difference? I recently found out that if i unhook my map sensor it will stop cutting out! dunno what that means but i'm leaving it unhooked. at least now it doesn't die randomly at stop lights

  • skaterguy4ch Mar 14, 2009

    k thanks!

  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    had all hoses replaced, new distributor, transmission checked,
    new coil,and it still keeps stalling, will idle then just die, start right back up ,idle for a while then die please help

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    engine is running smoth, drive or idle. code is on , new plugs and wires in, after clearing code comes back again

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    cuts out like its out of gas even though its not i have changed the fuel filter wires plugs and coil packs after car dies if you let it sit 10 to 15 mintes it starts back but does the same thing



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Check the injectors. They are really bad about leaking on the 4.3's.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Eldric Venne
    Eldric Venne Mar 10, 2009

    You can pull up the upper intake which will reveal your spider. If there is gas inside the intake, you have a leaking bad injector. Is it a dead miss, or a random miss. The injectors also have problems stopping up. Do you know which cylider it is misfiring on? This may be more helpful in determining the bad injector.

  • Eldric Venne
    Eldric Venne Mar 11, 2009

    Did you put the AC Delco plugs, wires, and cap and rotor? That will make a huge difference also.

  • Eldric Venne
    Eldric Venne Mar 12, 2009

    Sounds like you may have a bad map sensor then. It could be reading to high or low. AC Delco is what it has from the factory, and usually the best thing to put back in them.

  • johnny May 21, 2013


  • johnny May 21, 2013

    has new sensor from dealer



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for now I assume the coil checked out fine and gave a strong steady uniform set of sparks. ----------------------- With a fully functioning coil, you're left with the distributor cap and rotor arm - the distributor cap comes off with 2 screws at the left and right sides of the cap between the HT Connectors - unscrew them - (note the original orientation of the distributor cap before you pull it off to aid refitting) you can now pull away the cap from the rest of the distributor.
INSIDE the CAP there are four "poles" round the outside, and a spring mounted contact in the center - make sure the poles are clean and shiny with only light markings at most, if they are blackened, whitened ro rounded and pitted then replace the cap - ford dealers or local part shop, most shops will stock both the rotor arm and distributor cap for around £15-30 - phone around for the best deal.
Still on the distributor is the rotor arm, this pulls off - it has to be pulled dead straight off the distributor shaft - once you have the rotor arm off you can inspect the metal contact on the top for general dirtiness and decay, it "should" be shiny brass/copper in colour. if it looks pretty bad, pitted or blackened/burned- - get a new rotor arm from ford dealers or from local part shop (not expensive)
Once you are sure of a clean or new rotor arm and distributor cap you can try the engine again - hopefully the misfire is gone.
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we are here


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