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Re: Need to change 3.8 engine
Jim,I have taken out a dozen or more of these and the best way is to drop it out from the bottom.You need to lower the eng. and trans. out with the frt. cross member ,then pull the eng. and trans. off the cross member and seperate the two.If you need more info on the process,let me know .John.
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Thats going to be a tricky pull. you can actually do BOTH methods fro pulling that motor. Which ever is easier for you would be better.
As far as the rod knock. Rod knock simply means that the rod bearing has spun and is no longer a smooth surface. potentially, you could pull the motor and replace just that rod and bearing if the crankshaft was unaffected. the majority of the time, more work needs to be done. I think in this case, it may be cheaper to remove the motor and replace the crank and bearings. A replacement used motor will probably run about 1k if you can find one at a yard.
On the front of the engine, center, next to/below oil filter, has 3 wires bolted next to each other. A little easier to reach from bottom than from the top. Mark your wires, ie: don't get them mixed up when replacing. Easy Job.
you need to establish if its bottom end or top end. if bottom end big end bearings have gone then its a big job ( easier to replace engine ) and if its top end ( cam ) then its a mornings job. big difference. hope this helps
follow the bottom radiator hose towards the engine and you will see a the t stat housing that has 3 10mm nuts on it. you will need to pull the top and lower air filter box to make the job a lot easier and it is a pain.
On most Jeep radiators, the drain is near the bottom of the right side radiator tank and usually difficult to reach and, most don't work right. I generally remove the lower radiator hose at the radiator. It does the same job, quicker and easier. Don't do this when hot, and be ready for a lot of antifreeze to drain fast. Re-fill slowly with engine running and heat on high. Make sure to wait for level to drop when thermostat opens, then finish filling and topping off.
out of the top by the way these japenese take out motors are quite a good investment. Although word up change front and rear seals. then make sure they have the same timing belt and gears as the engine that is being replaced.
With all due respect for the opinion - I suggest you will do it better working from the underside for the 3 on the rear of engine.
Four points in your story motivated me to try from the underside (and I just finished the job without any hicups):
- mechanics suggested from the underside
- 130 lb sitting in the engine compartment will likely damage or crack something
- removing the distributor should not be needed
I drove the car with the front wheels on a pair of inclines to get more clearance underneath, secured it, then squezed from the front between the wheels. A good thin flurescent light can fit from the bottom up to help you see what you're doing.
The boots from the spark plugs I removed without much effort, then with fingertips I felt the exact place of the plugs. I fit a short 3" extension over the socket, then squeezed the handle and started turning. All theree came out without problems (before removing completely I also squeezed the extension pipe of a can of compressed air and blew air to clean around the plugs).
You need to "see" with your fingers and remember how the plugs are inclined to fit the new ones, but otherwise is just a little exhausting that you have to be a contortionist and find a good position (something to raise your head while working underneath, like a cardboard box would be useful).
So the bottom line is that it works as well from the bottom and don't have to remove anything else.