Question about 1993 Toyota T100

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Intermitant mis now full time

Did the easy stuff wires plugs rotor and cap, didn't help, checked compression twice to make sure of the readings #1=152 #3=161 #5150 #2=155 #4=148 #6=155 P,S,I. any Ideas what to try next ?

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  • fafulone Mar 11, 2009

    I was trying to trace vaccume hoses, do you have a way to tell me or can I buy a vacumme gage and check it at some local point??? thanks for the feed back, I notice there are a zillion vacumme hoses and some diaphrams, just checked by putting my finger in some of them but I'm not sure how strong it should be, I also tapped on all the diaphrams and for a mile or so it ran fine, but I don't know if tapping the diaprams had anything to do with the short lived running normal



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Intake gaskets may be bad vacume leakl.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009


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Have you checked the distr cap for cracks??

If plug is oily looking on brand new plug I would suspect worn rings, which would also explain the high PSI. (Motor job in the wind) Especially for 300K.

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My 94 Toyota 4 Runner does not start.3 weeks ago it stopped working, would not start in the morning but would start later in the day. we took it to garage and they told us that Alternator and batt. are...

Make sure you have the timing right. Best way is to take #1 spark plug out, stick your finger in the spark plug hole, and turn th engine until it starts to blow your finger out. Now you're sure it's on compression stroke. Then, trun the engine by hand to get the timing mark set to zero. Now, take your distributor cap off, and make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 spark on your distributor cap. Where ever the rotor is pointing, is #1. Check rotor direction of rotation before you put the rest of the wires on.
You still may have to turn the distributor a bit once you have it close. When you start turning it over, turn the distributor slowly one direction and then the other until it starts.
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No spark from plugs. changed plugs, rotor and distributor, cables, and primary coil.

i would start with the basics- did you make sure you followed the correct firing order when you installed your new plug wires? when you changed the cap/rotor did you notice any track marks inside the old cap? was the old rotor burnt/corroded? ive got a 97 ram and the cap is a b*tch to get to being buried in the back, could you have inadvertently moved the rotor off its timing mark? mis-aligned the crank sensor when installing your new cap? i would recheck how the cap was installed, just because you were able to position it proper and tightened down the screws doesnt mean that you didnt accidently pinch the wires on the crank sensor, or turned the rotor off its mark. also when pressing on the plug wires on the cap did you look for the "1" mark on the cap? this is your reference point for firing order. im not sure these are you problems, but rechecking your work to make sure something wasnt knocked off-kilter, or wrong plug wire placement would confirm the problem lies other than what was replaced. i hope this helps

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