2001 S-10, Blowing "ECM Batt" fuse after running for about 30 min
I was on the road all day, shut down the engine, drove for about 30 min. and the engine shut off while driving. Found and replaced the "ECM Batt" fuse and the truck cranked and ran for another 5 miles, then blew the fuse again. This is a 20 amp fuse, so I installed a 30amp fuse to get me home (another 30 miles). It worked and the next day I drove about 45 miles before the 30 amp fuse blew. It took an another 4 fuses to drive 3 miles to get to work. Now I'm stuck. What's causing the fuse to blow?
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Re: 2001 S-10, Blowing "ECM Batt" fuse after running for...
That fuse feeds power to fuel pump relay circuit that feeds pump could be defective pump,or damaged circuit wires that shorts out! and not a good idea to put higher fuse in circuit could cause more damage to circuit! but i know when your stuck, u do what it takes,so inspect circuit related to fuse,
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Did you check the crank sensor wire, it may be hitting the hot exhaust. does the wire going to fuel pump have a problem and is shorting out. ECM 1 ..... then there are 5 components that this fuse feeds
2- all injectors
4- electronic ignition control module
5- ignition coil - check for a bad wire in these areas. Hope this helps.
Sounds like the computer has short in it. You can get a computer at Oreillys auto parts for around $140.00. You will need to call the part store and order the ecm and give them some info on your engine, so the replacement ecm can be programmed for your vehicle.
Check the fuses, I had one a while ago that kept blowing one of the ECM fuses. There are 2 ECM fuses one also sends power to the fuel pump too. Do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition switch to on? Just turn the key to the "on" position, not all the way to start, you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for about 3-5 seconds. I think it takes a 15 amp, I showed the owner which fuse it was and it would blow occasionally. One day it blew one right after another so he put a 30 amp in, he was out of 15's. I told him that was not a good idea. Anyway, that fixed it he drove it home and put a 15 amp fuse back in it, it's been good ever since.
You may have a bad revers solenoid. Check the fuse and look for any of the fuse to be bad like the transmission fuse. Best thing to do is get the blazer scanned at Auto Zone free of charge for any DTC codes that may be affecting your transmission's performance. Try this, place the ignition to the run position and pull the ECM(BATT) fuse out for 30 seconds and then place it back in. Start the Blazer, it may stall but let it. Just start it again the ECM is just relearning the engine and transmission, let it idle for 1 min and then go for a test drive. This should reset everything in the truck's ECM like the day it was first started and any DTC code will be new and active. Do not add any additives like lucas transmission fluid repair, that will just make it worst. Any additive that may the transmission thicker will make the fluid retention more making the shift solenoid stick causing shift conflicts. Good luck and keep me posted. No revers is ether a bad solenoid, bad PCM signal, or broken sun gear.
You can clear it with a scan tool, or it will clear it self after 3 start up's if the ABS issue has been addressed and will clear from it's history after 100 start up's.
The other thing you can do is to clear the ECM for every DTC codes. Place the ignition key to the run position and pull the ECM (Batt) Fuse from the fuse box for 30 sec. Then place it back in, wait 10 seconds and start the Tahoe. THE ENGINE MAY STALL, BUT LET IT. Just start it up again and let idle for 1 min then go for a test drive. The ECM is relearning the whole engine and transmission, if there is any issues the MILL light will come on and the codes will be new.
If the light does not come one then there is no DTC codes and the Tahoe is clean like the day it came off the assembly line.
Good luck and hope this helps.